.....by a couple of mm.

Is it just a case of loosening the bolts VERY SLIGHTLY where the hinges bolt onto the door and putting a jack under the bottom edge of the door?

Chris.

Anyone?

Chris.

 I believe its a case of loosening the lower hinge bolts from inside the car then adjusting and re tightening. Some people are just brave and place a trolly jack under the door with a block of wood to protect the door, they do this with the door slightly open. You can buy a snap on tool to adjust the door for around £50 also.

I've got to do mine when I get round to it.

p.s Manual says replace the door bolts if you loosen them. 

dieselpowered:

 p.s Manual says replace the door bolts if you loosen them. 

Thank you,can anyone confirm this is because they use stretch bolts and what would happen if you reuse the old ones?

Chris.

Chris, the clue is in the name of the bolts....

No, seriously, these type of bolts always create debate as to whether you can or cannot use them again - much like brake caliper bolts...

Personally, for the sake of a couple of quid I'd renew them - you'll more than likely get a repeat of your problem if you re-use the existing ones - not so bad on your door but I'd never re-use caliper bolts (why do you think they give you new ones of them in the box with new pads......?)

 I used the above brave method, just jacked it up, Did this about 6 months ago and all is still fine.

Wasn't too worried as I have to get a new door anyway from a previous bump

get 2 people, 2 strong people

open the door slightly and put the window right down, you need to try and keep the door as closed as poss with out the latch catching, this allows the hinge adjustment to work

now both of you get to the rear edge of the door one inside the window frame and one at the bottom edge of the door and you both need to lift at the same time, i.e lifting the rear of the door towards the roof

it will take some lifting and might well seem like it isnt having any effect

might take a few attempts to get it spot on but saves a hell of a lot of messing about undoing bolts etc

we do this all the time in work when doors drop

as i say tho make sure there are 2 of you, i tried it a while ago on my own and put my back out for about 2 months

Chrisdut:

i tried it a while ago on my own and put my back out for about 2 months

Why not just use a jack?

Mav18t:

Chrisdut:

i tried it a while ago on my own and put my back out for about 2 months

Why not just use a jack?

+1 used a jack many times with a rubber block or piece of wood without loosening bolts.

Also seen many approved bodyshops also do it this way.

Mav18t:

Chrisdut:

i tried it a while ago on my own and put my back out for about 2 months

Why not just use a jack?

cant use a jack on a toaureg door as the bottom is plastic

might try it on the next mk4 but just think it could damage the door if it slips etc

Thanks everyone,think I'll rout a groove into a block of softwood and use the jack method.

Chris.

Let us know how you get on Chris as I need to sort out my drivers door as well.

Chrisdut:

get 2 people, 2 strong people

open the door slightly and put the window right down, you need to try and keep the door as closed as poss with out the latch catching, this allows the hinge adjustment to work

now both of you get to the rear edge of the door one inside the window frame and one at the bottom edge of the door and you both need to lift at the same time, i.e lifting the rear of the door towards the roof

it will take some lifting and might well seem like it isnt having any effect

might take a few attempts to get it spot on but saves a hell of a lot of messing about undoing bolts etc

we do this all the time in work when doors drop

as i say tho make sure there are 2 of you, i tried it a while ago on my own and put my back out for about 2 months

I took my old car to a garage about this problem,they did the exact as above...My chin hit the floorto be fair it did work..Was a brown trouser moment thou.lol

well tried the ramp leg and wooden block method under my drivers door today, worked like a treat

no more bad backs for me lol

 so does this solve the problem of the door not closing without slamming it...

u literally put the jack and wood block under the door and pump it up slow...... no slackening bolts or anything?

door closed as much as possi or.....

thanks

Andy

to find out if the door need lifting, kneel down next to the closed door, and pull the handle to open the door, while doing so look at the door lines to see if you notice the door drop as it opens, then try it the other way to see if it lifts up as it close's

if it does then it needs adjusting, and yeah as you say, door closed as poss and jack the door only up at the rear edge, took me 2 attempts to get it spot on but all is super smashing great now

 but im guessing dnt jack it too far lol

if you jack it up to high, hang your weight on the top of the door to pull it down again, it will sone become obvious dude

Had to loosen off the top bolt by about a turn,jack and block of wood under the back of the door and now it's spot on,the longest part of the job was adjusting the striker plate.

Chris.

Imagewerx:

.....by a couple of mm.

Is it just a case of loosening the bolts VERY SLIGHTLY where the hinges bolt onto the door and putting a jack under the bottom edge of the door?

Chris.

May I ask how you noticed that it dropped a couple of mm's? Was it that the door became very hard to open/close etc.? or creaking noises occuring?

Thanks

Luke