Hey guys ive done some searching and i havent been able to find a service guide that lists exactly what is needed and how to do it.
Hopefully with a little assistance from everyone here i aim to update this first post with pictures when i do mine so its a full diy guid for others on here who want to do it themselves.
Edit update April 2010 stolen from awesome lol
4 Cylinder Diesel - Interim Service (@10,000 miles)
* Oil and Oil Filter Change
* Top up of Fluid Levels
* Check over of Tyres
* Check over of Brakes
* Check operation of Lights/Wipers/Washers
4 Cylinder Diesel - Full Service (@20,000 miles)
* Oil and Oil Filter Change
* Air Filter Change
* Fuel Filter Change
* Top up of Fluid Levels
* Check over of Tyres
* Check over of Steering
* Check over Suspension
* Check over of Brakes
* Check operation of Lights/Wipers/Washers
* Lube service on Door/Boot/Bonnet Catches and Hinges
* Vagcom Full Diagnostic Scan
So far heres what ive been able to gather i need to change:
- Oil Filter
- Sump Plug
- Fuel Filter
- Cabin Filter
- Quantum Platinum 5-Litre PD Oil
- 2 x G12++ Coolant (1.5 litre which mixes to 3 litres 50/50 and i need 5 for the system)
Coolant Change:
How To Change Engine Coolant On A Vw (1998 - On) :
- When the engine has cooled down, remove the Vw coolant tank cap.
- Draining the Vw coolant from the cooling system:
Remove the lower radiator drain plug from the lower front of the radiator (Vw A4, Vw Passat). Remove the passenger side lower radiator hose. Remove the outer Vw coolant hose that connects to the oil cooler. To drain the heater core you'll need to remove the hose on the coolant flange or transfer pipe located on the back side of the engine. This hose goes from the cylinder head to the heater core.
- After the system is done draining, put the Vw coolant tank cap back on. Carefully work off and remove the smallest hose that is connected to the top of the Vw coolant tank. Be careful, the tank nipple likes to crack and break off.
- With a blow gun and compressed air on low, carefully insert the blow nozzle into the small hose. Wearing safety goggles, carefully force the air out so that any Vw coolant that's still trapped in the cooling system is released.
- Reinstall the Vw coolant drain plug. Reinstall the coolant tank hose(s). Fill the Vw cooling system with distilled water. Start the car and air bleed the cooling system as outlined in the factory Bentley manual. Run the car until the cooling fan comes on.
- Repeat steps 1 through 5 until the water comes out clean.
- Verify that you have the correct anti-phospate anti-amine G11 or G12 Vw coolant. If it's full concentrate, mix a 50/50 ratio per the Bentley manual. Fill your Vw cooling system with this 50/50 mixture. Note: Some factory Vw coolants sold by dealers are already premixed and do not require further delusion.
- Run the engine and check for any Vw coolant leaks.
- Top off the coolant tank to the fill line. Do not overfill.
- Using a permanent marker, write 'G11 or G12 Coolant Only' on the Vw coolant tank.
- Be environmentally responsible and dispose of your old Vw coolant properly.
Ive read this is where the tap is located that i need to release.
Oil Change + Oil Filter Guide: Extraction Method (with video)
On a 1.9 PD use an oil extractor instead of dropping the undershield and taking out the sump plug, reason being, you can pull another 1/4 pint or so of oil out of the oil cooler that otherwise would not come out.
Below, my Pella
Below is where you need to poke the extractor tube to get the excess oil out (car is a Passat but same oil filter assembly)
Below is the residual oil volume..
Some of you may oom and arh about using an oil extractor, but you will get more oil out and it is far far quicker and easier. The only painful bit is splashing out the £40 in the first place for a Pella.
Oil Change Guide: Sump plug method
OIL - Run the engine to get the car warm so the oil comes out easier. Now remove the cap where you fill it first, then get under the car, remove all the wee torque screws holding the plastic underguard thing on, and leave the underneath exposed. remove screw from the sump, and allow oil to drain.
for the oil filter, it's located underneath the acoustic cover right at the front. very easy to change - simply unscrew the top of it off, and 
only the filter part on the inside is replaced it's the easiest oil filter you'll ever replace!
Again please be responsible and take the oil to your recycling centre and do not just pour it down a drain on your road.
Fuel Filter Guide (i have a video which im gonna upload to youtube and link here)
Diesel fuel is filtered through a combination filter and water separator. The water collection chamber is in the lower portion of the unit, and the filter medium is in the upper portion. There is a drain in the bottom of the water separator to permit removal of any accumulated moisture without the need to remove the unit. This drain should be opened to drain any collected water at periodic intervals. The entire unit of filter and separator should be replaced periodically. The capacity of the filter/separator is relatively large in comparison to typical gasoline filters. It may be desired to pre-fill the new unit with Diesel fuel before installation to minimize starting hesitation.
The change interval for the fuel filter is either 48,000 km / 30,000 miles, or 32,000 km / 20,000 miles, depending on model. Consult your owners manual for your specific vehicle.
The filter is a cylinder-shaped housing with hoses going into the top, easily visible at the extreme right of the engine compartment. It's possible to change the filter yourself. Make sure you have a supply of suitable clamps before you start the job, and also find some way to pre-fill the filter housing completely with diesel fuel before hooking everything up again, otherwise you'll have an awful time getting the engine to keep running until all the air is worked out of the system.
- Using pliers, pinch and slide hose clips away from filter (about 1 1/2in from hose ends) of fuel feed lines. Fuel feed is traceable back to a black line from the tank.
- Use needlenose pliers and pull out (sideways, towards engine) return line clip for tee-piece. The tee-piece pulls straight up out of filter. The return line line is traceable back to a blue line from the tank. Wrap the tee-piece with a clean cloth or paper towell to protect from dirt.
- Push (do not pull!) feed lines off the filter nipples (flat screwdriver blade helps). Wrap the ends with paper towells to protect from dirt. Use a Phillips screwdriver and release fuel filter clamp (vertical screw beside filter), holding filter from slipping down. Observe the positioning of the filter nipples.
- Gently lift filter straight up out of the car. Do not tip, as fuel may spill.
- To drain the filter, on the bottom of the filter should be a knurled knob. Hold over a glass jar and unscrew (counter clockwise viewed from bottom) slowly. There is a nipple here where you can attach a short drain hose to avoid spilling. Try to contain drained fuel to a glass jar (old widemouth jam jar). This way you can see if there was water in filter. Drain about two ounces of fuel, and look for water droplets (may appear as beads, as water and diesel do not mix).
- Note that if you are draining and not replacing the filter, it is not necessary to disconnect the hoses; the filter can be unclamped and lifted up enough to access the knurled knob. THIS KNOB IS VERY FRAGILE. Don't break it off if you are going to be re-using the filter!
- Some analysis of the quantity of water in the filter is in order. It is determined by several factors, e.g. condensation in the tank, use of fuel treatments, and especially by your fuel supplier. If you buy fuel from the same place all the time, it may be usefull to check for water after say the first 5000kms as a safeguard to see what your supplier is giving you. If you see lots of water you may want to change to a different supplier. Stay well away from old barrels found lying in a field.
- Set the old one aside and get the new one out now and install. Watch the orientation of the nipples. Tighten clamp you loosened in step 3 above.
- Before you plug back on the return line tee-piece, it is wise to prime the filter with some CLEAN diesel fuel, and/or some straight fuel system cleaner. Failure to so do may result in a long cranking time before the engine starts, especially at lower temperatures.
- Replace hoses, clamps and clip, then test engine.
- 7.b.9 Once engine is running, look at the "sight tube", i.e. clear line from filter to engine (if so equipped) - you may see air bubbles. They should almost dissappear, but there will still be a few after running for a while.
- Note: If you have a gross amount of air bubbles, there may be an air leak in the fuel supply side (or the tee-piece), and it may impact engine performance. Check hose fittings, connectors, especially the return line plastic Tee-fitting (has an O-ring) where it plugs on to the filter with the retaining spring clip.
Cabin/Pollen Filter Guide (video)
Air Filter Change (video)
Service Schedule
Im sure ive missed some parts for the TDI off the lsit but im unsure can anyone tell me what ive missed.
Please help me complete this with your guides etc guys. and mods can this be made a sticky?
Thanks
Lowell