Breaking the 200hp barrier in a Golf PD150
After two years on a remap the standard clutch started slipping (105k). This was my chance to fit an upgraded item and finally decided to go for a Sachs Cover and Organic plate.
March 2008 - Clutch



In addition a new Sachs Dual Mass Flywheel and release bearing were fitted.
April 2008 - EGR Replacement

Before


After

As I have blocked the exhaust manifold end I decided to remove all this (not had any problems with cabin heating):

April 2008 - ProVent 200

May 2008 - 312mm Audi TT set up - these might look like scrap metal but they are actually in very good condition

May 2008 - The important part - hybrid turbo Custom Spec- all mods done internally - 360 bearing, biggest compressor and exhaust wheel that can be housed




May 2008 - Turbo back Milltek exhaust system



May 2008 - New top suspension mounts (plus bearings), ARB bushes and 312mm set up fitted



May 2008 - Exhaust system fitted - just a comment to say this was one of the best after market systems I've fitted went straight on.



May 2008 - Picked up a rear Audi S3 brake set up 256mm vented with calipers & carriers

June 2008 - Alloy boost pipes finally landed


June 2008 - Alloy boost pipes and turbo fitted
Ok lets start of with the turbo first:
We decided to fit the turbo from the top so removed the inlet etc

Standard Vs Hybrid unit



Fitted

Next the Allard pipe kit:
First problem no documentation - so we were left to make calculated guess's.
Started from the turbo side - this runs as long the front driver side wing, as you can see had to trim the cover to get clearance

Fitted to the standard intercooler pipe

Problem number two tyre rubbing on alloy pipe - design error - So had to play with the bracket to gain any clearance (managed about 2cm)

After adjusting the bracket

Third and forth problem top boost pipe to inlet not correct - the gap is just shocking, so ended up making rubber mounts and then bolted it down.

Bigger rubber mounts fitted to hold top boost pipe and to over come pipe making contact with power steering fluid bottle

Problem number 5 the lower boost pipe bracket gap is just too much to bolt together.

Different angle

Ended up making an alloy spacer and drilled another hole for alignment and trimed the extra off


Also note the swarf inside the Allard pipework - this MUST be cleaned before fitting



June 2008 - Upgraded dog mount bushes



August 2008 Audi S3 Rear brakes 256mm
Calipers cleaned up and painted


6mm spacers required









October 2008 After a few development map the Final map is loaded and RR booked
No smoke and running 1.9bar boost

December 2008 - OEM Xenons
Order all the parts needed for the loom:

Loom made up:

Made the connectors waterproof:

Used oem tape for the loom:

Quick test:

25-3-09
Now with increased boost and fueling - boost mapped to 32psi. However, map is not as clean as the 220hp map in terms of smoke.
4-4-09
Went for a RR and it made (check the boost LOL):
Flywheel figure

Wheel figure

Boost LOL

The operator reckons it will make 240hp on a cool day - I was logging during the RR and discovered my air charge was 39.8 degree. On the road I was seeing 28ish degree. So def more power there on the road :)
August & September 2009 - Water/meth injection
Decided to fit water/meth injection - I ended up buying the Devils own kit stage 1. The kit comes with everything you need. I also went for the dual nozzle set up (pre turbo):

Made a panel to fit all the switches, LED's etc out of hard plastic:

Started work on fitting the nozzles - first started with the inlet manifold:
Drilled the correct size hole:

Tapped the 1/8 NPT threads:

Mounted the nozzle:


Repeated the same process on turbo intake pipe (pre turbo)



Fitted the self sealing bulk head (22mm hole required):

Fitted

Relay and pressure switch:

Got hold of some meth:

WMI tests:
Inlet

Pre turbo

Custom bracket for the water pump

Fitted

Panel with manual on/off for WMI - LED to confirm when the pump is running and 3.5mm female jack for the headunit


Been to set up the WMI on a rolling road and below are the outcomes (Red line WMI off and Blue is with WMI on) as you can the peak power is pretty much the same but the power over the same rev range better (holding power). I found having the WMI coming in at 18psi worked best for me. I also ran without the pre turbo nozzle and confirmed it made no difference to power so I'll be disconnecting that. In the future I'll try mounting the nozzle before the map sensor. Looks like if you want more power you'll have to put in more fuel and live with the smoke or get a bigger turbo.

Water injection update MAP sensor moved
Decided to relocate the MAP sensor AFTER the nozzle position and fitted a proper air charge monitor (samples 3 times a second) in the old nozzle location:

MAP sensor flange welded in place:

4mm plate for nozzle:

Plate made up to block old MAP sensor location:


MAP relocated and nozzle repositioned:

Cheers
Bobby
No longer a trader so please dont bother me :)