"My Mk.4 Golf/Bora has locking on the key, but didn’t come with any remote fobs, can it be converted to remote locking, and if so how easy is it, and how much will it cost?"

 

You could buy the relevant CCM (Central Conveniance Module) that includes the radio receiver that won’t be present if it didn’t leave the factory with this option, but you also need a different wiring loom and of course only OEM remote fobs will work with it that need to operate on the right frequency and have the correct corresponding part number, and unless you’re lucky enough to get a CCM and remote fobs all from the same donor car, then you’ll also need access to VAG-COM or a trip to a VW main dealer to get the remotes coded to the CCM. Even second hand you could be looking at in excess of £200 to get all this done, there is however a cheaper option.

 

There are many universal remote central locking kits available, this guide details the fitting of the Toad RK30 which in my experience is the most reliable one available as I’ve been fitting these to mk.4s for many,many years now without any problems. This unit gives you a couple of two button remote fobs, with separate buttons for lock and unlock, and nothing else (what else would you need from remote locking?).

 

There are many cheaper units available on e-bay made in the far east, some are good and some aren’t, but in my experience cheap is almost always false economy and will cost you more in the long run. When looking for one if you decide to go down this route as long as it has at least two central locking wires that give a negative pulse (this is the minimum spec of every add-on central locking system ever made) then this will work on a mk.4. Most will come with full six wire locking which will work in any car in the world, and some give you the option to buy them with OEM style remote key fobs that only need you to swap your keyblade(s) and transponder chip(s) over without the need for separate remote fobs.

 

If your car has any sort of OEM alarm (LED on top of the drivers door card and possibly ultrasonic sensors on the roof lining) then the locking connections MUST be made in the drivers door, if it doesn’t have one then they can be made in either front door.

 

It’s always easier as a point of reference to put it in the drivers door, so the first job will be to remove the drivers door card, as detailed HERE by those kind folks at the mighty VW Vortex,thanks guys!!!!

 

All the connections will be made in the loom that plugs into the multiplex unit (this controls central locking and windows), unplug it by placing a flat bladed screwdriver into the slot at the bottom of the connector as shown below and levering it downwards,the plug can now be pulled from the module.

 

 

VERY carefully cut back the cloth tape that binds the loom, it is possible to cut through the insulation on some of the thinner wires and very rarely to short two wires together, so it may be a good idea to disconnect the car battery before you get to this stage.

 

I mount the remote locking unit as shown to keep the aerial as close to the top of the door as possible, and so give it the best possible range.

 

 

The loom can now be taped up to keep it all neat and tidy,keep the black/white and black/green separate but taped up for a reason we’ll come to later.

The wires can now be connected as shown below for an RK30,for other units you will need to choose the option for negative polarity or pulse central locking.

RK30 wire colour	Function	Car wire colour or number
RED	+ 12 VOLTS SUPPLY	THICK RED/WHITE
BLACK	GROUND	THICK BROWN
ORANGE	IGNITION SENSE	NOT NORMALLY CONNECTED
RED/BLACK	LOCKING POLARITY	THICK BROWN
RED/YELLOW	LOCKING POLARITY	THICK BROWN
GREY/RED	LOCK PULSE	PIN # 24
BLUE/RED	UNLOCK PULSE	PIN # 4
BLUE/YELLOW	NOT USED	CUT OFF
GREY/YELLOW	NOT USED	CUT OFF
BLACK/WHITE	RIGHT INDICATOR	BLACK/WHITE
BLACK/GREEN	LEFT INDICATOR	BLACK/GREEN
BROWN/WHITE	TIMED TOTAL CLOSE O/P	PIN #24

 

The brown/white wire goes negative for 20 seconds every time you press the lock button,this is meant to be used as a total close output on cars that have this facilty,connect it to the grey/red wire to give full total close when locking the vehicle.

 

 

The orange ignition sense wire is only needed to program new remotes, so it’s up to you if you connect it or not).

 

It would be a very good idea to make the connections using a soldering iron and not the Scotchlock style if possible, and tape the joint tightly with electrical insulating tape once it’s cooled down.

 

.

 

If the car already has an OEM alarm then there is no need to connect the indicator wires if the indicators flash when you lock it with the key, if not then the rubber boot needs to be pulled off at both ends as shown.The two taped wires should be fed down the plastic tube that protects the existing loom, and then through the boot and into the car.

 

 

I use the lid from a length of small plastic electrical trunking to get the wires through, once it’s up into the space behind the fusebox tape it to the trunking lid and poke it through the space between the cluster and steering column until it appears in the space behind the switches. The switch blanks can be levered out using a plastic trim tool,or carefully with a flat bladed screwdriver with some thin cardboard wrapped around the blade to protect the finish on the plastic. The wires are connected as shown above, couldn’t be easier as the colours are exactly the same.

 

That’s about it, reconnect the battery and give it a test,the left hand button should lock the doors and the right hand one should unlock them, if you’ve got them the wrong way round it really doesn’t matter too much with something simple like this, just remember which buttons you need to use, or swap them over if you feel the need.

 

If it works put the doorcard back on, and walk about grinning like a cat that’s got the cream as you repeatedly push the button to lock and unlock it as you walk further and further away.

 

DISCLAIMER

 

ALTHOUGH THESE CARS ARE PRETTY WELL BULLETPROOF,THEY STILL AREN’T INDESTRUCTIBLE,SO IF YOU’RE IN ANY DOUBT ABOUT DOING ANYTHING I’VE WRITTEN ABOUT HERE THEN PLEASE,PLEASE SEEK THE HELP OF AN EXPERT.

IF YOU DO THIS WORK YOURSELF AND DAMAGE YOUR CAR THEN I WON’T BE HELD RESPONSIBLE,THIS IS ALL DONE ENTIRELY AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Chris.

 

Great write up.

 

Just wondering what would be placed in the buttons on the top of the dash?

Chris.:

Great write up.

 

Just wondering what would be placed in the buttons on the top of the dash?

Why thank you. Heated seat controls,ESP and the infamous "FUNK" button,sure there's one more that escapes me at the moment.

Chris.

Thats great, this should really help when doing mine

For the buttons you forgot the one you are cutting the wires on the hazard lights, oh and the heated window.

 

Richard

 many thanks Chris, i'll definitely give this a go! cheers mate

 You can also get a PDC button and a GAS button.

 Great write up Chris, 2 questions though:

1. After reading up on these Toad kits, I see it can close  the sunroof and windows on the mk4 Golf, for this to work, does it require extra wiring? or wil it work through the wiring guide you supplied?

2. Can you supply these Toad kits? as iv'e spotted a few prices online that are quite tempting.

Colin

coliniv:

 Great write up Chris, 2 questions though:

1. After reading up on these Toad kits, I see it can close  the sunroof and windows on the mk4 Golf, for this to work, does it require extra wiring? or wil it work through the wiring guide you supplied?

2. Can you supply these Toad kits? as iv'e spotted a few prices online that are quite tempting.

Colin

Thanks,I've edited the guide to include the total close wire which some muppet forget to include when he wrote it,the muppet's proof reader hasd been sacked.#

Are you interested in some kind of group buy,not had a look recently but know there are places selling them VERY cheaply?

Chris.

 would definately be interested if a group buy was a arranged as a lot of golfs dont come with the remote central locking so reckon you could get a good wee turn out of it.

think the price i saw them on the net was £69.99. Good amount of names and a decent saving could be made i reckon

Really great write up Chris. Guide has inspired me to get this work done on my own car, which I'm doing my self tomorow (quit excited). Just a quick question. The part where you write

The brown/white wire goes negative for 20 seconds every time you press the lock button,this is meant to be used as a total close output on cars that have this facilty,connect it to the grey/red wire to give full total close when locking the vehicle.

Do you mean connect the total close wire instead of the lock wire (to pin 24), or in conjunction with it? As my (limited) understanding is, it would be better to connect the total close wire instead of the lock wire as it essentially does the same thing except hold the output for 20 seconds? Connecting both lock + total close wires would send 2 lock signals to the module right (and there's no need to send 2, just 1 and hold it)?

suj:

Really great write up Chris. Guide has inspired me to get this work done on my own car, which I'm doing my self tomorow (quit excited). Just a quick question. The part where you write

The brown/white wire goes negative for 20 seconds every time you press the lock button,this is meant to be used as a total close output on cars that have this facilty,connect it to the grey/red wire to give full total close when locking the vehicle.

Do you mean connect the total close wire instead of the lock wire (to pin 24), or in conjunction with it? As my (limited) understanding is, it would be better to connect the total close wire instead of the lock wire as it essentially does the same thing except hold the output for 20 seconds? Connecting both lock + total close wires would send 2 lock signals to the module right (and there's no need to send 2, just 1 and hold it)?

There's no reason why you have to connect both,but there may be times in ho weather when you don't want the windows closed,how about connecting the total close wire via a rocker switch to diasable it's function if needed?

Chris.

Well with the kit I am using, I think the Total close wire starts as soon as the lock button is pushed which seems to mean I either have to have total closure fully or not at all? I presume this is the same with the Toad Rk30? Is my understanding correct here?

Where would be a good place to put this rocker switch? Fitted any before? Maybe I could fit a funk button for it :)

With the kit I am using, there is a 3rd boot pop button (button must be held for a couple seconds), I suppose I could wire this to be the door lock only button (pretty sure it sends out a negative pulse), and have the normal lock button for total close?

Also - how the hell did you get your hazard switch connector box out of the dash like that? I've gotten the hazard switch disconected, but the connector block barely moves? Feels like I'm gonna have to remove the central air vents just to get some access to it?

All of these units are compulsory total close,so if it's connected it'll work every time

The boot release will only send out a pulse,probably about one second at the most,and unless you can extend the length of the lock and unlock pulses (unlikely on these basic units) then the only wire you can use for total close is errrmm..... the total close wire.

The rocker switch can go anywhere,maybe one of the centre dash switch blanks?

Tilt the vents upwards as far as they'll go,and you'll see a couple of Torx T20 screws that will need to be undone,there's also a couple of clips holding the top in place that can be released by pushing something thin and soft into the gap and carefully pulling on the while thing.

Chris.

Imagewerx:

The boot release will only send out a pulse,probably about one second at the most,and unless you can extend the length of the lock and unlock pulses (unlikely on these basic units) then the only wire you can use for total close is errrmm..... the total close wire.

I think you misunderstood me. What I described was a method of giving my self the option of total close or just locking the doors (I hope) by:

Connecting total close (20 sec neg output) and boot pop (neg pulse) wires to the lock wire going into the multiplex plug. This would mean:

Unlock button on fob = unlock car
Lock button on fob = lock car with total closure
Boot pop button on fob (hold for few seconds) = lock doors only...

Seems like a nifty way to give my self the option of locking just doors or total closure all via the remote - saves me wiring up a switch too.

Well, I've fitted my remote locking. It works great and I'm really pleased with my work. I just have a quick question regarding total close...

The total close output is something like 20 or 30 seconds - however, even with my sunroof fully open and windows fully down, it takes no where near 20 seconds for all 3 to close - is it safe/ok for the elec sunroof + window mechanisms to be constantly getting a close signal even after they've already closed? E.g. will they wear out (a bit like me holding the up button for the windows after they've closed) - or is the multiplex unit intelligent in that it'll disregard the signal once it "knows" the windows are fully up (and down for that matter) ?

They have a function built in so they know when the motor has stalled,if you listen carefully you should be able to hear a relay click as it cuts off power to the motor(not audible on all cars though) when the window gets to the end of it's travel.

Chris.

Last question Chris - I promise Indicator wire pin numbers - can you confirm them? Looking at the wires going into my indicator block here's what I have:

Pin 1 - black and white with green dashes
Pin 2 - black and green solid
Pin 3 AND Pin 7 - black and white solid

Which black and white is it? Looking at the picture you've posted it looks like pins 2 (b/g) and 3 (b/w) but it's too hard to tell. Pic below of my block:

The black/white/green is the input from the indicator stalk that you don't want,and the black/green and black/white wires are the outputs that you do want.

There should only be one of each,if not quickly bridge across from the red/green to see which one makes the indicators light up.

Chris.

I've done one of the wires, Pin 2 - Black/green works ok and is the right hand side indicator. I'm going to assume Pin 3 Black/white is the left indicator...

Well I can confirm that Pin 2 (left indicator)) and Pin 3 (right indicator) are the correct wires.

Hi!

I've found this excellent guide on how to fit the remote central locking. I managed to do the wiring needed, however it doesn't work. It unlocks fine by using the remote, but does not lock at all. Could you please confirm that pin#24 has to be used, it is a thin blue/yellow wire? I set it to negative polarity. It is not the product you described, it's a Rightclick product.

Any help is appreciated!

Andras

I forgot to mention the make, model and year of the car: it's a VW Golf IV, 2004.

avincze:

Hi!

I've found this excellent guide on how to fit the remote central locking. I managed to do the wiring needed, however it doesn't work. It unlocks fine by using the remote, but does not lock at all. Could you please confirm that pin#24 has to be used, it is a thin blue/yellow wire? I set it to negative polarity. It is not the product you described, it's a Rightclick product.

Any help is appreciated!

Andras

Pin #24 is lock on every mk.4 I've ever done this to,my car and most of them have that wire as a yellow/blue which I guess could be seen as blue/yellow?

What you may not have done is set the polarity on both lock and unlock,there should be a wire connected to ground for both of them.Of the total of six wires just for the central locking,two will be lock and unlock,two will be to set the polarity and two will not be used.

If you have grounded both of those wires,you need to check with a test light that there actually is a negative pulse of at least 1 second coming down the lock wire when you press the corresponding button on your remote.

Chris.

Thanks for your answer. Finally I managed to get it working, I used the same wire as you said from pin #24. It appeares to me that actually the order how you connect the console and the remote locking unit is very important. After a couple of tries it got the grip -- very strange.

One thing I could not use is the trunk release button (I do not really need it though). My unit has two jumpers through which you can set the length of the pulse, it sais 0.5s (release +) and 3.5s (release -) however measuring with the multimeter did not show any current. I guess the release - option has to be used as well, isn't it?

Thanks again for this great "howto", it was way more useful than the very short installation guide which came with the unit.

Thank you as well,the pulse length is VERY important,too short and nothing happens but make it too long and the windows go down a few inches when you disarm.

Chris.

thanks for the guide,

had to referto it a few times and be very helpful !

Thank you Imagewerx for the info. Installing the remote in less than two hours thanks to the good description.

Two questions for the guru(s). Does the pin #24 always close the windows, or does it need a long pulse to do this? My unit has a cable for windows and I connected that one as well as the normal pulse to pin #24. Now I only got "comfort locking".

Edit: Figured out that one myself. The pin #24, and pin #4 as well, is time related. If the remote is set to 3.57 secounds, it opens the windows half way down when opening the lock :) Too bad the remote I got is not able to have a longer pulse if I keep the button pressed. Guess I will have to live without comfort locking, as I often park the car with the windows open. Just have to use the "old way" if I forgot to close the windows....

I also have a fob with 3 keys. I was thinking of using the "open trunk" key for the gas lid. Anyone been there? I have not measured the polarity, but do believe negative can be used there as well.

Edit 2: Tried to use the "trunk key" to open the gas lid. The switch under the handbrake sends + to the gas lid. Tried to use the "trunk key" on the remote, with + out, but the fuse just blows. It is probably possible if I use a relay, but I do not think I bother.

Tor

avincze:

Thanks for your answer. Finally I managed to get it working, I used the same wire as you said from pin #24. It appeares to me that actually the order how you connect the console and the remote locking unit is very important. After a couple of tries it got the grip -- very strange.

One thing I could not use is the trunk release button (I do not really need it though). My unit has two jumpers through which you can set the length of the pulse, it sais 0.5s (release +) and 3.5s (release -) however measuring with the multimeter did not show any current. I guess the release - option has to be used as well, isn't it?

Thanks again for this great "howto", it was way more useful than the very short installation guide which came with the unit.

 

 

I am having the exact same problem with pin #24 while trying to install my rightclick - it unlocks but doesnt lock...can you please let me know exactly what you did to get around this? what do you mean by the order you connect the console to the remote locking? any help would be massively appreciated! other than that - wicked write up, really helped.

zchad1f:

avincze:

Thanks for your answer. Finally I managed to get it working, I used the same wire as you said from pin #24. It appeares to me that actually the order how you connect the console and the remote locking unit is very important. After a couple of tries it got the grip -- very strange.

One thing I could not use is the trunk release button (I do not really need it though). My unit has two jumpers through which you can set the length of the pulse, it sais 0.5s (release +) and 3.5s (release -) however measuring with the multimeter did not show any current. I guess the release - option has to be used as well, isn't it?

Thanks again for this great "howto", it was way more useful than the very short installation guide which came with the unit.

 

 

I am having the exact same problem with pin #24 while trying to install my rightclick - it unlocks but doesnt lock...can you please let me know exactly what you did to get around this? what do you mean by the order you connect the console to the remote locking? any help would be massively appreciated! other than that - wicked write up, really helped.

Forget about your remote unit for now by unplugging it,what happens if you ground pin #24.Does it now lock the doors?

Chris.

Have your wiring ready, make sure everything is connected as it should, except the rightclick box. Close all the doors and see if you can close the doors by using the buttons placed on the door (by sitting inside the car). If it does, connect your rightclick box and see if you can open the locks. without opening the doors repeat the lock-unlock procedure several times and see if that works or not.

Thanks for your really quick reply! I actually spent hours trying to work out what was going on - it was only when I disconnected all the wires and tried to put it back to normal that I noticed it didn't lock properly then either, using a key on both the passenger and drivers door. At first I thought I'd fused something but The door control lock inside still worked. It was then I realised that I had not tested it with the drivers door fully closed as I had the pannel off! It was as simple as not closing the door! After kicking myself really hard, it's now all sorted and installed.if anyone has trouble installing a right click on a mk4 feel free to message me but you shouldn't find it too difficult with this awesome guide. Cheers for all the help guys!

Excellent guide! It's inspired me to de-lock my car and install the remote kit. (Well... Combined with having my stereo nicked this week! )

Just out of curiosity... what do the blue/yellow and grey/yellow wires do?

mac83:

Excellent guide! It's inspired me to de-lock my car and install the remote kit. (Well... Combined with having my stereo nicked this week! )

Just out of curiosity... what do the blue/yellow and grey/yellow wires do?

They're the normally closed side of each relay and would only be used with other central locking configurations,such as vacuum or direct motor drive.

Chris.

 Excellant guide

Chris,

My locking modules have died, the drivers side one doesnt let me unlock, too stiff to even contemplate moving it and it just spins round in the lock way.

Thought about getting this kit and I dont have an alarm.

 

Is this just a case of connecting the power, neg and locking and unlock pulses to the relevant wires on the CCM loom?