cleaned, then RAIN!
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Posted by CH355 on 24 August 2015 - 11:42 AM
cleaned, then RAIN!
Posted by old_n07 on 22 January 2014 - 09:04 AM
Updated DIY guides index for MK4 Golf and Bora, post forum move Jan 2014
I've been back through all the pages in this section and compiled the index below from scratch and tidied up where necessary, from page 12 back most of the links and pictures are dead and I've edited the thread titles to reflect this.
The links below had live pictures at the time of posting, any links that had dead pics have not been included in this index.
|Configuring com port for VCDS in Windows||Link|
|Software Mods||Remote Windows activation||Link - External Link|
|Miles to empty||Link|
|Coding||Cluster swap (immo3 to Immo3)||Link|
|Cluster swap (immo2 to immo3)||Link|
|Key matching with VCDS||Link|
|Key remote coding without VCDS (for unlocking the car)||Link - Link 2|
|Steering angle sensor caliberation on ESP equiped cars||Link|
|ESP defeat on R32 and 2wd 6 speed||Link|
|Other Web Links||Vortex MK4 guides||Vortex Link|
|Golf GTi forum DIY guides||External Link|
|Pocket rocket VW guides (click on the small pictures under the Golf)||External Link|
|Foxy's web site (Web archive)||External Link|
|My Turbo Diesel MK4 Guides||External Link|
|BMAC Vags - various DIY videos||Youtube|
|How to get the best from your cars charging system||Link|
|How to understand a little bit more about your car's charging system||Link|
|Releasing wires from connector blocks using a paper clip||Link|
|Lighting||Bulb types for the MK4 platform||Link|
|Manual aircon switch bulb replacement||Link|
|Joey Mod - Bora headlights||Link|
|Joey Mod - Golf headlights||Link|
|Bi-xenon - Bora headlights||Link|
|Bora OEM xenon adjuster repair||Link|
|OEM Golf xenon early to late model ballast upgrade||Link|
|Fitting EI wire to FK angel eyes||Link|
|Hella Celis voltage regulator replacement||Vortex - Link 2|
|Coming home \ auto lights||Link|
|Changing rear courtesy lights to LED bulbs||Link|
|Rear courtesy light removal||Link|
|LED Door Projectors||Link|
|W8 light install||Link|
|Wiring loom for bora vents and W8 light||Link|
|DIY W8 style light mod||Link|
|Spraying W8 light black||Link|
|US Side marker retro-fit||Link|
|Bora boot light upgrade||Link|
|Adapting a T5 neo wedge bulb for rear roof light||Link|
|Fitting HID ballasts into OEM xenons||Link|
|Puddle light mod||Link|
|Interior bulb types and quantities||Link|
|Interior door handle LED mod - Foxy's guide||Link|
|Wiring||OEM Xenon wiring adapters and rheostat mod||Link|
|Heated seat loom installation||Link|
|Heated recaro seats||Vortex Link|
|Kufatec heated seat loom installation||Link|
|Wing mirror memory function for power adjustable seats||Link|
|How to wire Audi A3 seats into a MK4||Link|
|Aircon fan fix||Link 1 - Link 2|
|Repair wiring for reversing light||Link|
|Retro fit an immo3 CCM, alarm siren and sensors into immo2 car||Link|
|Upgrading the big 3 on MK4||Link|
|Fit a USB socket into the cigarette lighter socket||Link|
|Emergency unlock switch||Link|
|Retro fit wiper stalk with MFD control||Link|
|Cruise control - retro fit||Link|
|Cruise control - 1.8T additional loom||Link|
|Auto diming mirror DIY install - Foxy's guide (with pictures)||Link|
|Audio||How to upgrade the stereo||Link|
|How to Get Rid Of Unwanted Noise From Your Car Hi-Fi||Link|
|How to choose and install car stereo amplifiers.||Link|
|How and why to change your mk.4's speakers||Link|
|How to choose And Design The Right Subwoofer Box.||Link|
|£2 aux input for standard CD changer setup||Link|
|MFD install and CD changer in glovebox||Link|
|VW CD changer lens cleaning||Link|
|Wheel arch sub box||Link 1 - Link 2|
|OEM stereo removal Video||Link|
|Parrot hands free install||Link|
|MK4 Door locks module repair||Link|
|Aftermarket central locking install||Link 1 - Link 2|
|Boot Popper install||Link 1 - Link 2|
|Boot lock micro switch replacement||Link|
|Door lock barrel service||Link|
|Boot handle lock cylinder removal||Link|
|Rear door lock removal||Link|
|Replace LED door lock cap||Link|
|Ignition barrel chage||Link|
|Ignition barrel lock cylinder change||Link|
|Ignition switch change||Link|
|Glovebox latch repair||Link|
|Pedals||Broken Clutch pedal repair||Link|
|Clutch master cylinder repair||Link|
|Brake pedal switch adjustment||Link|
|Instruments||Cluster LED colour change||External Link|
|Cluster removal||Video - Guide|
|Boost guage fitting (PDF)||External Link|
|How to get your boost guage to sit at zero||Link|
|Seats||Removing and dismantling the front seats||Link|
|Heated seat element replacement||Link|
|Fix your clunking recaro's||Link|
|Fitting recaro rear seats into an estate||Link|
|How to remove rear seat locking mechanism||Link|
|Seat airbag resistor trick||External Link|
|Windows||Window regulator repair||Link 1 - Link 2|
|Switches||Passat mirror switch retro fit||Link|
|Wiper and indicator stalk removal||Link|
|Headlight switch removal||Link|
|Interior trim||DIY leather steering wheel refurb for £3.20||Link|
|Leather steering wheel refurb||Link|
|Steering wheel removal||Link|
|Multi function steering wheel removal||Link|
|MK5 or 6 steering wheel install||Link|
|Front ashtray removal||Link|
|Centre console removal||Vortex Link|
|Radio cage removal||Vortex Link|
|Gear knob change||External link|
|Front door panel disassembly||Vortex Link|
|Spraying walnut trim||Link|
|Spraying radio cage trim||Link|
|Removing Golf sunroof trim panel||Link|
|Vinyl wrapping interior trim||Link|
|Front door strip down||Link|
|Recover centre arm rest lid||Link|
|Fitting a centre arm rest||Link|
|TT pedal install||Link|
|Beetle turbo gear knob install||Link|
|Dual A pillar pod install||Link|
|Glovebox repair||External Link|
|Heating system||Air conditioning recirculation motor replacement||Link|
|Aircon fan fix||Link|
|Bora vent removal||Link|
|Bora vent installation||Link|
|Bora vents and W8 light installation||External Link|
|Golf vent removal video||Link|
|Water Leaks||Sealing the window winder pannel||External Link|
|DIY fiberglass speaker pods||Link|
|How to install Dynamatt||Link|
Bodywork \ Exterior
|Painting||Guide to spray painting||Link|
|Caliper painting \ Jacking car||Link|
|Spraying the front end||Link|
|Colour coding standard valances||Link|
|Spraying front grille||Link|
|Colour coding Bora rear badge||Link|
|Colour coding bumper rub strips||Link|
|Fitting side skirts||Link|
|Doors||De-locking guide||Link - External Link|
|De-locking - when something drops into the door....||Link|
|Rear door "window triangle" removal||External Link|
|Wheels \ Tyres||Alloy wheel refurb||Link1 - Link2 - Link3|
|Steel wheel painting||Link|
|Polished lip refurb||Link|
|DIY plug punture repair||Link|
|BBS RC Centre cap dismantling||Link|
|Windscreen wipers and washers||Rear wiper motor removal||Link|
|Leaking rear washer repair||Link|
|Leaking rear waher pipe at C pillar repair||Link|
|Corroded rear wiper motor repair||Link|
|Fronter wiper mechanism change||Link|
|MkV washer bottle into a MKIV||Link|
|DIY de-wiper blank||Link|
|Mirrors||Power folding mirrors||Link|
|Removing mirror housing cap||Link|
|Auto dimming side mirrors||Link|
|De-badge the hatch||Link|
|Bumpers||Front bumper removal||Link|
|4 Motion Style tail pipe mod and valance install||Link|
|Boot||Wiring MK5 boot handle into the MK4||Link|
|Bora boot pop||Link|
|Lights||Golf rear light removal||Link|
|DIY all red rear lights||Link - Link 2|
|Polishing foggy plastic lensed lights||Link|
|Fitting a new aerial base||Link|
|Misc||Sunroof drains||Vortex Link|
|Towbar fitting||External link|
|DIY Wooden roof rack||Link|
|Oil change (extraction Method)||Video|
|DIY Smoke testing machine for vacuum leak detection||Link|
|VNT actuator adjustment||Link|
|VNT Turbo clean with Mr Muscle||Link|
|How to cure sticking turbo vanes (VNT 15 / 17)||Link|
|K03 to K03s installation||Link|
|N249 valve removal||Link|
|Finding boost leaks||Link|
|Ebay intercooler fitting pics||Link|
|Unit injector change||Link|
|PD Vac line simplification||Link|
|DIY N75 valve fix||Link|
|Cooling system||Coolant tank swap without loosing coolant||Link|
|Temperature sender change (PD)||Link|
|Tempperature sender chaneg (1.6)||Link|
|Tempperature sender chaneg (1.8T AGU)||Link|
|Thermostat change (1.6)||Link|
|Mishimoto radiator fitting to 4motion||Link|
|Porting and polishing||Link|
|Alternator||Fitting - V6 4Motion||Link|
|Starter motor||Remove stripped bolt on solenoid mount||Link|
|Starter motor grinding fix \ replacement||Vortex|
|Diesel||Bosch starter motor DIY refurb||Link|
|Fitting a stainless turbo back exhaust system||Link|
|Lamda probe change (1.6)||Link|
|Miscellaneous||Guide to polishing and porting a head||Link|
|MK6 Coil pack cable tidy installation on a MK4||Link|
|R32 DSG intake installation||Link|
|Secondary air pump repair||Link|
|Spark plug change 2.0 8V||Link|
|Crankshaft sensor change (4Mo)||Link|
|fitting an induction kit to a 1.6||Link|
|V5 Auxilliary belt change||Link|
|Petrol||1.8T PCV simplification and catch can install||Link|
|Pollen filter change||Vortex Link|
|Fuel filter change (no pics)||Link|
|1.4 + 1.6 Crankshaft speed sensor swap||Link|
|Forge 007P DV service||Link|
|Allard egr delete hose fitting||Link|
|Camshaft change PD engine||Link 1 - Link 2|
|Glow plug change||Link|
|Silicone TIP repair||Link|
|Audi R8 oil cap modification to fit Golf||Vortex Link|
Gearbox + Drivetrain
|Clutch||Change (2001 AJM Diesel)||Link|
|VW guide to gearbox removal and clutch change||Link|
|Clutch slave cylinder bleeding (syringe method)||Vortex Link|
|Drive shafts \ CV Joints||Inner CV joint inspection and boot replacement||Link|
|Outer CV boot replacement||Link|
|2WD drive shaft removal||Link|
|Drive shaft removal and service||Link|
|Gearbox oil change||Link|
|Haldex oil change 4motion||External Link|
|Short shifter installation 6 speed box||Link|
Chassis, Suspension + Steering
|Wheel bearings||DIY changing guide||Link - Link 2|
|Lower arms||Change the front lower arms and drop links||Link|
|Bushes||Rear axle subframe bush swap (to cupra R)||Link|
|Fit polyurethane bushes to dog bone mount||Link 1 - Link 2|
|Fitting powerflex bushes to wishbobes||Link|
|Wishbone bush change||Link|
|Steering||Power steering fluid change||Link|
|TT Quickrack install||Link|
|R32 Quickrack install||Link|
|Bora steering rack change||Link|
|Steering rack replacement||Link|
|Suspension||Coilover fitting||External link|
|Fitting lowering springs (pdf)||External Link|
|DIY rear camber adjustment without removing bearings||Link|
|DIY rear camber shims||Link|
|Lowering a Bora 4mo||Link|
|Front ball joint replacement||External Link|
|Fitting Audi 80 \ 90 top mounts to a MK4||Link|
|Anti Roll Bar||2WD ARB change||Link|
|4WD Front ARB install||Link|
|4WD Rear ARB install||Link 1 - Link 2|
|Fluid change \ Brake bleeding||Link - Link2|
|Front||312mm brake upgrade||Exernal Link|
|Front brake pad change - Elsawin guide||Link|
|Front brake pad and disc change||External Link|
|Rear||256mm rear brake upgrade||Link|
Rear brake pad + disc change (MK5 guide but the MK4 is basically the same)
|Rear pads and discs||Link|
|ECS Rear disc install (R32)||Link|
|Lines||DIY brake pipe making||Link|
|Braided brake lines||Vortex Link|
|Cables||Hand brake cable change||Vortex Link|
Posted by Imagewerx on 20 October 2015 - 07:33 PM
You lot are all speaking as owners or sellers of cars.How about if you were buyers instead and this information could help prevent you from buying a car that's got a lot to hide,and could affect it's safety? What privacy is contained in what a car failed it's MOT on and what mileage it had done at that time? I would quite happily let everyone in the world see that information about my car as it has no private details about me in it and doesn't implicate me in anything illegal.
Posted by Bobby_Singh on 14 July 2015 - 10:27 AM
14/7/15 - Introduction
Well it’s been a while since selling my Golf ARL. Those that are aware will know it made over 300hp from mixture of custom made parts when no 2260 kits were available.
So the new project car is Audi A4 3.0TDI estate (CCWA engine code) - 240hp model auto (TIP) - I didn't want a manual as the clutch limit appears to be 750nm. The auto box has reported torque limit of 800nm.
Decided on a B8 simply because the early ones suffered from injector failure causing engine damage and they don't come with the 2260 as stock.
Even though the car came with full Audi history the air filter is in a poor state looks like they've changed only the oil and filter the last few times.
First action plan is to service it soon and ask my cousin @ teamspb to give it a detail.
Here are some pics
Good news I don't think anyone has been in there
The famous 2260
15/7/15 – Read attempt
I had some time yesterday so attempted to read the ecu, but failed to get a read out.
Further digging has shown that software 0006 is boot mode only - basically ecu out job on the bench.
I'll tackle that on the weekend.
Fixed the Fuel cap motor wasn't locking (common problem so worth trying a bit of cleaner first) and the rear wiper jets weren't working.
20/7/15 – Boot mode & service
Carried out some more work on the car this weekend.
Removed the ecu and using a heat gun, blade and patience removed the bonded cover:
Got a successful read of all memories in case I ever need to clone the ecu
Next job service (air, fuel and pollen)
Yesterday got my cousin from (teamspb) to do the detail on the car
This week I'll prepare a stage 1 tune (with egr off) and see what it does - I've unlocked the ECU for obd tuning so will make revision uploading easier.
17/8/15 – Air box butterfly, Stage 1 tune & DPF pipe
Removed the air box butterfly
Also, started work on the tune.
For stage 1 I want to keep stock hardware including DPF and just remove EGR from software.
Even with the correct damos file this sofware it's not a easy task over 20k labels.
I was being limited to 620nm torq limit - but finding the limiter for this has resolved this issue.
Anyways after many revisions (all over boot mode) the MAF (hfm) is maxed out and remains flat lined after 3.5k
EGR is off via software
Nice punch in the midrange with 1.9bar and nice healthy IQ of 86mg
It’s nice to see the fuel pump is keeping and there is no pressure drop so far.
For stage 2 (DPF off) I will replace the MAP sensor with a 4 bar unit and change the tune for a maf delete (this will not be an easy job and will require many hours in calibrating fuel)
I will book a dyno slot this week and see what it does.
DPF delete will be with me soon
22/8/15 – Stage 1 dyno
Made it to the dyno today
Stock car with stock map:
Stage 1 tune with stock hardware (inc dpf):
Pleased with the result
Just a shame I went on such a hot day. My air charge temp were showing 80deg on the dyno runs. I need to confirm at what temp does the torque limiter kick in.
More digging into the map tomorrow.
Next fit the 3" dpf delete pipe, remove the egr and maybe the maf.
24/8/15 – DPF removed
Removed the DPF pipe yesterday and fitted the 3" delete pipe.
Performs much better during low and mid-range rpm now.
Still need to perform some logging to see if the N75 requires a tweak as the dpf restriction has been removed.
There is zero smoke which is great.
After logging I will establish if there is any scope for more fuel.
1/9/15 – S4 brakes, wheel bearing & 4 bar map sensor
Last week had to replace my front right wheel bearing, there was no play in the wheel and the outer bearing appeared fine.
On removal the rear bearing was running dry.
The bearing was seized inside the hub carrier and even broke my sliding hammer.
Managed to remove it though:
S4 Brake upgrade
Managed to get my hands on a full Audi S4 set up
330mm Rears (vented)
Pads looked in good shape so I made use of them and changed the brake fluid out for some ATE 200.
4bar map sensor
On the tuning side I've mounted a 4 bar map sensor now and will try more boost to see if 700nm can be cracked.
5/9/15 – Stage 2 (dpf off) dyno
Went for a second power run today
Peak power hasn't increased as expected (turbo cannot flow any more air top end) however nice healthy increase in torque and power is holding much better now.
Here you can see the difference between stage 1 and 2
Again air charge temp hit 86deg.
16/9/15 Wagner intercooler (competition)
Excellent quality item - Mark @ Wagner has opened me an account so can get these at discounted price if required.
Hopefully get this fitted on the weekend and then exhaust
Intercooler fitted & pressure drop test performed
Take off adaptor made for inlet manifold
For the turbo compressor side got a 57mm pipe, drilled a hole and fitted a nut & bolt with a hole in the centre. Then in the map made some changes to the dpf delta P sensor so that it be used for pressure drop testing.
Stock Vs Wanger:
Rubbish behind the old intercooler:
Shocked how well it was working with this behind it
Modified the mounting to get more threads on the bolt
Stock intercooler (and pipework) produced 226 mbar pressure drop
Wagner intercooler (and pipework) produced peak pressure drop of 210mabr
Throughout the rpm range the wagner produced less pressure drop generally - good news for the turbo.
I will now test with different pipe work to see if i can bring the pressure drop further down.
On temp side the difference is outstanding - peak temp showed 19 deg @ 4600rpm - impressive
While I was in a testing mode I monitored the exhaust back pressure and peak figure of 130mbar was seen, meaning I don't expect much of a power increase from the exhaust.
27/9/15 - Egr and Swirl flaps delete
It's been something that I wanted to do for a while, but I couldn't find any information on the internet about deleting the egr cooler - I didn't know what to expect.
EGR cooler removed :
Note the lower intakes which houses the swirl flaps also need to be removed
Here you can see the space generated:
Once removed I noticed the Cooler was plumbed into the block:
I could think of one solutiuon and that was to hack the egr cooler for the OEM fitting (at this point I really hoped my idea would work):
Cleaned up the lower intake:
Removed the swirl flaps:
Note the following bushes must be inserted back into the intake to support the rubber gasket
Made a EGR blanking plate for monitoring EMP
Looks like this now:
I need to re work the breather pipe which will make a little more space around the turbo
For now I have some DTC to kill
Managed to remove all DTC's now so no more MIL
Done EMP test and recorded 3.8bar peak
Its near double of boost so pushing any further on this set up is a no go at the top end.
Exhaust order has been placed.
I've also noticed since doing the EGR cooler delete my water temp only gets to 90deg in town driving.
I will need to re use the coolant inline thermostat which was on the stock set up.
10/10/15 - Inline coolant regulator
So since removing the EGR cooler the coolant temp has been dropping to low as 50deg when on the motorway.
This regulator use to be mounted on the EGR cooler:
So from the egr cooler I cut out the mounting and also cut the 16mm pipe coupler to weld together.
But the internal bore size is alot bigger on the regulator mounting:
Ended up using a reducing 90 and it worked a treat
Updated the lighting on the car from Aurora Bulbs (great service). Fog light, interior bulbs, boot, and reverse.
63mm intercooler pipe (turbo to intercooler)
First getting the stock (50mm pipe) out is a pain - I ended up cutting it at muffler:
I wanted to see what was inside any how
After some cutting I had a rough design:
However, the 63mm pipe was too big for the Wagner silicone hose. There was a section in the hose that accepted 57mm, so ended up with this:
Tapped some threads and fitted a NPT nipple to measure pressure drop rather than using a hose with a hole.
The silicone hose which i used is very close to the exhaust manifold so have ordered some heat wrap and will need to fit a support bracket to hold the pipe up.
In other news my exhaust is ready
Great quality item - custom made 3" with V band connections and ear friendly big mufflers.
2/12/15 - 3" Exhaust fitted
Well I fitted the 3" exhaust during the weekend and to be honest it looks great and sounds great. But I'm not sure I can live with it.
I'm basically doing a lot of miles and I always wanted a stealth but fast car.
Here is a audio (need headphones really)
It does look good:
As for performance well its the best I've seen with zero back pressure at 4.6k rpm and only 45mbar in the midrange.
Im sure its old age but I want my car to be silent. So I'll be fitting the standard system back which was giving me 130mbar still not so bad as the 2260 has to deal with at least 500 to 600mbar with the dpf.
In the future if I find the back pressure is too high then maybe I'll fit a active exhaust valve.
I've also now found the limit of the CP4.2 pump - I can get 97mg in the mid range with 81mg @ 4k before rail pressure becomes a issue.
Still smoke free which is great - time for another dyno i think.
December 2015 - Bosch CP3
Christmas break fun..
Next task was to source a fuel pump that would be able to supply enough fuel without causing rail pressure drop.
After considering different Bosch pumps - I went with Bosch CP3. The pump is fitted to some early V6 models.
I managed to get all the required parts from a car that was being broken. Pump, gear, bracket, belt etc
Got M12 adapters for the fuel lines:
With some luck the bracket mounted nicely, but I had a issue with finding a gear that would keep the belt tight
All mounted up but the M12 90deg was a little tall
Ended up purchasing OEM feed and return
Finally got the CP3 working after some more tweaking in the tune.
Now I can inject close to 100mg in the mid range without rail pressure drop
The first generation of V6 that used the CP3 pump only had 0.5 bar feed pressure so with 4bar feed pressure we have a excellent start.
Well I knew it would be only a matter of time before I fitted a bigger turbo.
So it all came together in the Christmas / new year break.
To be honest I had the turbo before I had even purchased the car. It was a nice unit and when it came up for sale I just had to have it.
The turbo itself started is a borg warner John Deere s200v. As stock the turbine is really healthy as 56mm ex but only 44.5mm ind compressor wheel. Lucky for me the unit came modified with a 70/51mm CW. The compressor housing also came with anti surge modification already done.
Parts collection - Oil return, feed, compressor housing outlet, flange, V bands etc
The green cable is the turbo speed sensor
S200 Vs 2260 compressor housing
Turbo unit removed
Custom oil return
Custom oil feed
Modified 3" downpipe
Modified the Y collector and welded the S200 flange directly to it.
Y collector also housed the EGT probe (cut the boss from a broken 2260) and emp adaptor.
The actuator set up was a very fiddle job - getting the angle and throw correct in relation to the turbo lever took a lot of hours.
But finally a VCDS output test could be done with no errors
Ignore the TIP it was something just to get the car running.
After deleting the EGR cooler water pump, temp sensor and rad outlet sensor I noticed the lambda sensor wasn't behaving itself.
Turns out the rad outlet sensor is used some how to make the lambda sensor to function.
That meant I had to plumb the sensor back in.
Bi Turbo MAF
As the stock MAF sensor was maxed out at 900kg/h the options were map based smoke limiter (time consuming to get right) or bigger MAF.
For a cleaner tune decided to go with the A6 Bi turbo MAF rated upto 1400kg/h so nice improvement over stock.
The housing is bigger over stock so custom 90mm TIP was needed, but on a plus note the MAF fitted the stock air filter perfectly.
Looks pretty good
420hp / 830nm
As you can see the power is still going up at 4k but egt was already 900deg so kept it safe.
Maybe more rail pressure next.
February 2016 - Turbo Speed sensor
As the s200 has a default speed sensor it would be crazy not to make use of it.
According to BW they say no more than 152k rpm.
Looking on the turbo shaft there is a flat area which would mean 1 pulse per turn - confirmed by using a scope.
I decided to use the EGR input as in VCDS there is a raw voltage display. After some testing on the egr i found the ground, 12v and the input.
Using a input signal from my phone @ 2.5khz i calibrated the voltage shown in vcds to 4.5v which is approx 150k rpm.
Here are some pictures of the home made pulse to voltage convertor
Melted the OEM EGR plug to expose the pins:
End result shows the turbo has rpm of approx 145k so still some more scope left
I've also calibrated the voltage so the coil light flashes when we get overspin - I've been trying to get the car to limp with a certain voltage/shaft speed is seen, but this is more difficult that expected.
February 2016 - Exhaust manifold pressure sensor & Rail sensor
Its been on the to do list to add an EMP sensor that can measure more than the stock deltap sensor, managed to source a 6 bar sensor from a Renault.
However, they don't sell just the plug on its own so plumbed the wires directly and fitted superseal connector.
Now tuning spool is easier with emp:boost logging
As the injector limit has been reached causing high egt's after 4k, the workaround is increased rail pressure - currently the M12 stock sensor does not read more than 2000bar.
It turns out the rail end has bung that can be removed for M18 rail pressure sensor and sealing surface is perfect:
Target is 2200 bar rail pressure and then back to dyno
March 2016 - Dyno
2200bar rail pressure and more fuel:
April - Santa Pod 12.4 @ 111mph
Took Class J
Here are some video's:
Note this run was done with a 2.8k take off and this results in 4.5secs to 60 with a 3k take off I have seen 4.1 secs so I feel this time can be improved upon.
Also, the run was done with full weight, half tank of fuel so around 1.8 tons I would say.
Posted by Aaron Phipps on 23 September 2016 - 03:32 AM
Posted by Gti Fly on 25 January 2016 - 10:52 PM
Posted by HBryant on 24 June 2015 - 07:42 PM
Well. Here's my story.. It's a long one so I hope you have time, try not get bored!
Yes. It's a 1.6 8v mk4 golf. But it's my 1.6 8v golf and before you judge it, and what I have done, you should probably here why I have spent the money and time I have on it.
It's family. Literally. In May 1999 when my golf first got released from the factory, this is when my grandad bought it, brand new.
He owned my mk4 all the way up until 2006 when he got the new mk5 Gti. When he got this he handed the mk4 down to my mum, who didn't need it as she had another car, therefore she passed it onto my dad.
During its time with my dad it never got looked after, my grandad serviced it every year so it was in very good condition for when it got handed over. Though this didn't last long. My dad unfortunately isn't one to care for things, especially cars, so my mk4 was abused for just on 9 years.
In these 9 years it was NEVER ONCE SERVICED. It got what it needed to pass an mot and that was it.
In 2012 it blew it's headgasket and leaked oil. This never got fixed. So from 2012 to April 2015 is had a failing headgasket and major oil leak, though, not once did it fail.
Despite how badly treated it was, this inside, and out, it never failed. Not once has it broken down, or been on a trailer, it's always kept fighting and doing what it needed to do.
Eventually in 2014, my dad no longer needed it therefore it never went through its next MOT and was sat on my drive rotting away, until, I came along.
In September 2014 I broke up with my boyfriend of 4 years which literally destroyed me, but not only did I lose that but I lost my polo which I had been restoring for 2 years with him.
Because I lost it, I decided I should have the mk4, so I spoke to my mum and dad and they agreed. So, it was then mine.
Weirdly enough I had always wanted a mk4, not sure why but there is something I always loved about them, and weirdly, I ended up getting one!
So, as of September I started focusing everything I had on it. All my money, over time at work I used to grab with both hands to fund it.
I had it serviced, I cleaned it out and gradually began to build it up.
Instead of going through what I did step by step, I'll write the list below of all the work it's had done up to this present day:
Down pipe and cat
Sportex cat back
Air filter, pipercross panel
Brakes all round
New rear brake hoses
Track rod ends
Cv boot left outer
Seats and door cards
Lights front, rear and side repeaters
Gearbox oil change
Oil change x2 in 2015
Drivers hub and bearing
All rust repaired (barely any), treated and I fully repainted it, yes with a roller.
Yes, that's a lot. But, it's worth it and despite the stress, the tears and the problems, I would do it all again.
Unfortunately my grandad never got see the golf get saved, he did pass away with it rotting on my drive, as even I at the time didn't know I would end up with it.
So, what I have done with it, was not only for myself, or the car, but for him, I hope that he looks down on me and what I have done and approves, though, I doubt he'd like the modifications! Us car people just can't not modify!
I did have the car nearly there but unfortunately on the way home from CumbriaVag this year, which was its first show, the car did break down for its first time and needed trailered home Scotland. Unfortunately I didn't handle this well, I'm still not.
Not sure what's wrong with it currently, but it's getting stripped soon and hopefully find the root of the problem.
I'll be doing everything I can to save its real heart, don't care for the money. You can't put a price on family.
It's done over 187k miles, yes it's slow, yes it's old, yes it doesn't have a turbo. But it's my high mileage, slow, old, non turbo and I want nothing else than to have it running happy.
I was 4 years old when I first sat in this car, I'm now 19 and I'm driving it and it was the first car I drove after passing my test. It taught me to be a better driver, its looked after me and I'll never let it go and I'll do whatever it takes to keep it running.
When it does die I'll get it another engine so it lives on. Probably make the old engine and ornament. I certainly won't scrap it.
So yeah, that is my story.
I've included a lot of pictures below, old and new, from start to finish.
There's pictures of me with it somewhere when I was little so when I find them I'll add them in.
This car means everything to me, and when people say things like "it's slow" "hahaha it's a 1.6" "engine change it" ... I just laugh. They don't understand, you can't just "change" your family.
My silly little mk4 means the world to me, and Im grateful to have something of such sentimental value, which I can look out my window and see, drive, work on and throw every second of my time and every penny looking after it.
It's my world. Laugh if you want. Everyone has something that makes them happy and proud, for me, it's my mk4.
If you're interested in following my progress with it daily then add me on snapchat at car_girrl or follow me on Instagram at car_giirl
All my updates go there. I'll add to this story and build as I start stripping it, hopefully to restore it and back out on the road. If not, as a last resort, "Blue" will be having a much younger, healthier heart transplant.
If you're a true car enthusiast, this story will hopefully be able to reflect your relationship with your own car.
Enjoy the pictures step by step, starting from standard, to not so standard, to full on repaint and new wheels. Not every step is included but I tried to include the most drastic changes.
************************************** 16 September 2015 update **************************************
I said I would update this when I knew more and started stripping it. I did update my other sites (instagram,facebook,snapchat) but haven't had time to properly sit down and update this thread till now.
As I have stated above after Cumbria VAG this year my engine did seem to "blow" out. I got it transported home and kept it locked away in my garage until I had sussed out a plan of what to do with it. At start I thought I wouldn't get it back as I had no way of being able to 100% do it all on my own so I was very close to giving up and breaking it, then my friends stepped in and offered me a hand.
Thanks to them and their time and effort we managed to start breaking down my car. We took apart the engine and after 8 hours of hard work we got the whole top end off. On first glance I couldn't see anything that was wrong, it wasn't until the whole head was taken up to Matt Shannon (MKS Performance based in Aberdeen) that we found the cause of my engine failure. I turns out the garage prior who did my head gasket change did the WORST possible job ever. The head wasn't skimmed, there was a high possibility the head bolts were not undone or done up in the correct order causing the head to warp horrifically, to get the old gasket off it appears the head mating surface was SANDED down. There were scratches EVERYWHERE. Not only this but nothing was cleaned so they valves were choked in carbon and filth and so were the piston heads. Then it looks like the gasket was put on and it all put back together and left. Not only this but during the work being done on the head it was found that were not 1, or 2 but THREE small pieces of plastic (obviously broken off from the cam cover) was just lying at the bottom in oil, any of these pieces could easily of been swallowed up by the cam at any moment. All of this tragic work is what caused my engine to blow its valves. Unfortunately I had no idea any of this horrific work was done until when we took the engine apart ourselves.
Now, my bank is about £800 lighter and 7ish days of hard work with the help of my friends I have a much, much healthier engine.
Work done during this rebuild:
*WHOLE HEAD STRIPPED AND REBUILT.* Of which included: Thick skim due to the scores in the head. 10tho iirc. Then heavily pitted valves lapped back smooth and leak tested.
Timing Belt and Tensioner
Temperature Housing Gasket
Rocker Cover Gasket
Piston heads and engine block cleaned
Throttle Body Cleaned
New Spark Plug Leads
Coolant System flushed THOROUGHLY.
New coolant and oil.
All sensors cleaned.
Full vagcom scanned to only find one fault being the Cam sensor.. so that is still waiting to be fixed as of right now.
Also new top mounts.
A lot of time and effort was put into this engine when most people would have given up. The majority of people I know told me to put a new engine in it, whether that of been a standard 1.6 replacement or a 1.8t conversion.
I decided to not and to spend what I had to and could to try and give this engine another chance. So I/we did.
It's now done almost 2,000 miles since its rebuild and hasn't missed a beat yet.
The other night I also hit a new milestone of 189,000 miles. Only 11,000 off of the massive 200,000 milestone not many cars see to reach.
Words can't describe how nice it was to be able to drive it again, and to me driving it again now. It's indescribable.
Since its been rebuilt as well we managed to reach our deadline and get Blue to the final shows for me this year, that being Cleanfest in Fife, Scotland and also VW festival down in Leeds, England.
Thats the end of the show season 2015 for me and I will be spending this winter making lots more changes and to hopefully have a much more show worthy car for next years show season.
It such a great feeling to know that Blue is alive and kicking again for hopefully a lot longer.
Attached is a before and after photo of the valves and the head.
I have also attached a photo of how it looks now, featuring Slains Castle in the background!
Thanks for reading!
Posted by Imagewerx on 20 June 2014 - 05:01 PM
The like button makes people lazy,instead of saying "Ay oop lad,thee done reet gud with yours car",they just hit like instead.More people respond this way,but it means less posts.
Posted by xJay1337 on 05 December 2013 - 12:13 AM
I wrote this for another forum but thought I would share it here too...
Edit: Tabs kindly changed the posting limits for me so i can share it directly on here
It doesn't cover WHAT products to use but (more importantly) how to use what products you do get.
Hopefully it helps someone and reduces the whole "how shall i wash my car" thread we occasionally get
This is going to be an introductory guide into the wide world of detailing. It's a good long post so maybe grab a brew. I know having read it back it's a bit all over the place but it can be difficult to write about such a large subject in an "easy" way.
despite there being a pretty good guide already people are still asking loads and loads of questions.
I don't feel that the other guide went into enough depth about procedures and actual methods, rather giving the broad strokes to get you going, rather than the nitty-gritty information you need to go from a weekend car cleaner to someone capable of detailing.
It's so long I broke the forum trying to add it as one post so I've had to split it up.
Let me firstly say I am NOT a professional detailer. I would consider myself pretty clued up and good and what I do but compared to people such as Kelly at KDS or Paul Dalton, I'm a complete idiot.
I'm just some guy who has taught himself by reading, trying things out, watching videos, talking with professionals etc. Basically ANYONE can get to where I am if they want to. The key is not to get overly concerned about what you're using and not to worry and act on every little teeny question that may crop up. In most cases it is fine
If you think I know what I'm talking about trust me, compared to some people I am a complete idiot.
What is detailing actually
Well personally I feel detailing is an art form. It's about taking something and making it beautiful in it's own right. It's about seeing something and making it happen.
Ultimately, detailing is a higher form of cleaning, where particular attention is paid to areas that wouldn't otherwise get a look in. Door hinges, door shuts, window trims, right through to the rubber window seals, wheels and arches. As per the name, the devil is in the details..
As part of the detailing process paintwork is corrected, refined and perfected, this can be done by hand but it is incredibly hard work - we tend to let machines do the work (I will come back to this later).
How does this differ from the traditional valet
Time, attention to detail, methods used, etc.
Valets, whether in a man with a van or in a supermarket car park or abandoned petrol station forecourt, are more concerned about CLEANING the car rather than protecting/enhancing/restoring the finish of the vehicle.
Valets GENERALLY (and a rule of thumb here I am speaking broadly and do not wish to offend any decent valeters) work to numbers, they want the most amount of cars done in a given timescale for a given cost. They use cheaper, more mass produced products and buy these in huge quantities.
Many used sponges for such a long time but now they move onto wash mitts. However these wash mitts are dirty and old, often being used until they are in pieces. Many get dropped on the floor and then straight onto your paint.
These ones are some of the worst. They use 5L of water max, and tiny little microfibre cloths. It's basically a bucket of grit and water that they then wipe across your car.
Mainly found in supermarket car parks, they offer "EPIC MICROFIBRE CLEANS" from their mobile trolleys.. Some operate from old abandoned fuel forecourts.
Places similar to the pictures above often offer a "Valet service" for a few quid (often you'll get change from a tenner) . They spend 15 minutes on your car and then it's onto the next guy.. you don't even need to get out of your car most of the time!
Often staffed by immigrants who have little concern for the paint and merely working at any job they can, they are the single biggest thing you can do as an owner to devalue your car IMHO.
When you are at home and you give your car a wash you cannot really call it a detail - People do and it's something which personally annoys me quite a lot, or when they break out a clay bar and a bottle of Autoglym Super Resin Polish and call it a "detail day". We're all guilty of it as we all do it, even me, but realistically a wash and wax, or even with clay, hand polish (with a filler based polish such as Autoglym Super Resin Polish) and any old tub of wax or sealant.. it's still a valet, just a higher end one.
There are some valet companies out there who do things properly, use the right methods, who may even use a machine to apply a filler based polish to a vehicle (saves time) and who do put decent waxes on - so don't hear the word valet and automatically assume terrible. Use your common sense :happy2:
What about the petrol station car washes or those ones in my local supermarket ? They seem great!
If all you want is a CLEAN car, yes , it will be clean. They do a thorough job often enough to give them their credit. The problem they have is with their products and methods, which are seriously damaging over a period of time to your cars paintwork.
It will look clean from a distance, and even up close, but under artificial lights or in sunlight over time the finish will become dull, hazy, with fine cobwebs, marring and other scratches in the finish, which no amount of washing or waxing will remove.
These are commonly referred to as swirl marks which are caused entirely by improper washing and drying. If you never wash your car you will never have swirl marks! :rolleye:
What causes surface defects, such as swirl marks, hologramming, micromarring?
Swirlmarks are caused by minute particles or dirt, grit, mud, stones, that get sandwiched between your cars paintwork and whatever material it is that you are using on the paintwork.
If your paintwork is completely clean and you take a completely clean microfibre towel, and wipe it on the paintwork, you would leave no marks (in theory anyway).
They happen because of the fine marks and scratches within your paint, and the light hits them and causes them to become refracted and rather than bouncing back straight into your eye, it gets scattered in every which way direction.
Here are some heavy swirl marks
This is caused by years of very poor washing techniques, sponges and chamois, water blades, dirty cloths, etc
As a car enthusiast you will wash your car, and everyone does it, and throughout the washing and drying process, swirls are inflicted into the paint surface. These are what I call little "love marks" , as part of caring for your care you will put little marks into it, tiny scratches. Normal wash marks are as below. This is from my friends Audi S3 that I corrected for him.
Hologramming is often seen following a machine polish, where an aggressive pad / polish combination which as a) not been "worked" properly (by that I mean there were not enough passes to break down the polish or that the combination used has in itself left fine scratches across the surface which would need refinement with a less aggressive compound. The below is the typical hologramming you see when someone puts something like 3m Fast Cut on an orange pad and does 1 pass at maximum speed. It's terrible.
Minor hologramming is often referred to as micromarring as well - basically microscoping "marring" (faults) to the surface have been created.
There are also other types of surface defects like sanding marks - where the panel has been sanded for painting and has not been sanded up to the right grit before the paint has been sprayed onto it.
They look similar to this.
You also have "Random Deep Scratches" also known as RDS which are often caused by brushing stones or articles of clothing against the vehicle, maybe with a branch or a button on a pair of jeans or similar. These are not caused by normal washing.
Here you can see some swirls and also an "RDS" (going horizontally about 3/4 of the way down the image, again from my friends' S3.
Okay that's great but what is the washing process? And what should I use?
Okay first thing you know you need to realise or understand is that most marks are caused by washing the car. To minimize this at the very least you need a Microfibre Wash mitt but I would recomend a quality lambswool wash mitt. Unlike a sponge, microfibre and lambswool mitts offer a passage for the dirt to be encapsulated within the fibres , rather than suspended on the surface and rubbed into your paint, like they are with a sponge (which absorbs water but not particulate).
So buy a wash mitt.
Then you have your shampoo. To be perfectly honest I'm not going to waste my time recommending shampoos when overall they are all about as good as each other. Anything WAX SAFE is fine. Stay away from all in one (wash and wax) shampoos. A good all rounder is Autoglym Body Shampoo Conditioner. It's also available in Halfords which is a bonus..
You also need to have AT LEAST 2 buckets. One bucket is full of your shampoo solution and the other is clean water.
TWO BUCKET METHOD
You dip into the shampoo (WASH) bucket, start working on the car from top to bottom, after half a panel or so you place your now soiled wash mitt into the clean water (RINSE) bucket, and rotate it on the grit guard. This is to help remove dirt from the wash mitt, before you place it back into the WASH bucket.
Ideally you would like 2 buckets each with a GRIT GUARD.
I would recommend two buckets with 2 grit guards , HOWEVER that is up to you. If you only have 1 grit guard, use the grit guard in the RINSE bucket.
Pre Rinsing and washing.
Before we even start to clean the car it is important to work using common sense. Is the car only covered in a very light film of road dust from a few days of commuting in the dry? Is the car covered in dirt as you drove 200 miles in the pouring rain down muddy back lanes?
If the car is not really dirty and you're just cleaning it because you want to, I use one bucket and I have no problems. If the car is soiled then you need to use the two buckets and the grit guards to help prevent the scratches.
I would recommend using a snow-foam solution personally. Not everyone has a Snow Foam lance and a jet wash. If not for about 5-10 quid you can buy a perfectly adequate pump sprayer which you can use to help loosen dirt. There are a variety of snow foam and pre-wash products out there. Some are just pre-mixed and others have a variety of strength dependant on dilution ratios so pay attention to what each manufacturer recommends.
Personally I use snowfoam in a pump sprayer and I use Bilt Hamber Autofoam.
Wet the car as much as possible, either by throwing buckets over it or using a hosepipe/jet wash. Then use your snow foam or pump sprayer solution and allow it to sit for the prescribed time (follow the instructions of the product). Then jet or rinse it off before you start actually cleaning the car.
The aim here is to remove as much dirt as possible before we actually touch the car, and any dirt which does remain on the surface, has been "softened" (just like soaking a baking tray) for easier removal.
Now you can take your wash mitt to the car, work in STRAIGHT LINES, top to bottom. Don't ever do circular motions on paint, ever. Some people break the car up into 5, 10, 15, or even more sections but I just start on the roof on the drivers side, and then work along the cars length in a downward motion..Why complicate a simple process.
You can also clean your wheel arches. To do this you can use an All Purpose Cleaner (such as Autosmart G101 or Bilt Hamber Surfex) or a snow foam or pre-rinse solution.
You can also use brushes to agitate these areas
For example you can see here on my old TDI it's not a pretty sight
However after some cleaning and some agitation...
... Comes out much nicer
You can then protect these areas with a spray sealant such as 303 Aerospace Protectant or even WD40 or GT85 if you have nothing else.
Pay attention to the door shuts as well... not just the hinges but the furthest out areas of the door. These can all be cleaned and dressed (I will get to this later) as well.
After you have worked around the car it is not time to rinse off the vehicle thoroughly to remove any last remaining bits of dirt and the remaining shampoo solution.
Once this is done you may reach to your chamois or water blade and start drying the car - BUT DO NOT DO THIS.
Drying your car
The chamois and water blade are the two worst things to use. On glass you can use them but on the paint, absolutely no. This is because, as with a sponge, any dirt left on the surface has no where to go - it would be ground between the chamois/water blade and the paint causing scratches.
Use a quality Microfibre drying towel. You can buy these from £5 (for Kent Car Car ones) up to £30 for Chemical Guys ones. Honestly there is not much difference between them, I would buy a few Kent Car Care ones for daily use (use them three of four times until they start to lose their plush and then chuck them) and a few plusher ones for the more special details.
Ideally pat dry the paint (by folding the towel in half or quarters) and then dabbing it on the vehicle. You can gentley brush the towel across the surface but this does increase the risk of marring the surface.
This is true for ANY TIME use use a microfibre towel on the surface of the paint.
Remove the tags (they just pull out) and FOLD THEM IN 4. Every single time. THis is good towel management (you in effect then get 8 cloths from one) and means you're less likely to scratch the paint by applying loads of pressure on one tiny edge , as if you would when you scrunched up the towel.
How NOT to do it
How to do it.
Now this is a bit of a tricky one as some people do wheels first and some do them last. There's no right or wrong way to do it. Anyone who says their is a right or wrong way is an idiot. There is only one important take away.
Nothing that touches the paint should ever touch the wheels and vice versa, nothing that touches the wheels (which are invariably the dirtiest part on the car) should touch the paint.
When cleaning wheels you ideally want to use an acid free wheel cleaner.
Firstly jet/rinse the wheels down to remove any loose dirt. Apply your wheel cleaner of choice and go from there really.. take a little brush (I use an EZ detail brush and a variety of wheel brushes, as pictured)
I generally use a washmitt on the faces and the backs of the spokes and then go around the harder to reach areas, such as the lug nut holes, badges, corners and what not with the brushes. Or you can just use the brushes. The EZ detailing brush is great to reach the back of the wheels with. It very much depends on the finish or the wheel and the design.
If you have Iron X or a similar product, now would be the time to use it. Once you have cleaned the wheels, apply Iron X and allow it time to react. Normally on a cloudy day I would leave it 3 to 5 minutes. You don't want to let Iron X dry on as it becomes less than friendly then.
Once it has reacted again spray the wheel with your wheel cleaner and agitate with brushes once again, followed by a rinse off.
The reason you clean the wheel first is that IRON X IS NOT A WHEEL CLEANER. It is an Iron Contaminent removal product.
I would not personally use Iron X regularly. Maybe once a month, especially on sealed (waxed) wheels.
Now you've cleaned them all once they are ready to be rinsed down. Once thoroughly rinsed use a microfibre towel to dry them.
Decontaminating your paint
Your paint is out in the open and exposed to all sorts of crap. Over time these chemicals and compounds, such as tree sap, iron fall out, road tar and what not, become embedded within the paint and your cars paint feels rough, and yet no matter how much you wash the car little black or brown dots won't ever come off! Well that is contamination.
You may have heard about clay bars but these are not the first step.
You have a few other products at your dispoal that you would want to use BEFORE claying.
Firstly you would want to remove any road tar, glue residue or anything from the car. There are several products out there that do this but Autosmart Tardis is the best. However avoid it getting in contact with trims (like the GTI sideskirts). It will be fine if you rinse it off immediately but if you leave it, they may become faded and you will need to put some trim restorer on them to restore the colour.
Follow the instructions but basically apply this where necessary - often lower sills, around the wheel arches the rear of the vehicle as these are the areas which get covered in tar the most.
Then allow to react and wipe away with a microfibre cloth.
Here you can see some tar on a wheel being treated with a tar removal product.. It would be the same on paint.
Next you can use an Iron fallout removal product.
Iron is what I find personally gives the most gritty feeling on paint, as by it's nature the particles of iron are rough. They are also the hardest to remove. Clay will remove these but at greater risk of damaging the paint.
Some very clever people found a way to actually turn iron soluble and so Iron X was born. Other products are available but they do not often work as well, stick with the original and best IMHO.
ALL Iron fallout removers smell. This is because of the chemical. The less they smell generally the less effective they are. Iron X cherry is not a BAD smell but it's not exactly a field of roses. They do a Lemon scent one which has no foul smell at all.
What I'm trying to say is, it often smells. Deal with it. :surprised: :surprised:
anyway - Spray this liberally to the entire car and then allow it a few minutes to react. You would see any reactions leaving long purple lines down the vehicle. This is often best sent on silver or white cars.
Once you've given it a few minutes to react you need to rinse the car off thoroughly. If you have a jet wash and foam lance now would be a good time to use it once again.
Then you can dry the car.
Claying is what you would do after using a tar and Iron remover product from the surface.
Clay is used to remove bonded contaminants from the surface of the paint. People say clay does this by being sticky, which it is, but ultimately it's a fine abraisive. Think of it like shaving your paint, as you would shave your face. You're not really taking any skin (paint) off as such, just what is on and in the paints surface.
Doing so will remove any contamination that is bonded to your paint and it will reside within the claybar - As such.
When claying it is important to provide lubrication as the claybar has no pores to absorb what it picks up. It will grind them between the paint and the clay bar itself.
There are a variety of clays and nearly every clay out there, apparently, must be used with a CLAY LUBE.
THIS IS NOT THE CASE. It is ultimately a ploy by manufactures of products to make more money. You are completely fine to use a mixture of car shampoo and water (I use Fairy liquid to be honest here as if I'm claying the car I'm going to be polishing/waxing anyway)
I've used many clays and I keep coming back to Bilt Hamber stuff, it's very good value and doesn't break apart and leave a "bitty" feeling on the surface like some others *COUGH 3m COUGH* and is fine to use with water as a lubricant only (however I always use a shampoo and water solution).
I use a double action chemical resistant bottle to spray the lubrication onto the surface. This is amazing for claying as it sprays on both the trigger press and the depress (hence being a "double action" sprayer) meaning your hand doesn't get achey as fast!
I'd recommend everyone has something like this even if it's not a double action one. It's under a tenner.
If I am claying the car I will not bother drying it after washing , unless I am working outside and it's hot and would otherwise leave watermarks.
So take your clay (normally comes in a bar) and get a section of it, and form it into a patty that is big enough to fit across your 3-4 fingers (like in my picture above). They can be quite stiff at first but with some heat it will improve.
You do not want to hold the clay bar on your finger tips, rather you want it sitting how it is in my picture above - This is so you apply a more even pressure rather than putting all the pressure on your fingertips.. wet the clay bar and then thoroughly wet the surface of the area you are claying. Saturate it. You will be able to feel the clay picking up contaminants from the car as there will be some resistance and after a while of going over the area it will turn smooth and the clay bar will glide effortlessly across the surface.
You do want to apply some light pressure but you do not want to really press hard, let the clay do the work.
Keep spraying the area you are working to ensure proper lubrication. WORK IN STRAIGHT LINES ONLY. Any time you're touching the paint you want to only ever go in straight lines NEVER CIRCLES...
If you drop your clay on the ground then throw it in the bin and get a new piece. It will pick up dirt and stones that will damage your paint.
You will pick up a feel for it soon enough but as a rule of thumb every 1/3rd of a panel you want to stop and check the condition of your claybar to see how dirty it is. If there is contamination on it you'd want to kneed the clay and refold it again to reveal a clean side. Again you would want to work in straight lines top to bottom.
Again depending on how you are working, if it's hot outside (which is not ideal for washing a car anyway) then work a panel at a time, clay the panel, rinse it off and then dry it, move on to the next panel.
You can clay the glass as well.. clay works on any surface...
After you have clayed you may have some residue left from the clay itself, or your chosen lubricant. Generally I give the car a quick rinse down (if you have snowfoam then just foam it and jet it off) and then dry the car finally.
Then you're done with the decontamination of your paint.
Polishing your car
so now you've removed all of the contaminents from the paint you are ready to polish the paint.
There are a couple of different kinds of polish
You have what I call "filler polishes" - These are very very fine abrasives, on a scale of 1-10 (10 being like sandpaper and 0 being completely not abraisive at all) they are probably 0.5-1.
Products like this are PB Blackhole, Autoglym Super Resin Polish, Auto Finese Tripple
They are designed ultimately for use by hand (you can use them by machine I will get to this later) and you can use a microfibre towel or , ideally, an applicator pad (either sponge or microfibre.. I prefer MF myself). They come in all shapes and sizes and there's not really any that are massively different from another. I personally prefer either the large rectangular MF applicators or a circular one with a handstrap.
These do not "correct" scratches (correcting means permanently restoring the finish of a vehicle) with abrasives, instead they are more like glazes, using silicones and oils to "fill" in scratches on a temporary basis.
Here's a really terrible picture I made on paint but the point is clear enough
The scratches in the paint cause light to be reflecting in a less than ideal way.
You can see what the hand polishes do along with a wax or sealant.
Over time, after a few washes or over the case of a few months as the wax or sealants start to lose their bond with the paint, and your swirls come back and you are left at exactly the same position.
They are fine if you don't mind doing it every few months but it is not a permanent solution to be honest and is a bit of a half step.
Then you have actual polishes, compounds, jewlers polishes, which come in different levels of abrasiveness, from a wide variety of manufacturers.
Some manufacturers (like 3m....) are very filler rich with their polishes. If you use an IPA wipe down some swirls will return.
Some like Menzerna or Gtechniq P1 are silicone and filler free meaning the finish is permanent.
These polishes come in 2 types, diminishiing and non diminishing.
Non diminishing abrasives are pressure based - that being, the more pressure you apply the more the paint will be removed and the faster swirls and scratches will be removed.
Diminishing abrasives start off abrasive and over time through the polishing action, break down into much smaller particles.
I prefer diminishing abrasives personally. You may find different.
Firstly it is important to know why we decontaminate the paint before we start to machine it - because any debris, dirt, particles of iron, etc, can interfere with the process. At best these would just get embedded into the foam and cause no damage but in the worst case some dirt can get stuck between the pad and the paint and cause mayhem, basically grinding grit into your paint so you end up putting more damage in than you are getting out!
You can work polishes by hand but it's VERY hard work and takes ages, it's much easier to use a machine such as a DA or a Rotary. I am not going to cover genuine hand (correction) polishing
These permanently remove the surface defects by actually removing some of the paint. As you are basically removing paint by the process of erosion you should know how much paint you have, as it is IMPOSSIBLE to tell by eye. Anyone who says they "can tell" is talking BULLSH*T.
Firstly you need to be able to inspect your paint so the best tool for this is a SUN GUN.
This can be a really bright torch, phone light, whatever. However you need something really bright.
Phone lines are only really good on really dark cars and you get a very narrow angle of viewing (as the light power is quite weak)
The best thing for the money is what's called a Brinkmann Dual Xenon which is what I have.
It is a rechargable flashlight where you can adjust whether there is one or two bulbs. It charges up from a US socket (adaptor) or from your cigarette lighter which if you're a traveling detailer or valeter it can be charged while you're driving about.
This is to help you spot the swirls to begin with. This is very important both from a "diagnoses" point of view, that being you are assesing how bad the paintwork is and also when you are in the process of actually correcting the paint, an easy way to verify your progress and ensure you're actually getting the results you want.
Swirls are based on seeing fine imperfections in the paint at many angles. Therefore a stronger light is good so you can move around and see more clearly. It's possible for example, that you may remove a scratch when you look at it from one angle but when you look at it from another it's there clear as day. This is where a sungun and/or strong light source help you. Being handheld it's easy to move about and get a much better view as well.
You really need a paint depth gauge (PDG) too, which measures the remaining paint.
Some actually tell you how much paint you have based on remaining colour coat and remaining clear coat depth (You are interested in how much clear coat you have at the end of the day) but these machines are VERY expensive.
Most people work off an estimate using a normal paint detective gauge which just tells you how thick the coating between the surface and bare material is (includes paint, clearcoat and base coat). This is better than nothing and acceptable for most people.
EG ROUGHLY it goes 30/30/40 as base, colour and lacquer percentage. This is NOT always the case and is a pretty poor way of going about it but it's all about working to the best information you have to hand.
Normal paint depth gauge.. this one is a PD8
Positector for example do some like this.
These are massively more expensive but able to tell you specifically how thick EACH LAYER of paint are.
So if you are starting with a car that's not been machined before and has let's say 120microns of paint you could realistically go to about 85 microns before you would strike through (where you go through the clear coat and only have paint there) however polishing is as much about maintaining the remaining clear coat than it is removing scratches. the lacquer provides UV protection against fading and you don't want to remove this.
That is not to say you can go to 85 microns left or that you should use that figure in mind! You should use it as a guide to be aware of when you're at risk of burning through.
Burn through on a Blue Peugeot. The paint at the point of burn through measured between 75 and 80uM.
Other cars may be different but that is something to bear in mind... personally I wouldn't touch a car below 90um!
After a burn through you will NEED to have the panel resprayed. You might get away with a smart repair if it's in the center of a large panel (eg bonnet or roof) but really it would need spraying at a bodyshop.
The process of machining is quite easy to be honest as long as you are patient and work through it methodically.
What do you use to machine paint?
First of all you have pads and compounds.
There are many different compounds from various manufacturers, 3m, Menzerna, Scholl, Gtechniq, Chemical guys, etc.
They each behave differently in terms of how long they stay active for, how aggressive they are, price, whether they are diminishing or non diminishing, etc. On the bottles or the manufacturers website they will explain how aggressive the polishes are (more aggressive = more ability to remove swirls however this will remove more paint and also be more likely to leave micromarring and need further refinement).
You have pads as well which come from a wide variety of manufactuers.. Chemical Guys do Hexlogic, Lake county, menzerna also make their own range of pads. My personal choice is the Chemical Guys Hexlogic Range.
Pads, just like polishes, are designed to have a different amount of "cut" - this is the ability of the paint, with a polish, to remove swirls.
For example if you have a really heavily swirled finish you may need to use Menzerna FG400 along with a Chemical Guys Orange pad (this is a very aggressive combination) however in another case you may only need Menzerna SF4000 on a Chemical Guys White pad (this is what's known as a finishing combination) -
You can mix and match as well, for example if you wanted a bit more cut than what the SF4000 could give you with a white pad, you could jump to using the same polish with an orange pad to increase the cut slightly.
My PERSONAL choice is Menzerna Polishes. However the next guy might be a Scholl guy, the next may be a Chemical Guys guy. There's no "right" or "wrong" polish. There are some which are better than others however.
It is important to remember as well about the PAD SIZE and the BACKING PLATe.
The backing plate is what holds the pad to the polisher. You can get multiple sizes, normally you have what are called "spot pads" (for small areas and come in 3 or 4 inch sizes) and then you have 5 inch pads, you can also get 5.5 and 6 inch pads.
You should use the correct size backing plate for a given pad.
EG if you have a 5.5 inch pad you can use a 5 inch backing plate. You want the pad to be larger than the backing plate ideally , this offers some protection. As the pad is relatively soft and non-damaging where as if you tip the polisher over you will grind through the paint instantly.
You can use a larger backing plate than your pad (eg put a 5.5 inch pad on a 6 inch backing plate) however this is not good practice at all. On the plus side your pad will last longer (in terms of it won't end up looking like this)...
But it is stupid - a pad is under a tenner and for the sake of being a cheapskate you risk damaging your car to the tune of hundreds of £?
Also it effects heat build up within the pad and, as such, defect removal rate.
In short - stick to the right sized pad don't mess about.
Here is a list of some Menzernas Polishes and sealants to be applied using machine and their relevant cut and gloss levels
And here's a list of Chemical Guys Hexlogic pads and their cutting ability
It's very important to pick the right combination for your job. You can realistically get by with 3 polishes (finishing, medium and heavy) and 3 pads (again a finishing, medium and heavy).
I also use a microfibre cutting system which is much more aggressive than the available foam pads and is designed for use with "harder paints"
I would recommend for the beginner detailer that they get a "medium" pad in a "spot" version (so 3 or 4 inch) as well as a 3 or 4 inch (the correct one for the pad). As you build up the confidence and knowledge then you can work up to building up a bigger range of pads.
Quick one on paint hardness
Not all paints are born equal.
Some are hard and some are soft.
When we talk about paint hardness we talk about their scratch resistance and also how difficult or, how "hard" the paint is when it comes to removing scratches and swirls when correcting the paint.
A softer paint, normally found on Japanese cars, will mark much more easily with normal washing and drying. However it will be able to be restored using much less aggressive compounds.
A harder paint is normally found on German cars and some American models, which withstand normal wash scratches much more easily HOWEVER they require a much more aggressive compound to be used.
This is why it's VERY IMPORTANT!!!!! to ALWAYS use a test spot with the least aggressive compound, in conjunction with your paint depth gauge, to work out a) how much paint is left but also is there an unusually large amount of paint indicating the vehicle has been resprayed and therefore the paint may be of a different hardness level?
Generally on a car with factory paint you can use that one combination from your test spot throughout the vehicle however if there are any areas which have been resprayed then you need to start from scratch on these areas.
What machines are there
There are two machines ultimately .
A dual action (such as a Das 6) or a Rotary (such as a Silverline).
Here's a Das 6 pro from CYC with a Megs MF pad attached
And here's a Silverline Rotary with some random buffing pad on it lol
I myself use a Das6 Pro and in conjunction with my chosen pad and polish combinations there is not a paint surface it can't work on.
I've used Rotaries in the past which are faster but I personally prefer DA, I can get the results I want, while I do some peoples cars it's normally friends and families so time is not an issue and not only that but there is cost, my DAS 6 Pro cost me £100 where as a decent Rotary that doesn't weigh a ton (the Silverline is under £50 but weighs SO MUCH it's impossible to do a whole car at once) is 3 or 4 times as much.
Rotaries are more difficult to use. They are mainly used because they can achieve results more quickly. However they are also more dangerous in the wrong (or shall we say inexperienced hands).
The difference is in the way the heads (where the pads mount) rotate. There are new Dual Action polishers out (the Rupes bigfoot for example) which combine the ease of use of a DA with the speed of a rotary by having a larger throw (cover more surface area basically).
Rotaries as their name suggests are rotary only. They spin about a fixed axis.
On a Dual action, what a lot of people don't understand is that they also spin however their axis is not fixed as such, it oscillates
So machine choice is fairly important but not the be all and end all. If you are really new to the whole detailing and paint correction game then definitely start with a rotary.
DA's work on SPEED SETTINGS eg 1-6 and rotaries work on a RPM basis.. DA's speed settings still correspond to an RPM however that information may be different on each machine, same goes for rotary.
The first thing is to tape off the sensitive areas. I personally like to tape off all the door shuts, around the windows, where there are rubber seals , as polish residue is a PAIN to remove from these areas and around the door shuts the paint is VERY thin and it's easy to burn through on these edges. When you become more comfortable and precise you don't need to worry so much about it however if you're beginning I would recommend covering at least an 1/8th of an inch from any panel edge .
You can use any low-tack tape however 3m 3434 tape is like £3 for a roll and is regarded as the best tape for the job.
It's best explained by watching (that's how I learnt) but ultimately you take your machine polisher and your pad which is aligned as central as possible (with a hook and loop backing system basically it's velcro pads holding to the velcro backing plate) place a few dots of polish on the pad and dab it around the surface. You don't want to literally coat the entire pad in polish, 4 or 5 10p size blobs are more than enough. The first time you use a pad you'd want to prime it so spray it with one spray of water before you start or you can apply extra polish and spread it around the pad with your finger.
Then work the area (roughly the same size as a regular microfibre towel to begin wtih, you can work slightly larger areas as you get more comfortable but really you you want to split up panels into 3 or 4 sections).
EG I will break a door into 4 sections .. split in half using the rub strip as the verticle seperator and then split horizontaly half way along the door.
When polishing you ALWAYS START WITH THE LEAST AGGRESSIVE COMPOUND and work up until the desired correction results are achieved.
Work in a snake like pattern going up and down along the length of the area you're working, overlapping each pass by about 30-50% and then work in the opposite direction. First you want to quickly spread the polish on a very low speed and then you want to slow down and bump the speed up and actually start to machine.
If you have a Rotary there is a technique called the "Zenith point" technique which I don't personally use but many do. Ultimately you start slowly and then work up in speed to certain stages, and then back down before turning it off. You can also adjust the pressure you're putting on the machine.
Talking of pressure you only want to be really applying enough pressure to hold the machine flat against the surface. You don't want to PUSH on it... let the machine do the work.
Work until the polish has started to haze over (again this is hard to explain it becomes second nature when you're doing it) and then turn your polisher off (don't remove it from the surface of the paint until it's stopped spinning otherwise you'll get splatter EVERYWHERE) and then take a clean plush microfibre and buff away the remainder of the polish.
While I am not a massive fan of Autogeek this video is pretty good and shows you a pretty good idea of what to do
Here are the results I got on my own car.
You can also machine polish your lights
However you need to be aware that as part of the machining polish, heat is generated and you need to understand how different materials will be effected by heat, eg the difference between machining on a metal panel (Eg a front wing) and a plastic panel (eg a bumper).
Ultimately as I said it's pretty hard to explain but easy to watch and even easier to do. If you are at all nervous before taking it to your own car go to a scrappy and just ask if there are any scrap panels laying around. Normally you'll get a door or bonnet or something for free or a tenner, and then you can mess around on that to your hearts content.
But honestly it is not hard to do it right, you just have to keep your wits about you and the most important thing is BE PATIENT.
The biggest problem most people have is rushing, they work the machine too quickly and do not give the polish time to break down leaving holograms, that's the main thing that happens.
It is very counter intuitive at first, you think you're damaging your cars paint but really you're not and you don't have anything to worry about.
Watch some videos on Youtube and watch by learning
It's also important to be comfortable when you're working and keep the cord for the machine over your shoulder to avoid it marking the paint.
Some other decent video guys
There are single stage machine polishes, 2 and 3 and even 4 stage machine polishes.
However many stages usually dictate how refined you want the finish. You can never get perfection from one step.
To remove light scratches you can use a less aggressive compound and pad combo but you won't remove all scratches in a single pass.
To remove heavy scratches you need to use a heavier duty compound/pad combination, which will leave tiny micromarring behind in itself
The micromarring will need to be removed by using a less aggressive compound (often known as a finishing polish) afterwards to refine the finish to a point of absolute perfection in terms of reflection and clarity... so that's why you can't ever have a perfect 1 step polish unless your paint is already nearly perfect.
Generally a one step polish is used to remove as many scratches as possible without leaving micromarring or hologramms (eg in a 1 day paint correction session).
Remember when I was talking about using a machine to apply a filler polish like Autoglym SRP? Well you can do that as well. You would need to use a finishing pad however it needs to be done faster than if you were actually machining using a compound, as you would dry the polish up, and at a lower speed, so normally you make a 3-4 passes on speed 4 with a light polishing pad (eg a Chemical Guys white pad)
you may find yourself needing to have a spray bottle of water handy to help re-activate the polish as it dries out.
After you have checked your work and you are happy with the results you may want to take this time to remove all the tape from the vehicle. Now would be a good time to snow foam the vehicle and again dry it. While the snow foam is doing it's thing you may want to get a detailing brush and a microfibre towel and go around the car and remove any of the polish or tape residue that is stuck in awkward places (like door window seals).
A cocktail stick and cotton bud will really help out here.
You need to be careful during this phase as if you scratch the car again all of your hard work would have been for nothing. YOu want to be as safe as possible.
There what I normally do is rinse the vehicle thoroughly in a pre-wash solution or snow foam.
Then I take my hosepipe and my mitt, with fresh wash and rinse buckets, take some shampoo solution from the rinse bucket and spray the hose INTO the mitt as you then clean the car again - Again working in straight lines.
This provides extra extra lubrication at this critical phase. (you can also do this during any wash if you want).
I got this technique from Larry from AmmoNYC - I am not sure if he was the "first ever" to do this but it works quite nicely.
Go to 8m04s
Then dry the vehicle very carefully. Again using a lovely clean microfibre drying towel.
After this you move onto the LSP
LAST STEP PRODUCTS
LSP is known as Last Step product.
This is basically the last step that you will do on the paint (which isn't always strictly true but hey I'm just being pedantic now).
When we say LSP we mean the protection we will apply to the paint.
I would like to say first and foremorst that WAX or Sealant WILL NOT IMPROVE THE FINISH OF THE CAR. That is not STRICTLY true but I'm talking the broad strokes.
If your car is swirled to hell and you wax it, it will still be swirled to hell. People who say "I used <Wax A> and now my car looks amazing are unfortunately lying to themselves and to you. It may intially appear better but under light it will still be the same as before. People often say "I waxed my car and now it's really shiney" - Well it's an optical illusion.
Polishing the paint is what provides you with the shine. I would say that an LSP adds maybe 5, 10% AT MOST to the final finish quality of a vehicle (and this is for ceramic coatings which actually add physical depth to the paint, I will get onto these in a minute).
You polish to get the shine, you wax (or apply sealant) to PROTECT the shine.
You may ask how this works, well it's all about layers again. If dirt is able to stick directly to the paint it's going to be harder to wash off, harder to remove, and particles will physically bond to the paint itself.
If you have some wax or sealant on the vehicle, the majority of dirt will simply not be able to stick to the surface as it becomes too slick for the dirt to bond to. What does manage to bond will be able to come off much more easily after a rinse/snow foam.
In practise this means if you detail your car once and fully machine it, protect with a durable and quality sealant, you can wash your car simply by snowfoaming it twice a week (it may take several hits) and then drying it with a leaf blower or compressed air - This way you NEVER have to actuall touch your car again to clean it. That's the dream huh?!?
Throughout this guide you may have noticed I've not really compared or recommended many different products. This is because MOST products, by and large, do pretty equal jobs. However there are some which are notably more durable than others. Many products are actually rebranded anyway so you may very well have 2 products which are EXACTLY the same just from 2 different manufacturers..
You have a few options here. I personally break it down into 3 classes
Ceramic sealants (or si02 based sealants)
The wax and sealants should be pretty self explanatory. Waxes are generally made from natural carnuba extracts. Sealants are normally synthetically made.
For example Auto Finesse Temptation ? Is a wax , it contains Natural Carnbua.
Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection is a sealant. It is synthetically created using chemicals.
Then you have what I call ceramic sealants. These are much more difficult to apply and remove, often needing very particular conditions to apply and a specific preperation before applications. An example here would be Gtecniq EXO.
Prepation steps? Well this depends on the product you're using, and the best thing I can suggest is to FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURERS INSTRUCTIONS. Generally they know best AS THEY MAKE/DESIGNED/SOLD the product. If it says "leave the wax 20 minutes before buffing off" you best damn leave it 20 minutes!
If you have a wax you may benefit from "glazing" or using a "pre wax cleaner on the surface before you actually apply your wax, as it allows the oils within the carnbua wax to bond better to the surface, and likewise for a sealant you may find a chemical cleaner helpful as sealants GENERALLY prefer to bond to bare paint.
However this is optional really and providing you've polished the car and removed any polishing oils you can apply both sealants and waxes to bare paints quite happily (A lot of detailing is subjective..)
To apply wax or sealant, much like with using a filler polish you should use an applicator pad.
Some sealants are actually touchlessly applied, such as Nanolex Washcoat - This is applied by spraying on it a pump sprayer and then rinsing off.
I did a guide of that product here
For waxes and sealants to be honest I would recommend a sponge pad, unless specified by the manufacturer. Again it's important to ensure the applicator pad is clean before use.
Normally, as a rule of thumb, you apply some product to your applicator pad and then spread it across the paint.
YOU NEED TO WORK IN STRAIGHT LINES. Don't ever work in circles on paint unless SPECIFICALLY told to by the manufacturer. I can't think of any product aside from ceramic/si02 sealants that you CAN'T apply in straight lines.
Apply a THIN, even coat of your wax or sealant to the vehicle. Follow the instructions as to how long to leave it to "cure" (this is the process of the wax or sealant "Bonding" with the paint. You can do what's called a swipe test, this is done by taking an area and swiping it with your finger to see if you leave a clear, non-smeary mark in the paint. If you do then you can remove the sealant or wax.
Anything that you remove is excess product (therefore a waste) and therefore putting too much product on wastes the product, and more importantly it wastes time, having to struggle to remove excess layers of wax or sealant because you pasted it on with a roller brush!
Less is very often more when it comes to last step products. On darker coloured cars it's quite easy to see where you're applying the wax or sealant however on lighter coloured cars it's much harder so you may need to use additional light sources or just your sense of "feel" and a methodical, thorough approact to knowing where you've gone and how much you've applied.
After you have applied your first coat you normally want to go back after half an hour or so (again this depends on the exact sealant) and give a second coat - This is to ensure a nice even coverage. You can continue layering your wax or sealants however past 2 or 3 coats you get no tangible benefit in terms of durability.
Another Autogeek video here which will help explain it better.
It says "how to apply sealants" but it's exactly the same with a wax. They have made a video on how to apply waxes but it's literally the same thing so save your time.
I want to touch on the ceramic/si02 sealants in a bit more depth.
As I mentioned they are far more difficult to apply, often recommended to be applied by competent people only, and sometimes even sold to professionals only. Some require very specific temperatures (for example Gtechniq EXO), some require a religious panel prep before application (for example CarPro Cquartz) which if there are polishing oils or any other residues left on the surface of the vehicle can cause the coating to react in a negative way (eg yellowing) or a failure of the coating to bond with the paint at all.
If you are in any doubt have a professional do the product application or perhaps have them do it the first time so you can watch and then you will be able to copy them in the future.
Thanks to the power of the internet there are many application guides of most of the products online so if you are stuck as to how to apply, for example, Gtechniq Exo, you will find that the nice chap from Gtechniq got togeher with KDs Detailing and made a "how to" video.
The same is true for Gtechniq C1, CarpPro CQUARTZ, CQUARTZ UK Edition, and many others. For these product applications other things may be handy like suede microfibres (although to be honest if required normally these are provided with the purchase of the sealant) , makeup applicator pads (for Gtechniq C1 these are very very useful).
Cquartz for example actually increases the surface thickness and provides a large increase in scratch resistance.
When you are using sealants such as this it's important that the car be allowed to cure correctly, normally after you apply the sealant the vehicles surface needs to remain free from water/dew etc - so needs to be in a garage really, ideally at a constant temperature and humiduty.
How long will my wax or sealant last?
Well that does depend on what wax or sealant you use, how well you prepared the surface, and such like.
How do you measure durability I hear you ask? Most people do this by using beading as an indicator.
However beading does not indicate any protection. All that indicates is that the surface of the paint is clean and there are no other contaminents on it which would effect the way that water sits on the surface.
Here's a photo of my car immediately after machine polishing and another wash to remove the polishing residues and oils...
So no wax and yet it's still beading?!?!
Magic? No it's simple physics and how the water sits on the surface at a mollecular level. The truth is there's no way to tell whether your wax is "still there" other than if it's beading or not so we tend to use that as an idea.
Anyway back to the original question, how long does an LSP last ?
If you just wax over a poorly (or non) prepared surface you might get 1 or 2 months of durability.
The same wax on a car which has been decontaminated is maybe going to go for 2 to 3 months.
The most I have ever personally gotten out of a wax (I do a lot of tests on my car) is 4 months.
This is using Collinite 476s.
My car is a true daily driver, as I use it every day to go to work, it sits ungaraged next to a main road and at work we are 2 minute walk from a rail way so my car is subject to a lot of iron based fallout and contamination. It gets washed at least once a week, often more. Each time you wash you do degrade your LSP that's just to be expected.
The most durable sealant I've come across was probably FK1000p (if you can call it a sealant) This was about 3.5 months.
Ceramic sealants I've not done too much with personally, but you can expect at least 8 months durability, normally we are looking at over a year - But the care during washing and particular attention to using a wax safe car shampoo with no additives is important.
How much are waxes and sealants, and are they worth it?
Waxes range from £5 to £500 and even higher.. you can spend £20k on some wax if you really want to.
Is that to say that a £20k wax is better than a £200 wax? Which, consequently, is that better than a £20 wax?
I say no . That is my PERSONAL opinion from my experiences. Same goes for sealants.
Ceramic sealants are very expensive on a per ML basis. EG a 30ML kit for Cquartz may be £50.
However you can buy a 500ML bottle of Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection for £8.99 - However that £50 will cover 4-6 cars with the coating lasting for over a year on each vehicle.
You are paying mostly for the label/brand/name. Auto Finesse sell a wax , for example, called Desire. This is claimed at 6 months durability and costs £120
(you can buy it from £60 direct from the manufacturer Angelwax, see what I said about rebottling products and paying for the name??)
Someone on Detailing World did a test between Desire and Autoglym HD Wax, which is £40 in Halfords but can be bought for £25 on Ebay.
They both lasted roughly 3 months on a panel sat outside in a back garden. There was no real discernable difference in beading and neither wax hazed or created a negative impact on the finish.
I personally use a few waxes and sealants, Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection, CarPro RELOAD, Colinite 476s, I also have Meguiars NXT Tech Wax 2.0 (which I've not used, it was a gift), AutoFinesse SOUL (which I have used a few times and it was very hard to use..) and G3 Super Resin Wax (this is the easiest wax in the world to use and very nice smell and you can leave it for 2 hours and still just wipe it off in one pass)
Outside of this, for how I work (outside) there is absolutely no need for anything else. Nothing I buy has a fancy brand label, aside from the AF Wax which I bought in a discount sale.
There is not really any physical difference in how each wax or each sealant effects the finish
HOWEVER I will say that GENERALLY a wax gives a warm, wet shine and a sealant gives a more crisp, defined shine.
People say sealants look better on lighter coloured cars and waxes look better on darker cars but I disagree. A well polished looks better, not the particular wax or sealant you've used.
Some companies (mainly Dodo Juice) make all sorts of different coloured waxes designed for different cars
And people often get caught up thinking they have to use a certain coloured wax on a certain coloured car.
THIS IS INCORRECT.
Dodo Juice waxes DO hue the surface, HOWEVER - this is after 4 or 5 layers of wax and the colouring effect only lasts for a matter of hours and is removed after one wash. So to me it's a false economy. You're not going to put 4 or 5 layers of wax on your car at a show or something.
YOu can read about that HERE - http://forum.dodojui...opic.php?t=2011
Buy whatever wax you like. It will work just as well on pink as it would brown as it would red as it would bright green.
The reason people buy loads and loads of waxes is because it's like a collection. As I said, detailing is an art form. People like all the different products in their design, smell, feel and how they are used...so if you want to buy loads of different waxes go for it, there's nothing WRONG with it, it's just not NECESSARY.
So by now you would have waxed your car and you think that's finished.
WELL IT'S NOT
The finishing touches..
This is where you really earn your bread and butter as a detailer.
Now the paint is corrected and the protection to the paint applied you may think your job has been completed, well there are other things that need dressing.
For example, plastic trim pieces (such as the rear valance, side skirts and front splitter on our GTIs) - These textured plastic pieces can fade over time and become grey and just not look very good.
A trim dressing helps to restore these to their former glory.
You want a strong contrast between the paint and any trim to get that really amazing finish.
So use a trim dressing. There are again many of these and I'm not going to get into which ones to use but as with Wax/Sealants there are normal gel or water based ones like Auto Finesse Revive or Autoglym BUmper and Grim Gel, and Si02 ones such as Car Pro DLUX
The ones which are more durable are more difficult to use of course.
They are to give your black plastics an actual "black plastic" look rather than grey and faded, as such.
You can also use these products on rubber seals around windows as well , there are other products specific for this.
Same can be said for tyres...
To apply these dressings you need a few sponge applicator pads and a microfibre towel to buff off any residue or excess.
Obviously never use these particular pads or towels on the paint.
Cleaning glass can be tricky, often people find it's smeary or streaky.
Let's cover the outside first of all.
Cleaning exterior glass is nice and easy to be fair.
Use 2 microfibre towels make sure they're nice and clean and dry and folded correctly.
You can mist some glass cleaner on the glass itself and then spray your "wash" towel and then clean the window.
Flip the wash towel over after a few passes and buff off.
You may be left with a clean window but a few streaks and the odd mark.
This is where you use your second microfibre towel and buff off to a nice clean , streak free shine.
Your glass cleaner of choice helps as well, using a decent quality one like Dodo Juice Crystal Methanol thinigy or Autoglym Fast Glass (which is what I use) helps reduce the likelyhood of streaking
Cleaning the inside of windows is easy as well, it's the same thing but I do not recommend spraying glass cleaner on the glass itself as it can drip down onto interior trim.
Cleaning WINDSCREENS is the hardest thing about cleaning glass and with a few simple steps can be done easily and in a streak free mannner.
Firstly use CLEAN MICROFIBRE here. Dirt is what causes the smears
DON'T TOUCH THE DASH WITH THE MICROFIBRE TOWEL.
Sit in the passenger seat and twist your arm around and work across that way. Don't try to fight with the steering wheel. Spray the towel with some glass cleaner and work across the windscreen. Then you can flip the towel or take another clean towel and buff it to a nice clean shine.
The best way to understand this is to watch the video..
Look at 10m15s
In the same way that you can seal and protect paintwork the same can be done for glass
You can either just wax the windows, which does provide some of the same effect on paint (beating and water running off at high speed) or you can use a dedicated glass sealant.
Some of these are easier to apply, some are harder. It really does depend on what product you use.
Some products are Gtechniq G1 + G5, Dodo Juice Supernatural Glass Sealant, Carpro FlyBy30, Nanolex do one as well.
To apply these are very manufacturer specific. However the end result is the same, that at speeds above 40 or so your wipers become largely reduundant, they make driving in the rain, especially at night, much, much more pleasant.
Richard Wizzle 83 has had experience of these in the past.
For example a demostration video of FlyBy30 is here
And an application example for Gtechniq G1
As you can see both products need different methods of application, but ultimately the car needs to be in a dry environment for a period of time.
End effect when you're driving is something like this.
So there we've covered the majority of the cleaning process.
Detailing , valeting and car cleaning is such an open ended topic it's impossible to really ever draw it to a close.
I try to avoid recommending specific products as it's a very personal thing and there are not really any products which work amazingly better than another.
Where this is the case I have shared my personal opinion but that is only what I found.
I will continue to update this guide as I come across more things that I will inevitably miss or need to clarify.
Handy hints and tips!
- Always fold your microfibre towels 4 ways. This is to prevent scratches and promote good towel management
- Use a quality wash mitt and the 2BM (with grit guards if possible
- Avoid water blades and chamois, dry your vehicle using a microfibre drying towel using the "pat dry" technique (only drag it across the paint if you have to)
- If you drop your clay on the ground DISCARD IT and use a new piece
- In fact if you drop anything on the ground cast it aside, in the bin or the washing basket.
- You can clean your machine polishing pads in the sink with fairy liquid and warm water. Then they need to be left to dry naturally, ideally in an airing cupboard or somewhere else nice and toasty , but not a radiator or infront of a fire!
- You can throw your microfibre towels in the washing machine along with all of your other laundry however you should not use any fabric softener with them. You can buy specific Microfibre Wash solutions from the likes of Chemical Guys but it's not necessary in my opinion
- Use the best quality microfibre towels you can afford. You can buy packs of 10 for under a tenner on Ebay and these are fine for every day use, cleaning glass, wheels, etc. But when buffing paint I would recommend the "Eurwow" towels, as these are more plush and come with silk lined edges
Normal sort of MF towels
They are much more plush and "softer" and ideal for removing waxes and polish residues.
- Improve the overall appearance of your vehicle by adding contrast between the paint and any plastic surfaces, such as rubstrips or bumpers, this includes cleaning the wheel arches as mentioned in the washing your car section way above.
- Take pride in your work and enjojy what it is you do!
Hope this is helpful
I have written this guide entirely myself. Feel free to share it on any owners sites freely but I would like to be credited if you do please.
However some images I have taken from various owners forum posted publically, as well as other publically available sources such as Google Image Search and other reference sites such as Detailing World. These images are used for information only and no copyright infringement is intended and I do not claim to have taken any pictures other than those of my car or ones which I explicitly state are mine.
Posted by Golf V5 on 27 May 2010 - 01:34 PM
Please Place Your Mk4 Related ebay Finds In This Thread.
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Posted by Rex Kramer on 17 January 2017 - 08:32 PM
This p i s s poor designed b a s t a r d
Posted by Imagewerx on 04 February 2008 - 02:03 PM
How to��.upgrade the stereo in mk.4 Golfs/Boras
And just why would you want to change the OEM fans idea of perfection?
The first reason is the low output power,the stock four channel Gamma or two channel Beta only manage an embarrassing 7 watts RMS/channel,play any piece of music with any real bass in it and they just don�t have enough headroom to hold it all together,most people don�t know that you can do more damage to a speaker by underpowering it than by overpowering it.A small amp driven into severe clipping (where the sound turns fuzzy and distorted) can harm a speaker in a matter of seconds,the fragile tweeter will go first (the voice coil will melt,so it just won�t work),followed shortly afterwards by the mid that will probably survive the torture,but will always sound distorted afterwards.I�ve heard this happen to many more speakers driven by low powered OEM head units than I ever have with ones where a higher powered (25 watts RMS/channel or more) aftermarket unit has been fitted.
Another one (or at least in my opinion) is that you have a unit based around a music storage and playback format that was first used in the late 1960s.Although Compact Cassette was very good in its day,sadly that day has long since said goodbye to us,as have all that use analogue recording techniques,and finally the tape deck in these radios really is truly awful.
THIS thread just about covers everything I can say about the reasons on the grounds of sound quality (or lack of it) to change the stereo in these cars.Another point to add to this is that these units have some fancy EQ (equalizer) curves built into them that are designed to work with the OEM speakers to try and compensate for their lack of output power (bass too bassy,mid too middy etc),and changing them for aftermarket component speakers while keeping the stock radio can lead to a reduction in sound quality.Any aftermarket source unit will have a much flatter frequency response that will work a lot better when you upgrade the speakers.
There a few steps you can take to improve the sound of the stock units that are detailed below.
ADDING AN AMPLIFIER TO A STOCK RADIO
It is possible to increase the output power of these units by adding an external amplifier,luckily we have been given a pre-amp level output that can be found in the mini ISO connector at the back of the radio,top row and the end nearest the middle.We can use a connector as shown below (Autoleads PC3-11) to give us front and rear outputs as labelled,the blue wire is for the remote switching of our amp(s).
We can use this in a number of different ways,we could use a four channel amp to drive all the speakers and nothing else,or we could amp just the fronts and a sub,or just a sub.
If you are amping the speakers up,it�s not worth running new wires all the way to the speakers,and as the standard speaker wiring is of more than adequate thickness then you can make the connections from the amp at the back of the radio in the ISO loom.
The male speaker ISO block is shown below,the easiest and least permanent way to connect to it is with a female ISO,if you don�t have one and don�t want to cut it off then you can splice into the wires just above the connector.
If the ISO block has been cut off already,you will need to refer to the following to know what the different coloured wires connect to.
VW wiring colour
Standard ISO wire colours
Rear right +ve
Rear right �ve
Front right +ve
Front right -ve
Front left +ve
Front left -ve
Rear left +ve
Rear left -ve
If the power ISO has also been cut off,the following will be needed,but please note that this is only applicable to Golfs & Boras,other VAG cars are slightly different.
VW wiring colour
Standard ISO wire colours
Ground or earth
Ignition/accessory switched live
K line diagnostic-DO NOT CONNECT
Speed pulse for GALA function
Don�t worry if you get the pos and neg wires of the different speakers mixed up,it won�t damage anything,but you will lose bass as the speakers will now be out of phase,a quick test would be to balance and fade around the car and if you get the bass come back as you do this,then you�ll have to start swapping wires over to find out which ones are round the wrong way.
Connecting external sound sources,i.e. MP3 players.
The most popular addition to these units has to be that of a portable MP3 player,in particular the iconic Apple i-Pod.As there is no direct auxiliary input as such for external devices,then we have to look to other methods to achieve this.
You�ll need to cut the wires so that the CD audio isn�t passed to the radio,and of course you need to have a CD playing all the time you want to listen to your MP3 player.
Audio ground should go to pin #18,but expect the possibility of noise that may need some playing about with earths to get rid of.If you wanted to be adventurous,then you could arrange a changeover switch to re-enable use of the CD if and when needed.
The downside to any of these methods is that unless you are very lucky you will get unwanted noise added to the music,normally in the form of clearly audible alternator whine.
There is no one particular reason why we get this noise that is somewhat random in nature,take two apparently identical cars and one will have it and the other one won�t,or two identical units in the same car where one will have the noise and the other one won�t.
It is sometimes possible to cure this noise by messing about with different earths,sometimes it is caused by not having an earth it needs,and sometimes by having an earth it doesn�t need,this is mostly down to very poor quality control at the manufacturing stage,and doesn�t have one easy cure-all that always works.
Ground loop isolators can actually make it worse in some cases,and they also remove most of the bass which won�t be a problem if you�re using a subwoofer as well,and surpressors also don�t normally work as the noise doesn�t come in down the power wire,but either down the earth or ground connection or it can even be airborn.
A lot of this is also down to incompatibility between different makes of equipment,such as different signal levels and poorly matched input and output impedances,the only way to guarantee that this will not happen is to either make sure that all the various parts come from the same manufacturer,or buy an aftermarket unit that has everything all in one neat box.
You will never be able to overcome all of the problems with stock radios as outlined above,the only way around them is with a change to an aftermarket unit.
INSTALLING AN AFTERMARKET HEADUNIT
The single biggest fallacy of the OEM radios is their very low output power,all we need to do to release the potential of the OEM speakers which are surprisingly good is install a higher powered headunit with the now almost standard single CD/RDS tuner,peak power figures of around about 4 X 50 watts which are still good for about 4 X 25 watts RMS will make the biggest single improvement in sound quality for the least amount of money spent that we will hear in our cars,and all in the space of the ten minutes or so that takes to swap radios over.
Anything from any of the known manufacturers such as Pioneer,Kenwood,Alpine,Sony,JVC,Panasonic etc will always be a guarantee of quality and reliability,avoid any brands you haven�t heard of being sold cheaply on e-bay,if it seems too good to be true as it has a lot more features than other more expensive units,then it almost certainly is,with this cheap gear it�s not a case of if it goes wrong,but when,sometimes within a few hours.
Also if you want to be covered by all the proper consumers statutory rights,always buy from a recognised UK based retailer,and not from someone who�s shop only exists in cyber space,it may well cost you a little bit more money in the first place,but it really is false economy to do it any other way.These traders are NOT normally authorised dealers,and as such you will not be covered by the manufacturers Uk warranty,so if your equipment goes wrong,you may find yourself needing to pay for the repairs.
It really depends on what you want it for,or what your primary format or sound source will be.
For as little as �50 for a brand new 2008 model you can get a front mounted auxiliary input socket that you can plug any external audio source into such as i-Pods or any other portable MP3 players WITHOUT the noise problems associated with the adaptors that can be plugged into OEM radios.
If i-Pod will be your main source,then it would be a better idea to get a dedicated unit that will give full high speed control of the external player as well as charging it,meaning it can be hidden away in the armrest or glovebox and controlled entirely from the headunit in the same way a CD changer would be.
Even better would be one with front or rear mount USB (Universal Serial Bus) socket that will let you plug ANY MP3 player into and be controlled by it (not just i-Pod),and also any of the ever expanding variety of Flash drives or memory cards (with the appropriate reader of course).Solid state memory such as this is so cheap now that is almost disposable,2Gb Flash drives are now as cheap as �7.99 that can take 500 songs,and still at good(ish) quality.
N.B. USB is available in two different standards,G1 which will only work with solid state memory such as Flash drives,memory cards and small MP3 players such as i-Pod Nano (but not with Hard Disc Drives),and G2 which will work with everything including HDDs and full sized i-Pods,so read the specs and make sure you get the one that is appropriate for your needs.
Taken from the initials of the �Radio Corporation of America� and also known as phono leads,but no matter what you call them they are unfortunately the worst possible way of getting a low level audio signal from a source unit to an external amplifier,but as they have now become a world wide standard then sadly there is nothing we can do about it.
To be able to upgrade our system we need at least one RCA output,although we are able to split this into two or more to drive multiple amplifiers,we won�t have the ability to fade front to rear,but will have to rely on whatever we preset the gains on the amp(s) to.
To get the best from any fully amplified system,we could do with at least two RCAs to give us front/rear fade or front and sub with fade,or even better would be front and rear AND sub with non fading to the sub output,that way we can have full control over everything from the front of the car.
Not really essential,but a very useful feature to be able to give your system that final tweek from the comfort of the drivers or passengers seat.
High Pass Filters (or HPF) if you also have a subwoofer in the car,these cut the bass off to the full range or component speakers,meaning they will play louder with less distortion,possibly with variable crossover points from about 80Hz upwards.
Low Pass Filter (or LPF) to cut off the midrange and upwards to drive a subwoofer,again variable would be nice up to about 100Hz.
A graphic equalizer to be able to compensate for acoustic anomalies in the cars interior,even the very best component speakers will always benefit from a touch of subtle EQ,and if you want to be really posh time alignment to compensate for differing speaker positions.
One thing I don�t think is needed,and one the doesn�t actually improve the sound is the soundfield simulations such as club,stadium,church etc,NO NEEEEDDDDDD!!!!!!!
If you have any portable Bluetooth devices,then you can connect them to any compatible headunits with this feature built in.Your mobile phone will automatically route all incoming and outgoing calls through the cars speakers and display all the information from the phone on the radios display without the need for any external hands free car kits,and if it also supports streaming audio it can play full quality music from your mobile phone through the cars speakers.
DAB (Digital Audio Broadcasting) has been set to be the biggest ever change in the history of radio,but it is all a bit indefinite at the moment,it may or may not happen as planned.It won�t be long before we get satellite radio like the Syrius and XM services they have in America (or at least that�s the plan),but at the moment nothing is carved in stone,so don�t buy any equipment based purely on digital radio,as it could all be obsolete in a few years time.
Of course the first thing to do is to remove the OEM radio,don�t try the old trick of cutting up a credit card as all that will happen is you�ll have bits of plastic stuck in the slots,and a radio stuck in the dashboard,instead buy the proper VAG radio removal tools,such as Autoleads PC5-133 from Halfords (Other shops are available).
Pull the old radio out and disconnect all the wiring from the ISO and aerial sockets on the back,where you should see something like this.
The connector on the left is for the speakers as discussed a bit further up,the right hand one is for power and a few other functions such as speed pulse.If we want to connect any standard ISO equipped radio directly to this the easiest way is to buy a plug and play adaptor such as the Autoleads PC2-69-4,if not then we have to do a few wiring modifications first.
The new ISO loom will come with plain red and a plain yellow wire with inline male and female bullet connectors already in place,we have to swap these over so that yellow now goes to red,and red will now go to yellow.If we don�t do this then the unit will still switch on and work ok,but when we switch off then it will lose everything stored in its memory and return to its default settings when we switch on again.
Make sure you don�t have anything connected to the grey/white wire to the right of it,if you do you may find that important functions such as central locking and electric windows no longer work.
There will also be a blue or blue/white wire in the new ISO block connected to the red/white wire shown with the yellow arrow,this is the remote switching wire for electric aerials or amplifiers,if we don�t isolate these two so that they aren�t connected to each other,then there will be a backfeed that could flatten your cars battery,although it will appear that it has switched off,it won�t have done so fully although the display won�t be lit up.The best way to do this is cut the blue or blue/white wire in the new ISO loom,put a female insulated bullet crimp onto the headunit end,and insulate the end that goes to the cars loom.
If you want to listen to the radio,you will also need an Autoleads PC5-90 or equivalent adaptor.Contrary to popular belief this is NOT a booster amplifier,it is a phantom power supply that sends power up the aerials coax cable to the matching amplifier built into the base of the aerial,again this also is not a booster but actually makes the radio �think� that the aerial is lot longer for MW reception (ideally it needs to be about 1.5km long for this).This is built into all the OEM radios,and is only needed on aftermarket radios if you want to listen to MW,or not all if you don�t mind no reception at all on MW,or slight loss on FM where it won�t be noticed if you only ever listen to strong local stations.
You will need to connect the blue flying lead to the blue or blue/white wire as outlined in the last step.
That�s about if for now,you will have your new head unit in and working at last,the next step will be to change the speakers for better ones,and also to add an amp(s) and even maybe a sub.That guide will be along as soon as I�ve written it,so watch this space.
Posted by Imagewerx on 21 August 2016 - 07:33 PM
And a big thank you from one of the organisers.A massive shout out and heartfelt thanks from me to all the regulars who could be bothered to turn up,it really means a lot to see the same old faces supporting us EVERY year.And of course the noobs (James,Andy,Anna,Lucy and Roger and any others I might have missed) who started as strangers a few days ago and hopefully now feel part of the Megameet massive.Those who were going to come but didn't for what ever reason you really did miss a fantastic weekend.
I'm now both happy and sad at the same time.Happy that I had such a fantastic time and sad that I now have to wait a whole year to do it all again.
We suffered this year from bad support from our sponsors,so only had four trophies to give out and no raffle prizes.
Peoples choice................................................Tolucophoto (voted for by everyone)
Best of show....................................................Lucyyyyyy215 (voted for by the judges taking the average of three votes out of 100) (This car is almost flawless and is a joy to look at)
Best modification.............................................Monk-E for his 100% home fabricated supercharged 2.0 GTI
Best show of dedication to the Megameet......Ashohfk. This was Ash's third time travelling up all the way from Cornwall just to be with us,this time in his more expensive to run R32 after we talked him out of bring the derv,about 700 miles each time.
Well done to all the winners this year and everyone who turned up to make it a success once again.Also nice to see more mk4s this year than last year,I think about a dozen in total? Oh and of course thanks to Royce for just being Royce,it wouldn't be the same without you .
Posted by harveysduvet on 20 June 2016 - 12:01 PM
Posted by Imagewerx on 17 March 2016 - 05:26 PM
Locked again for good this time.The last thing we want potential new members of this board to read about is another member advocating knocking cyclists off.You should be ashamed of yourself Mr Bennett,and also pay a visit to some sort of anger management as you clearly have issues in this respect.
THIS SUBJECT IS NOT TO BE STARTED UP AGAIN IN A NEW THREAD,ANYONE WHO DOES WILL RECEIVE A WARNING.
Posted by Franko180 on 13 December 2015 - 06:28 PM
Posted by PokerProTDI150 on 13 January 2015 - 11:26 PM
One of the worst mods possible for 6 speed PD's driven daily ...... Single Mass Flywheel.
Posted by Thai-wronghorse on 11 January 2015 - 09:22 AM
Posted by tomv64motion on 21 August 2014 - 08:33 PM