uk-mkivs DIY Guides

Forge Eliminator DV (prototype) - Review / guide

2005-08-13T10:48:00Z

Following on from the DV006 install guide I did some time ago, here's a guide on how to install the later spec, still yet to be released and more advanced, Forge Eliminator valve. First, before we discuss the install I'll give some background on the valve itself, detail some of the differences and advantages with the valve compared to other DV valves available.

The Forge Eliminator Valve (pictured below) is due to be releaed in the next couple of months. Its the next generation in light weight polymer diaphragm DV's, and utiles a light weight and compact design - which differs from the other piston type valves that Forge produce - in that it utilises the 'stock' like rubber diaphragm, similar to the standard fit DV's (Bosch) fitted to 1.8T's, to perform the operation of sealing / venting excess boost (recirculation).

PLEASE NOTE - The Eliminator valve is due for release in the next six weeks (mid September) and should cost around £105+vat (price subject to change). As this valve is a development model there will be some visual differences between the valve pictured and final production models. However, techincally the valve is identical to the production models due to be produced.

The Eliminator valve will also be marketed as the replacement for current DVRA and Optimus valves, and with the option of tuning the Eliminator valve via variable springs (available from Forge) it should cover a wide range of applications.

Taking a look inside the DVRA we can see obvious differences to its piston type relatives:

From the picture above we can see that instead of having a solid metal piston we now have a rubber diaphragm. Diaphragm rigidity when assembled is taken care of by the small metal inner piece (lower right of picture). This piece also provides a solid base for the spring to sit on.

So what advantages does this valve offer over piston type valves? Response time is one - and for split second gear changes and smooth power delivery this has to be the most important factor to consider with this valve. I have yet to produce some logs, but from the good ol' butt dyno, gear changes and spool up times certainly feel like they have improved over the stock Bosch DV I had fitted previous to the install. Note - It was quite possible with the Forge DV006 (fitted to my previous AGU 1.8T) to produce noticable hessitation with quick on/off throttle play - with this valve however, it just responds a quick you like with absoloutle zero hessiation.

Other factors to consider are how well the valve holds boost. I have in the past found that some piston type DV's tended to leak boost under load (peak boost), which, in turn, would cause surging. Knowing that a rubber diaphragm would, in theory, create a more complete seal this further increases this valves ablity to perform. Of course this all depends on then tension of the spring (a tuning kit is available from Forge).

Another very important factor is servicing. This vavle doesn't require regular servicing, unlike ther other piston types which require regular maintenance to ensure operation. Surely a plus point with any enthusiast who requires maximum uptime.

The only drawback for the valve is high boost pressure applications - which in some cases require a stronger diaphragm and/or spring. For the application I have the valve is more than capable.

Now we have covered the background and features of the valve, lets move onto the install. As I have already covered one half on the install (removing the Bosch) in a pervious install guide I will just detail the steps necessary. For details on how to remove the Bosch valve please see the follwing guide: Install guide - Forge DV006 (removing Bosch valve)

Before we begin. This is a giude to installing a Forge DVRA, and although there are similar Forge DV's available, its not the 'defacto' way to install a DV. If you experience any problems I cannot be held responsible for any issues that may arise. Also, if you feel that your not upto the task of installing the valve yourself, please seek the advice of a professional or someone with experience who can handle the install for you. Although this install is based on an AUQ drive-by-wire 1.8 Turbo, the information and pictures are still relevant to the earlier non-drive-by-wire engines.

Tools needed.
1 x Flat Head Screwdriver
1 x Small Cable tie (supplied by Forge)
1 x Stubbed nose wire cutters
1 x Pack of two 16-22mm Hose clips (supplied by Forge)
Some High Temperature Grease (optional)
1 x Forge DVRA (errr... obvious really!)

We start this guide assuming the stock Bosch DV has been removed. If not please see the link above.

IMPORTANT - PLEASE ENSURE THE ENGINE IS COLD BEFORE STARTING WORK

With all intake and outake ports free we simply just place the hose clips (supplied by Forge) on to the respective hoses:

Place the Forge DVRA in place and tighten the clips. Also place the vacum line onto the vacum inlet. As the vacum inlet is adjustable 360° I chose to angle the inlet away from the other ports on the DV. This also meant the vacum hose wasn't coming into contact with the engine (once refitted):

And another shot of the valve, from the right, You can clearly see the vacum inlet from this side:

This conludes the install guide.

Links and acknowledgements.
Many thanks to Forge Motorsport for their extremely quick turn around on ordering the valve. The valve was with me next day and even included the all important hose clips and cable tie necessary for the install of the valve. Excellent service - thanks Forge!

Forge Motorsport can be contaced via their website - www.forgemotorsport.co.uk

DV install guide - Removing the Bosch DV.

2005-01-01T18:30:00Z

Before we begin. This is a giude to installing a Forge DV006, and although there are similar Forge DV's available, its not the 'defacto' way to install a DV. So if you experience any problems then I cannot be held responsible for any issues that may arise. Also, if you feel that your not upto the task of installing the valve yourself, please seek the advice of a professional. Although this install is based on an AGU non-drive-by-wire 1.8Turbo, the information and pictures are still relevant to the later drive-by-wire engines.

:: Important ::
Also, before starting any work, make sure your engine is cold! You will be working around the back of the engine, in particular by the turbo, and probably resting on the Cyliner head while you do some work. I dont have to tell you how hot it gets - especially the Turbo Compressor outlet.

I've split this guide into two parts to make it easier. You will find a link to Part Two at the end of this giude.

Before we begin I know my engine looks like its been to Afghanistan and back, But with all the bad weather we've been having lately its not worth getting my engine cleaned. UPDATE - I don't own this car anymore so odd's are it looks ten times worse now!!

OK on with the install allready..

Tools needed.
1 x Phillips head Screwdriver
1 x Flat Head Screwdriver
1 x Small Cable tie
1 x Stubby wire cutters
1 x Pack of two 16-22mm Hose clips (Halfors / Motor Factors sell these)
Some High Temperature Grease (again, Halfords or Motor Factors)
1 x Forge DV (duhhhh)

Removing the Bosch DV
First off, heres the engine:

Take a good look at it. Try to Familiarise yourself with the various comonents. Now as I stated where going to be working around the back of the engine, so your going to have to get the Engine cover off. This is an easy task. Unscrew the caps arrowed, using a quater turn with your Phillips Screwdriver. They should pop-up easily. If they don't pop up, I usually find rocking the cover gently helps the caps to come loose.

With the engine cover off we get our first good look at the Bosch OEM DV, its the component circled. Try and get a good look at it from different angles. You will note that it has three hoses attched. The Left side hose - where the 'diverted' pressure comes in. The small hose on the top (Vacuum hose), and the last down below - where the diverted boost pressure is released into your air intake. These are the three hoses that need to removed thus enabling you to remove the DV.

Here's some more pics of the DV and closeups of the connected hoses:

As you can see its quite a confined space, but with some good steady hand work you'll have it out no problem.

Removing the Hoses:
At this point your hose clips may look different to the ones pictured (as I have had my Forge in for some time and replaced the original hose clips some time ago). Update - I've been alerted by some forum members that the factory fitted clips are quite hard to remove, resulting in many a blue word swearing bout and skin removed from knuckles. You have two options with the stock clips - either try to prize them off - or cut them. As you'll no doubt be purchasing new clips I suggest you go with the latter of the two options. Remember be careful when cutting as you don't want to damage any of the boost pipes!

First unscrew (or unclip / cut) the clip on the side, then pull the hose off, holding the DV as you do this.

Now comes the fiddly one, you may have to use a long shafted screw driver to get to the lower hose clip. Once unscrewed pull the DV upwards and it should slowly slide out.

Now you need to remove the small hose at the top. I used the set of stubby wire cutters to prize this O ring open, but you can just clip it off as the metal is fairly soft.

Congratulations! You've now succesfully removed your OEM Bosch DV!

Click here for part two - Installing the Forge DV006

DV Install Guide - Installing the Forge DV006

2005-01-01T18:29:00Z

Installing the Forge DV006

The install of the Forge, as youve probably guessed, is just the reverse of removing the Bosche DV.

Now at this point as the hoses are exposed, you may wish to replace the two factory installed hose clips with the Halfords 16-22mm clips. I personally found them easier to work with than the VW clips, but it's up to you.

Firslty get a small ammount of the high temp grease (Optional) and coat the end of the ports on the DV. This will make it easier to slide the DV onto the hoses.

With your new clips in place (if you used them), slide the Forge into the lower hose and tighten the clip. Make sure its quite tight but not too tight as to cut into the rubber hose. You might also have to hold the clip as you tighten with your finger to stop from sliding round. Also make sure the clip is positioned centrally on the hose.
Repeat the same process with the side hose. This may take a bit of work to get this on as the hose is slightly smaller than the intak port on the Forge valve (may be different on other Forge DV's), but if you put the grease on, it shouldnt be too hard.

As you have removed the O ring (or opened it up) you may have to use the cable tie to attach the smaller hose to the top port of the DV. This one's easy and once the cable tie is fitted and tightened, clip the end of the cable tie with your wire cutters.

You may want to double check that the hose clips are tight and that you may not have disturbed any other hoses in the general area.

And...Thats it!

Replace your engine cover and admire your handy work....

All thats left now is to test her out! Dont forget to let your engine warm up correctly so the oil gets to working temp - As your no doubt going to be giving you Turbo a good thrashing to check the responsiveness of the new vavle!

Again, if you need to tighten any of the clips again just make sure that the engine has cooled down.

More pictures from the install can be found here in the Install Guides Gallery

Happy modding,

Tabs