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#1 NooNoo

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Posted 16 April 2009 - 04:07 PM

K03s Fitting / K03s DIY Guide / How to (aids search) 


As I couldn't find a guide for this I thought I would try and encourage others to DIY this little task!
First I will deal with the parts required. Some of these parts are in case things "go wrong" and will save
you having a laid up car. This is easily achievable in a full day for a reasonably handy person. Bear in
mind this was swapping a k03s onto an k03 equipped AGU. Another person to help will greatly reduce the time
taken. My advice is to find a suitable muppet to keep you company!


Parts


VW Stuff


Qty                              Part number                       Description                                    Use


1                                 06A115561B                      Oil filter                                           Essential - oil change
1                                 N90813202                        Sump plug                                      Essential - oil change
1                                 N/A                                     5L Oil (personal pref)                     Essential - oil change


1                                 058145757A                      Sump oil return gasket                   Essential - turbo
1                                 058145757C                      Turbo oil return gasket                  Essential - turbo
1                                 1J0253115R                      Downpipe gasket                           Essential - turbo
1                                 06A253039E                      Exhaust mani / turbo gasket          Essential - turbo
7                                 N0138149                          Coolant sealing washer                  Essential - turbo
6                                 N0138128                          Oil banjo sealing washer                Essential - turbo
4                                 N10209009                        Downpipe nuts                               Essential - turbo


1                                 ?????????                        G12 Coolant additive                     Essential - coolant


1                                 058253039L                      Exhaust manifold gasket                Emergency (IMHO essential).
3                                 058145540                        Exhaust mani / turbo bolts             Emergency
13                               N90200201                        Exhaust manifold nuts                   Emergency (IMHO essential).
4                                 N90767801                       Turbo / downpipe stud                   Emergency


Obviously you will need a k03s turbo, easily identified by 8 vanes instead of the k03 12 vane setup.


If you have a k03s with a silencer you will need an additional turbo elbow outlet hose 06A 145 832M.


The silenced k03s has a smaller diameter outlet pipe (the silencer is a unsightly bulge in the outlet pipe).


You may need to trim the 'charge pipe heatshield & upper clamp holder' to accomodate the bulge.


Non-VW Stuff


4                                                                           9-11mm Fuel line clamps               Essential
2                                                                           DV hose size jubilee clips              Essential - charge pipe
1                                                                           Syringe                                          Useful - oil priming


Worth having a s election of Jubilee clips to hand.




Tools


Do not attempt this unless you have a fairly comprehensive tool kit in case things go wrong!
Anyway here is a list...


Essential


1 x 3/8ths socket set including a rachet. 10mm, 13mm, 14mm, 16mm and 17mm sockets regularly used.
2 x 3/8ths long extension bars
1 x 3/8ths short extension bar
1 x 3/8ths universal joint
1 x Hex bit set including 3/8ths holder. Bits 5-8mm regularly used. 8mm ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL.
1 x 17mm open ended spanner
1 x Short stubby flatblade


This is by no means exhaustive, but without the above you will find it VERY hard.





Procedure.


I recommend starting this early AM if you are trying to complete in a day. I started at 8am.
Some of these tasks I'll assume you know what you are doing and describe them very briefly.
With all jobs something usually goes wrong but I will try and make some helpful hints along
the way.


Step 1.



  • Take some digital camera pics topside of "plumbing" around DV etc.


This may help if you forget the routing of a pipe when re-assembling. Do this now as your hands are clean!


Step 2.



  • Drain the oil and replace the oil filter and sump plug. Do NOT refill with oil for obvious reasons!



Step 3.



  • Remove the offside inner CV joint heat/grease shield. Two 16mm bolts. Store.



Step 4.



  • Detach the downpipe.


For me this was quite painful as you cannot remove the downpipe without
the middle section being removed. Do what you need to do to get the downpipe out of the way.
This probably means disconnecting the centre pipe from the "over the rear beam" pipe near
the back of the car and removing the centre exhaust support plate. Jiggle the downpipe flange
through the hole above the subframe and bulkhead heatshielding it does go through!
No need to disconnect the lambda probe unless you're desperate to (22mm).


Please be aware that an AGU running the original OEM exhaust is going to really tough to drop the downpipe out of the way.
The centre sleeve to the rear section will be seized solid. Please consider how you are going to remove the downpipe / exhaust.
first as getting the turbo out 'easily' really needs this out the way. Better still get a new turbo back exhuast
prior to doing this work.


Note: If you remove the exhaust manifold later, the turbo can come out the top therefore dropping the exhaust completely isn't
absolutely necessary


Exhaust centre support bracket...



Flange [:o]



Dropped Blueflame...



 


Step 5.



  • Now remove a hidden bolt that braces the lower part of the turbo (13mm). It's a bit
    awkward but managable (see pic for approx position).

  • Slacken jubilee clip on TIP, turbo end. Flatblade.

  • Remove turbo oil return at sump end (10mm). Be prepared for a few drips of oil. Put the
    10mm bolts back in place hanging the old gasket (so you know what gasket to use later

  • Slacken in a controlled manner the coolant return banjo attached to the block (8mm hex). Be ready for purple
    showers! Have a bucket or tray handy, expect to lose about 4 litres of coolant. Don't
    swallow it and leave to drain.

  • Alternatively drain the coolant from the drain tap located on the bottom of the radiator near the lower hose exit.


Purple showers... or drain properly via radiator tap.



Step 6.



  • Go topside and dismantle the whole of the TIP area. I removed the DV and rebreather from the TIP but you don't have to. My advice is to leave the DV and rebreather inserted in the TIP but remove all other connections.

  • Remove the N75 from the TIP but don't remove any other pipes from it. Disconnect the electrical connection.

  • Extract the TIP from the car.

  • Remove the heatshield blanket from the right hand side of the charge pipe.
    Undo the jubilee clips on the charge pipe and the turbo outlet. Remove the hose.

  • Remove the 2 x charge pipe clamps (10mm) located directly behind coilpack 2 and down behind near the brake servo.

  • Remove the heatshield and charge pipe upper clamp holder, one bolt on the clamp itself, the other back right side of block.


Ignore some of image content, I did this blundering around. So if you see stuff in pics that you have already removed your doing fine!


Yes I know this is the wrong TIP for an AGU [;)]


Strip down topside...



Ouch fibre glass...



Remove charge pipe clamps...



Turbo outlet hose removal...


 


Heatshield and upper charge pipe clamp removal...



Heatshield and upper charge pipe clamp removal...



Step 7.



  • Pop underneath and remove the heatshield blanket on the lower part of the charge pipe (hopefully the coolant will have finished draining). Undo the jubilee clip.

  • Remove the charge pipe.

  • Remove the coolant banjo bolt completely, removing the old stuck washer from the
    block.

  • Remove the 3 manifold to turbo fixing bolts. I managed to use the rachet on the rear two bolts (17mm) but needed an open ended spanner for the one closest to the engine.


The turbo is now being supported on the oil and coolant feed lines.


Charge pipe lower jubilee...



A banjo bolt...



Step 8.




  • On the coolant feed line round the back of the block there is a support bracket that is held by
    a 10mm short bolt (see pic in step 7). Remove this. I also removed the coolant feed hose from
    the T-piece.




  • On the front of the block remove the turbo oil feed banjo from the top of the oil filter (8mm hex).
    Look out for loose washers.




  • Next to the oil feed banjo is a support bracket that is welded to the oil feed pipe. Remove the hex
    bolt (6mm?). This is not easy. See pics for my multi-extended access method.




Turbo oil feed (filter end)...



Access through inlet manifold gap...



Tricky access...



Turbo coolant feed hose...



Step 9.



  • Remove the exhaust manifold if you didn't get the exhaust downpipe out the way. Time consuming 13 nuts and poor access.

  • On the oil feed pipe there is support bracket attached to the turbo near the inlet, with
    a hex bolt, remove this (see pic). Another person to support the turbo at this point would be useful.

  • Remove both coolant and oil banjos, rescuing old washers.


The turbo should now be LOOSE! Extract the turbo from the underside with some weird manipulation! It will squeeze through between the subframe and driveshaft.


If you left the downpipe in place then the turbo will need to come out topside (but you must have removed the exhaust manifold).


The final banjos...



Wotnots...


 


Crafty oil feed support...


 


Step 10.


Hopefully you should now have the turbo in front of you. Take some side by side pics for the memory!



  • Only transplant what you need to on the turbo being fitted. Leave already solid oil or water connections alone (as long as the banjo and gaskets look sound). Don't do work for the sake of it, every connection that is remade has the possibiity of leaking and affecting reliability. 


Note: The oil and coolant banjo washers are different sizes, beware!


Side by side... [H]



Alot of space now... [:|]


 


Step 11.



  • Bung up the turbo oil and coolant feed holes with something to stop dirt ingress. Be careful not to use something that "breaks up".

  • Manipulate the turbo into approximate position from the underside.

  • Remove dirt ingress protection and use syringe to prime oil feed (hole nearest block).To be honest the feed holds about a thimble full of oil... your choice!

  • Using new washers re-attach the oil feed banjo and refit the hex bracket support bolt near the turbo inlet. Tricky point getting threaded.

  • Refit the coolant feed, I did not use new washers, I couldn't get the old ones off so
    I figured it was best left alone. Tricky point getting threaded.

  • Double check the banjos are tight NOW (8mm hex). I did it by feel, no torque wrench. I would
    avoid a torque wrench here, to strip the threads would be a total disaster. I trusted
    my own judgement. This is your last chance to inspect and tighten.

  • Weird I know but now refit the TIP while the turbo can move about slightly! This saves
    frustration later! Remember the jubilee clip but don't tighten it!

  • Re-slide the coolant feed support bracket onto the support mounted on the engine
    block (10mm short bolt). This will help support the turbo. Do not tighten this up.



Step 12.



  • Reconnect the coolant feed hose to the t-piece topside.

  • Refit the exhaust manifold using new gasket and nuts, Time consuming and fiddley.

  • Refit the 3 manifold to turbo bolts using the new gasket. This was tricky, wasn't
    easy to get them threaded. A helper might be a bonus here to manipulate the turbo into
    exactly the right position. Use a torch to look down the manifold holes if necessary!
    Before the 3 bolts are totally tight go underneath and fit the "hidden" turbo support
    bolt loosely.

  • Tighten the 3 topside bolts and finish off with the hidden bolt.

  • Tighten the coolant feed support bracket (10mm short bolt that was not tightened in step 11).

  • Refit the banjo on the oil filter housing loosely with NEW washers.

  • Refit the banjo support bracket on the oil filter using access method previously shown
    in pics (loosely).

  • Now tighten oil filter banjo. Be careful not to overtighten. Now tighten the support bracket. 


Notice the TIP is fitted in the pics, fit it early while the turbo still has some movement.


Turbo to manifold refitting...



Limited access...



Step 14.



  • Refit the coolant return pipe using banjo and new washers to the engine block.

  • Refit the oil return pipe using a new gasket to the sump.


Step 15.



  • Refit heatshield and charge pipe upper clamp holder.

  • Refit the charge pipe loosely using clamps.

  • Refit lower charge pipe hose, tightening jubilee clip and restore heat blanket.

  • Refit upper charge pipe hose, tightening jubilee clips and restoring heat blanket.


Refitting the heatshield and charge pipe upper clamp...



Clamps... exciting eh?



Charge pipe refit...



Refitting downunder...



Step 16.




  • Refit everything topside to the TIP. DV pipes, Oil breather, N75 electical connection etc.
    Retighten everything. Consider everything that has been removed. Consult digital camera pics if required.




At some points during this procedure you will have had to remove some VW hose clips. Use jubilee clips where necessary.


Step 17.




  • After checking you refitted the sump plug fill with 4.5l of oil.




  • Remove the coolant expansion tank cap and fill to max with G12.




Step 18.




  • Refit the downpipe (using new nuts and gasket) and exhaust middle section. Easier said than done.
    Could end up being total refit front to back... you have been warned!




Step 19.




  • Inspect everything! Ensure there are no parts left over! Check and triple check. As a minimum examine all banjos.




Step 20.



  • Start the car. Let the car idle for several minutes topping up the coolant when required. When you have used the whole bottle of G12 use water. When you are satisfied enough coolant has been replaced refit the expansion tank cap.


OBVIOUSLY IF THERE IS A LEAK OR THE ENGINE DOESN'T SOUND RIGHT SWITCH OFF IMMEDIATELY AND INVESTIGATE!!


Step 21.




  • Testdrive locally being gentle listening for "new" noises.




Step 22.



  • Have a beer with you mate and consider how much money you've saved for a remap!


Here comes the disclaimer...


I TAKE ABSOLUTELY NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR DAMAGE TO PROPERTY OR PERSONS USING THIS GUIDE!
You DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK.


Have fun and drive easy with the k03s fitted on a k03 map.


[:)]


Notes:


Step 13 delibrately left out, call me superstitious!


Mk4 Golf 1.8T AGU | 232Bhp | Rtech map | k03s | Blueflame turbo-back exhaust | K & N panel | SFS / Forge hoses | TurboRevs SMIC | VR6 Clutch | SMF | Saikou Michi | JOMs | S3 braces | Eibach ARBs | All SuperPro / Powerflex bushes | 312mm/256mm brakes | 18" BBS RCs | Rline rear | R32 front | Hoefle skirts | OEM Xenons | Retrofit heated seats | One touch rear demister | W8 Interior light | Sunroof | Other halfs daily

Mk5 Golf 2.0 ED30 | 230Bhp | Xenons | Luxury pack 2 | Privacy glass | Sunroof | Full airbags | My occasional



#2 xs2man

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Posted 16 April 2009 - 04:11 PM

Nice work.  Was wishing some-one had done this before my conversion.  Keep it up...



#3 spawn

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Posted 16 April 2009 - 05:02 PM

 nice one, a couple months to late for me..lol


took me 4hrs to get the flipping turbo off! damm oil and water lines.


i found that removing drivers side driveshaft was usefull and gives u alot more room.



#4 NooNoo

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Posted 16 April 2009 - 05:47 PM

I didn't find access a problem really, not from the underside. There is just so much to do, I originally thought I would remove it out topside but it's easy enough to remove between the driveshaft and the bulkhead.


I need to label the pics and add embedded text describing my "naming convention". As the text rambles a little at the moment.


[:)]


Mk4 Golf 1.8T AGU | 232Bhp | Rtech map | k03s | Blueflame turbo-back exhaust | K & N panel | SFS / Forge hoses | TurboRevs SMIC | VR6 Clutch | SMF | Saikou Michi | JOMs | S3 braces | Eibach ARBs | All SuperPro / Powerflex bushes | 312mm/256mm brakes | 18" BBS RCs | Rline rear | R32 front | Hoefle skirts | OEM Xenons | Retrofit heated seats | One touch rear demister | W8 Interior light | Sunroof | Other halfs daily

Mk5 Golf 2.0 ED30 | 230Bhp | Xenons | Luxury pack 2 | Privacy glass | Sunroof | Full airbags | My occasional


#5 skate_hardcore18

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Posted 16 April 2009 - 06:17 PM

fairplay NooNoo. great writeup, im sure this is going to help a lot of people. im going to be using it too help me on my KO4 upgrade. cheers



#6 weaver

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Posted 17 April 2009 - 02:59 AM

Excellent guide matey [H]


It's not so bad is it though? Yes there is a lot to do but it's not beyond anyone with a bit of mechanical aptitude [:)]


 



#7 calimori

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Posted 17 April 2009 - 10:10 AM

This is a bit like car porn really. Great pictures and good write up, well done for doing it yourself. [;)]



#8 mr_wigster

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Posted 17 April 2009 - 10:25 AM

Great guide and thanks for taking the time to compile it for everyone.  [B]  Good work in undertaking the job yourself too.  [:)]

Wigster. 



#9 NooNoo

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Posted 17 April 2009 - 12:04 PM

Well, I've now updated the pics which should help people understand my terminology!


I have many more pics if anyone has any special requests in full 7MP detail (the turbo side by sides are total PORN).


Looking back it all seems really simple, but at the time I was "apprehensive".


I can thoroughly recommend it, as weaver said it's not that hard. Just time consuming.


If there are any questions don't hesitate to ask!


[:D]


Mk4 Golf 1.8T AGU | 232Bhp | Rtech map | k03s | Blueflame turbo-back exhaust | K & N panel | SFS / Forge hoses | TurboRevs SMIC | VR6 Clutch | SMF | Saikou Michi | JOMs | S3 braces | Eibach ARBs | All SuperPro / Powerflex bushes | 312mm/256mm brakes | 18" BBS RCs | Rline rear | R32 front | Hoefle skirts | OEM Xenons | Retrofit heated seats | One touch rear demister | W8 Interior light | Sunroof | Other halfs daily

Mk5 Golf 2.0 ED30 | 230Bhp | Xenons | Luxury pack 2 | Privacy glass | Sunroof | Full airbags | My occasional


#10 calimori

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Posted 17 April 2009 - 12:39 PM

I have many more pics if anyone has any special requests in full 7MP detail (the turbo side by sides are total PORN).

Indeed they are, you can see the compressor blades and see how many are on each type of turbo. Lovely shot. [B]



#11 Collie

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Posted 17 April 2009 - 12:47 PM

 good work, doing mine soon,



#12 dazmmgg

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Posted 17 April 2009 - 01:29 PM

Nice 1, can the k03s turbo be fitted on the ARZ bit unsure thats why i ask [:$]


 


Daz



#13 NooNoo

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Posted 17 April 2009 - 06:32 PM

That's a question you can't ask.. I don't know! [:$]


If an ARZ is fitted with a k03 then YES.


[Y]


Mk4 Golf 1.8T AGU | 232Bhp | Rtech map | k03s | Blueflame turbo-back exhaust | K & N panel | SFS / Forge hoses | TurboRevs SMIC | VR6 Clutch | SMF | Saikou Michi | JOMs | S3 braces | Eibach ARBs | All SuperPro / Powerflex bushes | 312mm/256mm brakes | 18" BBS RCs | Rline rear | R32 front | Hoefle skirts | OEM Xenons | Retrofit heated seats | One touch rear demister | W8 Interior light | Sunroof | Other halfs daily

Mk5 Golf 2.0 ED30 | 230Bhp | Xenons | Luxury pack 2 | Privacy glass | Sunroof | Full airbags | My occasional


#14 UltimateDubs_0116

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Posted 17 April 2009 - 06:47 PM

 Looks good



#15 cbayuk

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Posted 18 April 2009 - 10:39 AM

Would this be the simular way to do a MK5?



#16 NooNoo

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Posted 18 April 2009 - 10:59 AM

The mk5 will be different, locations of fixings etc but essentially the same components exist.


I hadn't a clue and managed it, at least this gives you some idea!


I saw your turbo had expired [:(]


Certainly don't go to a dealership they will absolutely rape you. Ebay the turbo and DIY fit.


It is a long job, but as your car is off the road anyway you can take your time to some degree.


Presuming you have alternative transport or are managing somehow?


Maybe a local forum member can help?


[:)]


Mk4 Golf 1.8T AGU | 232Bhp | Rtech map | k03s | Blueflame turbo-back exhaust | K & N panel | SFS / Forge hoses | TurboRevs SMIC | VR6 Clutch | SMF | Saikou Michi | JOMs | S3 braces | Eibach ARBs | All SuperPro / Powerflex bushes | 312mm/256mm brakes | 18" BBS RCs | Rline rear | R32 front | Hoefle skirts | OEM Xenons | Retrofit heated seats | One touch rear demister | W8 Interior light | Sunroof | Other halfs daily

Mk5 Golf 2.0 ED30 | 230Bhp | Xenons | Luxury pack 2 | Privacy glass | Sunroof | Full airbags | My occasional


#17 cbayuk

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Posted 18 April 2009 - 05:42 PM

Cheers NooNoo. :-) I really need to get it done this week to be honest. But we shall see.



#18 golf_20v_turbo

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Posted 18 April 2009 - 06:01 PM

Cheers NooNoo. :-) I really need to get it done this week to be honest. But we shall see.

where you based mate ? theres a place here in birmingham witch charge £400-450 to remove ,recon and refit the turbo with a 2 day turn around if any good to you



#19 ryanGTI

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Posted 20 April 2009 - 04:02 PM

top guide cheers matey!



#20 Dub303

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Posted 22 April 2009 - 05:29 AM

Excellent guide NooNoo. Still scares me, but maybe one day !   [Y]


How does she feel since the swap?
I see you have an Rtech map already, will you be having that tweeked again, and are you going fmic or keeping as is? 



#21 NooNoo

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Posted 22 April 2009 - 06:35 AM

Engine wise it's staying "as is" now. It is the 2nd car so don't feel a need to make it better than the Ed! Can't have the GF beating me! So no FMIC. Just need to get my calipers painted and get some new alloys to complete the asthetics now [:)]


Don't be scared! In hindsight the job is quite easy, just a little daunting. There is just alot to do. The worst bit is refitting the exhaust after finishing the turbo as you just want to start her up!


I'm pretty sure you can get away with not removing the exhaust manifold and maybe missing out some other small details in the guide but I got to the point where I wanted "everything out". I hope people try and follow the guide and comment as it would be nice to know where time can be saved without suffering the "I can't fit this bl***y bolt it's too tricky" situation.


[:)]


Mk4 Golf 1.8T AGU | 232Bhp | Rtech map | k03s | Blueflame turbo-back exhaust | K & N panel | SFS / Forge hoses | TurboRevs SMIC | VR6 Clutch | SMF | Saikou Michi | JOMs | S3 braces | Eibach ARBs | All SuperPro / Powerflex bushes | 312mm/256mm brakes | 18" BBS RCs | Rline rear | R32 front | Hoefle skirts | OEM Xenons | Retrofit heated seats | One touch rear demister | W8 Interior light | Sunroof | Other halfs daily

Mk5 Golf 2.0 ED30 | 230Bhp | Xenons | Luxury pack 2 | Privacy glass | Sunroof | Full airbags | My occasional


#22 Dub303

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Posted 22 April 2009 - 08:53 AM

Engine wise it's staying "as is" now. It is the 2nd car so don't feel a need to make it better than the Ed! Can't have the GF beating me! So no FMIC. 

 

Ha, fair enough !   Its only pipe dreams at the moment, but seeing stuff like this makes me wonder. If my turbo ever needs replacing, I'll give it a go. I don't want the fmic and too old for a noisy exhaust (been there though!) and wondered what gains would be with maybe just another map + K03s. Mine should be around 190 at the moment with the K03 (though I'm sure its not as quick as it felt when I had it done!).

So how different does the K03s feel?



#23 coolagu

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Posted 22 April 2009 - 09:09 AM

Nice 1, can the k03s turbo be fitted on the ARZ bit unsure thats why i ask Embarrassed

 

Daz

 

Yes



#24 dazmmgg

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Posted 22 April 2009 - 10:01 AM

Nice 1, can the k03s turbo be fitted on the ARZ bit unsure thats why i ask Embarrassed

 

Daz

 

Yes

Great stuff, 1 for the future [:)]

 



#25 NooNoo

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Posted 22 April 2009 - 11:31 AM

Engine wise it's staying "as is" now. It is the 2nd car so don't feel a need to make it better than the Ed! Can't have the GF beating me! So no FMIC. 

 

Ha, fair enough !   Its only pipe dreams at the moment, but seeing stuff like this makes me wonder. If my turbo ever needs replacing, I'll give it a go. I don't want the fmic and too old for a noisy exhaust (been there though!) and wondered what gains would be with maybe just another map + K03s. Mine should be around 190 at the moment with the K03 (though I'm sure its not as quick as it felt when I had it done!).

So how different does the K03s feel?

The k03s is another leap like the original stage 1 generic map.

I had been running the "stage 2" bits on the k03 with a stage 1 map so I would have been wringing every ounce of power out of the k03. So I expect I was running close to 200bhp.

So "all" I am feeling is the k03s and stage 2 remap effects... a very worthwhile upgrade!

[:)]


Mk4 Golf 1.8T AGU | 232Bhp | Rtech map | k03s | Blueflame turbo-back exhaust | K & N panel | SFS / Forge hoses | TurboRevs SMIC | VR6 Clutch | SMF | Saikou Michi | JOMs | S3 braces | Eibach ARBs | All SuperPro / Powerflex bushes | 312mm/256mm brakes | 18" BBS RCs | Rline rear | R32 front | Hoefle skirts | OEM Xenons | Retrofit heated seats | One touch rear demister | W8 Interior light | Sunroof | Other halfs daily

Mk5 Golf 2.0 ED30 | 230Bhp | Xenons | Luxury pack 2 | Privacy glass | Sunroof | Full airbags | My occasional


#26 BadPuppet

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 04:41 AM

 Very good write up mate. Very impressed with the attention to detail.


What sort of price did it cost for all of the gaskets etc roughly.
One thought though nothing to do with this excellent guide, I can't see why the car would need to be mapped again, other than to get a bit more power out and use the turbo more efficiently. The N75 valve controls the requested and actual boost figures, so effectivley the turbo will only produce as much boost as the standard K03. Obviously it spools up quicker so fueling could need to be adjusted to suit, but I'm pretty sure that if the car has been mapped over standard then the car should run with the original tune and the new turbo.
This is more to do with people worrying about running the car on a map with the turbo changed. Obviously to get the full benefit the car needs mapping properly.


Just my thoughts (not looking for a flaming) What do others think?


Another quick thing, What other bits can be added to get more power - Injectors, MAF housing, 4bar FPR?? How much power will this give?



#27 NooNoo

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 07:02 AM

Hi BadPuppet [Y]


I will update the guide with prices for the parts early next week.


The k03s is slightly larger / more efficient than the k03 at producing boost, so for a given wastegate position (under n75 control) you will get more psi (I am pretty sure that statement is right). The k03s has to be better at producing boost as it maintains psi right up to the redline... whereas the k03 runs "out of puff". So for every turn of the rotar more air is moved.


Remember on an AGU there is no MAP sensor to feedback actual boost so it runs "open loop" to some degree. The ECU modulates the N75 expecting to get 15psi (for a stage 1 car) and gets 20psi! Then how should it fuel? It needs to know what duty cycle to run on the injectors for the additional air being blown into the engine. So although you can run a k03s on a map not designed for it you are ultimately best to get it remapped to fuel it right etc...


As for injectors, MAF, and 4 bar FPR you will probably need a custom remap. Some may have these maps "off the shelf" but remember  they have not been tested anything like the generic code that "most" people have. Generic maps have 1000s of hours of testing. There is something to be said for staying with standard "stage 2" parts. If you go with a custom map for your car there is no way of relating issues to other cars as it is totally bespoke. I'm sure you would get more performance but with many dyno runs and niggles.


These are just my thoughts [:)]


Hope this helps [Y]


Mk4 Golf 1.8T AGU | 232Bhp | Rtech map | k03s | Blueflame turbo-back exhaust | K & N panel | SFS / Forge hoses | TurboRevs SMIC | VR6 Clutch | SMF | Saikou Michi | JOMs | S3 braces | Eibach ARBs | All SuperPro / Powerflex bushes | 312mm/256mm brakes | 18" BBS RCs | Rline rear | R32 front | Hoefle skirts | OEM Xenons | Retrofit heated seats | One touch rear demister | W8 Interior light | Sunroof | Other halfs daily

Mk5 Golf 2.0 ED30 | 230Bhp | Xenons | Luxury pack 2 | Privacy glass | Sunroof | Full airbags | My occasional


#28 ryanGTI

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Posted 01 May 2009 - 01:19 PM

well the total i paid for all the nuts, bolts, gaskets, was £57.83



#29 Patch

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Posted 16 September 2009 - 01:45 PM

Is it worth getting new banjo bolts,or are they in that list?



#30 NooNoo

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Posted 16 September 2009 - 02:28 PM

Blimey some action on my "how to" [:D]


Hi Patch,


The banjo bolts aren't on the list. I think it would be a waste of money really. There are already quite a few items on the list you won't use if all goes well, I just can't think of a reason to replace them.


If anything I would buy an additional 4 oil seal washers. It all depends whether the turbo is bare of feed and return lines... as that dictates how many washers are required! I re-used the water feed washers as they were stuck firmly on the banjo bolt (see my "wotnots" picture, you can see the banjo bolt still on the coolant feed).


Are you doing this yourself?


[:)]


Mk4 Golf 1.8T AGU | 232Bhp | Rtech map | k03s | Blueflame turbo-back exhaust | K & N panel | SFS / Forge hoses | TurboRevs SMIC | VR6 Clutch | SMF | Saikou Michi | JOMs | S3 braces | Eibach ARBs | All SuperPro / Powerflex bushes | 312mm/256mm brakes | 18" BBS RCs | Rline rear | R32 front | Hoefle skirts | OEM Xenons | Retrofit heated seats | One touch rear demister | W8 Interior light | Sunroof | Other halfs daily

Mk5 Golf 2.0 ED30 | 230Bhp | Xenons | Luxury pack 2 | Privacy glass | Sunroof | Full airbags | My occasional





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