I then moved on to the intercooler and pipe work, again this was nice and easy to whip off with nothing more than a screwdriver, spanner and a socket set. I used the Forge FMIC fitting instructions to point me in the right direction when it comes to removing the bracketry for the SMIC. I didn't have to go to the extreme of removing the bonnet release cable protector to get to the 10mm bolts holding the bracket in place under the washer bottle. I just loosened the washer bottle fixing bolts and was able to get a ratchet spanner in with a bit of wiggling.
And that was it all most done for the first afternoon with everything removed with the exception of the turbo.
So before I packed up for the night, out came the turbo... Wasn't too difficult, 8x12mm bolts to remove and only one of them started to round off, it came off eventually with a bit of WD40 and lots of patience. Originall I was worried I wouldn't be able to fit the turbo out from the top of the engine bay as the Haynes manual states the drivers side drive shaft has to come out and it has to be removed from the bottom. This isn't the case, the turbo did need a fair bit of wiggling and need to be turned upside down first but eventually it popped out.
Obviously before removing it I needed to disconnect the oil feed pipe (I just cut it near the turbo end and removed it once it was out of the car, much easier), return pipe and the turbo support bracket.
I've now got a very slow 1.9SDI... 
UPDATE
So the first afternoon was over, at least the outside part of it anyway. It had taken a total of about 4 hours to get the car to this stage but that's including the time to get all the tools down to the car, get it up on 4 axle stands, remove the wheels, bumper, headlights etc.. I didn't think it was too bad considering I've not done most of the work before and I didn't need to consult the Haynes manual once.
So before I could really call it a day I carted all the bits away, most of which ended up spending the night in my study.
Much to the delight of the missus!
I then started the job of cleaning the inlet manifold and EGR. I'd been told that TFR (Traffic Film Remover) did a good job of cleaning out all the crud, so I'd bought a 5l bottle of concentrate and poured this into a large tub and left the manifold and EGR to soak for a couple of hours while I cleaned myself up a bit too.
After bathing for a couple of hours (the car bits, not me) I started the ritual of moving them around and swishing the tub around to aggitate the dirt off. I continued to do this every hour for the rest of the night and then again in the morning. After they'd been soaking for about 12 hours there was an obvious improvement to their condition. I then started to give them a bit of a brushing down with a long handled bottle brush which allowed me to get inside the manifold to the hard to reach spots. I did this for about 20 minutes and then left them to soak again while I got back to the real work...
Day 2 (Thursday Afternoon)
I was otherwise occupied on the second day so I didn't get started until about 3pm but figured I'd have time (about 4 hours) to fit the new Forge Intercooler and pipework, strip the old brakes off and start fitting the new discs, carriers and braided lines before the sun started setting.
So first up I needed to remove the standard crash bar and replace it with the Forge crash bar which includes the hangers for the FMIC. To get the crash bar off first I needed to remove the bonnet mechanism support, this can either be left in place and the bottom section hacksawed off or the whole thing can just be unscrewed and completely removed. The only thing to note is that if you remove it completely the bonnect release has to be lined back up as they share the same fixing screws. As I didn't want to change anything I couldn't put back if I needed to, I decided to remove it completely. I made a couple of small marks on the bonnet release mechanism and the bit of the car it mounts to so that I could easily line it back up again afterwards.
Once this was off the crash bar comes off with 4 bolts and 4 torx screws but before unbolting it I got a jack with a piece of wood and jacked it up to support the radiator surround so that it wouldn't move whilst fitting the new Forge crash bar.
The new crash bar fitted straight into position with no problems, just the 4 bolts and 4 torx screws and it was sorted. I then followed the instructions provided by Forge for the fitting of the intercooler core and associated pipework. Everything went together really easily with very little trouble, even removing the old SMIC bracket was easier than stated in the instructions as I didn't have to bother removing any of the bottle cable protector. I was able to just loosen the two fixing nuts from the washer bottle and lift it up just enough to slip an 10mm ratchet spanner in and remove the nuts which held the bracket in place.
One of the most important things you need when putting the kit together is some silicone lub spray as you need to manouvre the silicone pipes around quite a bit whilst they're on the aluminium pipes and a quick squirt of lub makes it a hell of a lot easier.
So about an hour after starting and the intercooler was fitted. I was about to start on the brakes when I got a call from a delivery man who was on his was to drop off a box for me....
And there it is, my new MD376 Hybrid Turbo!
A quick check of the identification plate to make sure I'd got the right one back. This wasn't an exchange, they'd taken the used 150 (GT1749VB) turbo I'd provided and completely stripped it down and rebuilt it with the larger compressor and modified turbine, new seals and strengthened shaft.
Couldn't believe how good it looked, it could have been a brand new unit from the factory is I hadn't of known better. It even included new studs for the exhaust, EGR and heat shield, which meant I needn't have bothered buying new ones from the VW dealer, oh well spares for next time!
So the plan of stripping the brakes down and fitting the new discs and lines was put on the back burner as I decided to get the engine work completed instead and fit the new turbo.
I figured it wouldn't take too much time to fit the new turbo as I'd already been through the process of removing the old one so knew what was required. I started by fitting the EGR blanking plate to the turbo as I wont be fitting the EGR recirculation pipe at all to keep the EGR nice and clean, this was just a case of getting a blanking plate (I got one made for me by a mate at work), a new gasket from the dealers and adding a thick layer of Holts FireGum to both sides and tightening the 2 nuts. The FireGum will then harden up and give a good seal once the manifold heats up. I then primed the new turbo with fresh oil, I used a syringe to push some oil into the oil inlet and manually spun the turbine wheel a few times. I then fitted the new gasket to the engine block and added a bit of copper grease to the manifold studs, I then manipulated the turbo down between the engine block and the bulkhead, it actually went in easier than the old one came out. It was then pretty simple to hang the turbo onto the manifold studs and I fitted a couple of nuts just to keep the turbo in place.
I then needed to get underneath the car to fit the support bracket to the turbo and engine block and position the exhaust onto the turbo, again I fitted the nuts loosely just to keep it in place. All that was left to do now was to fit the oil return line to the bottom of the turbo along with a new gasket and start to tighten up the nuts to the required torque levels. Once all the nuts were tightened to the required torque (I think they were all 25nm, which is tight using a normal size socket wrench and then an extra quarter turn if you don't have a torque wrench) I got back under the car and connected up the red turbo outlet hose and tightened up the jubilee clips on the intercooler pipework. And that is pretty much all there is to fitting a new turbo, 8 nuts on the outlet manifold, 3 on the exhaust outlet and 2 bolts on the support bracket, total time taken about 30 mins and that is with me double and triple checking everything.
All that remained was to fit the new oil feed pipe, the original VW one is a soild metal pipe which is bent in the right shape to go around the engine block but when it comes to fitting a new one of these it can apparently be a bit of a nightmare so instead I followed the advice of others who have done the same thing and bought a braided line instead. This braided line fits to the front of the block via a banjo connection and can easily be run around the block to the turbo.
Before fitting this line to the turbo I needed to prime the line to remove any air and get it filled with oil. This is very important as the turbo shaft floats on a layer of oil and if there isn't oil available as soon as the turbo starts to spin then you will damage the shaft! To make sure I had good oil flow I disconnected the electrical connection to the injectors so that the engine couldn't start. I then used the starter motor to turn over the engine a few time until oil started flowing from the oil feed line (remember to put a container under the oil line!) and then connected it up to the turbo oil inlet. I was almost done now but first I had to check the oil was flowing throught the turbo properly and there weren't any blockages, again I turned over the engine and waited till there was oil coming from the oil return line beneth the turbo and then connected this up to the sump.
And that's it new turbo fitted. 
Now that that was done I thought it would be better to get the rest of the engine put back together before starting with the brakes, so I went back to my tub full of TFR and the soaking EGR and inlet manifold. Most of the gunk was gone by now and I emptied out the TFR and washed everything down with hot water and soap. The cleaning wasn't over yet though and now I started with the can of heavy duty degreaser, it's good stuff and I've used it before to clean my previous cars EGR. I got it from my local Motor Factors and its an aerosol which foams up and coats things and then when it dissolves so does the dirt and grease. I spent a good half an hour going over the parts again and again getting in every nook and cranny until they really were clean as can be without going to the extreme of shot blasting!
I then washed off everything again with clean water and left them to dry against the radiator.
While the EGR and manifold were drying I got on with cleaning my Green Cotton panel filter, it had been on the car for about 6 months and so was well due a good clean. I washed it down in the Green Cotton cleaner and gave it a light brush down with a paint brush (unused of course!), I then washed it down with clean water and I couldn't believe how much dirt and grit came out of it. My advice would be if you've been running a performance air filter for more than about 4 or 5 months and haven't cleaned it yet then seriously do it soon! The panel filter then went on to the radiator along with the manifold and EGR to dry out.
As I had a bit of time to burn I figured I might as well get the 312mm brake carriers I bought painted up, they were a Skoda green so didn't quite fit in with my current colour scheme. I had bought some Hammerite hammer black spray paint and I'd already stripped the carriers down using some nitromors earlier in the week so all I needed to do was to give them a few coats. I didn't need to be too careful as they'll barely be seen behind my wheels, just as long as they look black rather than green. The only thing I did need to do was to mask off the holes for the caliper guide pins and the mounting points for the carriers so they sit properly when bolted in place.
Day 2 (much later Thursday afternoon, or should I say night!)
Needless to say I'm thankful for the nice light nights we're now having.
The inlet manifold and EGR are now dry and so I get on with refitting them along with the TIP, airbox and MAF. Everything goes back on quite quickly and by the time I'm finished the panel filter is dry and I can put that back in the air box too.
I decided to go over everything one last time double checking all of the nuts, bolts and screws I'd fitted making sure I hadn't forgotten anything, the injector connection was put back in place. It was now time to see if it all actually works....I placed the key in the ignition and turned....
The engine turned over and fired into life. 
I then left it to tick over for about 5 minutes while I got back underneath the car to check there were no signs of oil or gas leaks from the turbo or manifolds. After checking for another couple of minutes I decided I'd done enough and headed in for some well deserved rest...
Day 3 (Friday afternoon)
Again I start the day quite late and don't really get going till about midday. The jobs for today are strip the brakes down, remove the carriers, discs, calipers, pads and lines.
I didn't think this would take all that long and didn't think it would be too difficult either...mmmm
So here are the brakes as they were completely standard, discs well worn with pronounced lips especially at the back.
First job was to take the calipers off the discs and hang them to the shocks out of the way. I then unscrewed the fixing screws and removed the discs, this needed a good few wacks with a rubber mallet to get the rears off, from the look of the discs I'd guess they're probably still the same ones it came out of the factory with. With all the discs off I started cleaning the hubs down as there was quite a bit of dirt, rust and old grease. The ABS sensors also needed a good clean as there was quite a bit of grit stuck in and around them.
I then started the job of changing the brake lines. First up were the rear lines as they looked the most tricky and time consuming as I needed to replace the hose from the hard line under the car to the rear beam, the hard line which runs across the rear beam and the hose from the rear beam to the caliper. The rear hose and even the hard line on the rear beam were quite quick and easy to remove and fit the new ones, however the connection between the hard line running under the car from the engine bay and the hose which goes to the rear beam was a complete pain in the arse to replace as firstly they are in very difficult places to get to unless the car is on a lift, secondly the clips holding the hoses in place to a support braket are a bugger to get off and were rusted up on mine, and thirdly the union on the hard line on the N/S had seized up completely so I couldn't undo it without also twisting the hard brake line! I did manage to get round this in the end by pushing the fixing through the support bracket and instead of unscrewing the union I just unscrewed the hose instead, sounds quite simple but this really did give me serious problems and robbed me of about an extra hour!
So some hours and plenty of brake fluid later the rear brake lines were finished, due to the amount of time it took me I decided not to bother with the fronts today and leave it to tomorrow.
Rear braided hose:
The new hard line running across the rear beam:
The pain in the arse mid section of hose which connects the hard lines under the car to the hard lines on the rear beams:
You can see the problem connection here, this was where I ended up having to push the hose connection down through the support bracket and untwist the short hose to release it. Also to fit the new hose section I had to do the reverse and twist the braided hose into the hard line fixing and then push it back up through the bracket rather than being able to tighten it up the normal way.
Day 4 (Saturday morning)
Hopefully the final day I'll spend under the car, all that's left to do now is to fit the braided hoses to the front brakes, fit the new discs & pads front and rear, fit the 312mm carriers and then bleed the lot.
Oh and of course get the car on the road, bed in the new brakes. 
I started by fitting the braided hoses to the front brakes, so much simpler than the rears as it's only one braided hose straight to the caliper. I think it took about 5 mins in total and lost about 10ml of brake fluid compared to about a litre from the rears! I removed the brake carriers and fitted the new 312mm freshly painted carriers and then fitted the new discs front and back, this is really easy to do and took about 15 minutes as you only have 1 screw on each disc to fit them. I also put a good coating of copper grease on everything before fitting so that everything shold come apart a lot easier next time.
It was then on to the fitting the new pads and putting the calipers on to the discs, again no problems at all and just followed the instructions in my Haynes manual for any details I wasn't sure of such as torque levels for the caliper guide pins.
Now all that was left was to bleed the system, for that I had the trusty Gunson Bleed Kit and 2 litres of VW brake fluid.
I'd done quite a bit of research when it comes to bleeding the brakes as it seems it can be either a pretty easy job or a complete mare, so I wanted to be prepared.
If I was lucky and hadn't got any air into the ABS system or master cylinder during the brake upgrade then it should be pretty simple, but if I had then it could be a real pain...
I started out bleeding as normal, starting with the longest brake line O/S Rear, then N/S Rear, then O/S Front and finally N/S Front. One of the important tips I'd been given was to keep hitting the caliper with a rubber mallet during bleeding to knock any trapped air out.
I started the bleeding and boy was there a lot of air in my lines, I used up over a litre just doing the rear brakes and the rubber mallet tip worked a treat as loads more air came out while banging them than did without it.
In the end I used up the full 2 litres bleeding the rears, fronts, clutch and the master cylinder. This included going round the calipers a second time just to make sure all the air was completely out.
I then put the wheels back on and took the car around the grounds a few times making sure I had a decent pedal feel before taking the car out on the road to bed the brakes in properly. I'd read a lot on how to bed brakes in and went for the route of quick bedding in, which consists of:
Get up to 60mph and then brake down hard (without activating ABS) to about 10mph, speed back up to 60mph and brake down to 10mph again. I continued this about 10 times making sure that at no point did I stop completely. This gets the brakes really hot and even to the point of smoking, once this regime of 10 hard braking sessions has been completed I then drove for about 20 minutes without using the brakes at all (as much as possible of course) to allow them to cool completely. I then repeated this process of 10 hard braking sessions one more time and allowed them to fully cool before heading home, and that's it brakes fully bedded in. The pedal feel was already good but over the next couple of days it did improve slowly becoming firmer and firmer. I will be carrying out another brake bleeding session once I've had a full week using the brakes just to make sure there is absolutely no air left and hopefully I can avoid having to use the VagCom ABS bleeding process all together.
Day 5 (Sunday)
Well there was me claiming it was all done and complete, I'd completely forgot to mention that I hadn't yet put the bumper back on yet and I hadn't mentioned the smoke.....
Well when I first took the car out to test the brakes and make sure everything was working properly I'd decided to leave the front bumper and engine undertray off just to make it easier if anything needed adjusting. When I'd been out in the car for its first couple of test runs I'd noticed a large amount of white/grey smoke when under 1900rpm and this worried me no end but as it was the weekend I was unable to get any advice from the turbo conversion company. Now other than the smoke at low revs the car was performing great with no lack of power and plenty of boost from the turbo, I just couldn't work out what was causing my smoke. Anyway I started a thread on the subject and it all looks like it will be sorted out once the custom mapping has been carried out next weekend down at ChippedUK, the thread can be seen here. Obviously if this doesn't cure it then I'll update the thread with the details. The next problem I'd come across was the refitting of the front bumper...
I fitted the Forge FMIC as per all the instructions provided and everything had seemed to go well up until the point of the bumper fitting back in place. I'd cut out all the necessary sections and trimmed back the sections around the grills using the cutout grills provided but when it came to getting the bumper back on it was a big no no... In the end I had to cut a lot more out of the back of the bumper than had been indicated and even then the position of the intercooler core and the pipe work coming from it didn't seem to match what was indicated in the instructions. I did get it on in the end but the lower central and drivers side grills still didn't really fit properly (they were a real squeeze to get into place) and the position of the lower intercooler pipe blocked access to one of the bumpers fixing screws which meant I ended up cross threading the screw to get it in!
I contacted Forge about the problems and unfortunately they are unable to explain the reasons for the poor fitment and they have suggested I visit them so they can have a look, something I'd be more than happy to do if they weren't about 350 miles away...
To add to the pain, a couple of days later I then discovered that the Forge FMIC has managed to put a hole in my aircon condenser and so the current situation is that my car is off the road getting the aircon repaired.
Hopefully though this will allow me to fix the problem of the poorly fitting intercooler as well. I'm hoping to move the radiator and the aircon condenser back into the engine bay by about 10-20mm to give the intercooler more room. This should have the double benefit of improving the fit of the bumper and grills, and preventing any future damage to my aircon. I'll also be fitting some padding behind the Forge intercooler to stop it rubbing against the aircon condenser, something I feel should have been provided in the first place which would have saved me a bill of about £150...
The thread regarding the problems with the Forge intercooler can be found here.
One good thing that's come out of the car going off the road again is that my mate who runs a bodyshop has had the chance to respray the front bumper and front & rear valances for me so hopefully she'll come out looking even better than ever. 
That's it folks, I hope you find this write up informative and even possibly helpful, I've rambled in many places and will try over the next few days to tidy it up a bit. If anyone has any specific questions about anything I've done please feel free to ask and I'll try to add all the relevant information to make things more clear.
The car is (or was before the aircon issue) running sweetly other than the smoke at low revs and I can testify that the power from the new hybrid MD376 stage 2 turbo is fantastic, even without being mapped and having come from a 185bhp TDI before hand I can say that this definitely has much more mid range UMPH, if you know what I mean..
The mapping should be completed by the 3rd of May and it will also have some rolling road figures to go along with my suplerlatives. I'm aiming for around 230bhp & 370lbft, but am secretly hoping for a possible 250bhp & 400lbft. It all depends on what ChippedUK can get out of the car whilst still giving me a nice easy driving and smoke free daily drive. I'd rather sacrifice a bit of power for no smoke and a reliable engine rather than be pushing the limits of the engine and the clutch.
Hopefully the prospective Derv V Pertol event will become a reality as it would be great to get together especially with the other hybrid Dervs out there, to see how we all compare and share our conversion tales, problems and achievements over a 1/4 mile.
Thanks for reading.
Cheers
Ryan