K03s Fitting / K03s DIY Guide / How to (aids search)
As I couldn't find a guide for this I thought I would try and encourage others to DIY this little task!
First I will deal with the parts required. Some of these parts are in case things "go wrong" and will save
you having a laid up car. This is easily achievable in a full day for a reasonably handy person. Bear in
mind this was swapping a k03s onto an k03 equipped AGU. Another person to help will greatly reduce the time
taken. My advice is to find a suitable muppet to keep you company!
Qty Part number Description Use
1 06A115561B Oil filter Essential - oil change
1 N90813202 Sump plug Essential - oil change
1 N/A 5L Oil (personal pref) Essential - oil change
1 058145757A Sump oil return gasket Essential - turbo
1 058145757C Turbo oil return gasket Essential - turbo
1 1J0253115R Downpipe gasket Essential - turbo
1 06A253039E Exhaust mani / turbo gasket Essential - turbo
7 N0138149 Coolant sealing washer Essential - turbo
6 N0138128 Oil banjo sealing washer Essential - turbo
4 N10209009 Downpipe nuts Essential - turbo
1 ????????? G12 Coolant additive Essential - coolant
1 058253039L Exhaust manifold gasket Emergency (IMHO essential).
3 058145540 Exhaust mani / turbo bolts Emergency
13 N90200201 Exhaust manifold nuts Emergency (IMHO essential).
4 N90767801 Turbo / downpipe stud Emergency
Obviously you will need a k03s turbo, easily identified by 8 vanes instead of the k03 12 vane setup.
If you have a k03s with a silencer you will need an additional turbo elbow outlet hose 06A 145 832M.
The silenced k03s has a smaller diameter outlet pipe (the silencer is a unsightly bulge in the outlet pipe).
You may need to trim the 'charge pipe heatshield & upper clamp holder' to accomodate the bulge.
4 9-11mm Fuel line clamps Essential
2 DV hose size jubilee clips Essential - charge pipe
1 Syringe Useful - oil priming
Worth having a s election of Jubilee clips to hand.
Do not attempt this unless you have a fairly comprehensive tool kit in case things go wrong!
Anyway here is a list...
1 x 3/8ths socket set including a rachet. 10mm, 13mm, 14mm, 16mm and 17mm sockets regularly used.
2 x 3/8ths long extension bars
1 x 3/8ths short extension bar
1 x 3/8ths universal joint
1 x Hex bit set including 3/8ths holder. Bits 5-8mm regularly used. 8mm ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL.
1 x 17mm open ended spanner
1 x Short stubby flatblade
This is by no means exhaustive, but without the above you will find it VERY hard.
I recommend starting this early AM if you are trying to complete in a day. I started at 8am.
Some of these tasks I'll assume you know what you are doing and describe them very briefly.
With all jobs something usually goes wrong but I will try and make some helpful hints along
- Take some digital camera pics topside of "plumbing" around DV etc.
This may help if you forget the routing of a pipe when re-assembling. Do this now as your hands are clean!
- Drain the oil and replace the oil filter and sump plug. Do NOT refill with oil for obvious reasons!
- Remove the offside inner CV joint heat/grease shield. Two 16mm bolts. Store.
- Detach the downpipe.
For me this was quite painful as you cannot remove the downpipe without
the middle section being removed. Do what you need to do to get the downpipe out of the way.
This probably means disconnecting the centre pipe from the "over the rear beam" pipe near
the back of the car and removing the centre exhaust support plate. Jiggle the downpipe flange
through the hole above the subframe and bulkhead heatshielding it does go through!
No need to disconnect the lambda probe unless you're desperate to (22mm).
Please be aware that an AGU running the original OEM exhaust is going to really tough to drop the downpipe out of the way.
The centre sleeve to the rear section will be seized solid. Please consider how you are going to remove the downpipe / exhaust.
first as getting the turbo out 'easily' really needs this out the way. Better still get a new turbo back exhuast
prior to doing this work.
Note: If you remove the exhaust manifold later, the turbo can come out the top therefore dropping the exhaust completely isn't
Exhaust centre support bracket...
Flange [ ]
- Now remove a hidden bolt that braces the lower part of the turbo (13mm). It's a bit
awkward but managable (see pic for approx position).
- Slacken jubilee clip on TIP, turbo end. Flatblade.
- Remove turbo oil return at sump end (10mm). Be prepared for a few drips of oil. Put the
10mm bolts back in place hanging the old gasket (so you know what gasket to use later
- Slacken in a controlled manner the coolant return banjo attached to the block (8mm hex). Be ready for purple
showers! Have a bucket or tray handy, expect to lose about 4 litres of coolant. Don't
swallow it and leave to drain.
- Alternatively drain the coolant from the drain tap located on the bottom of the radiator near the lower hose exit.
Purple showers... or drain properly via radiator tap.
- Go topside and dismantle the whole of the TIP area. I removed the DV and rebreather from the TIP but you don't have to. My advice is to leave the DV and rebreather inserted in the TIP but remove all other connections.
- Remove the N75 from the TIP but don't remove any other pipes from it. Disconnect the electrical connection.
- Extract the TIP from the car.
- Remove the heatshield blanket from the right hand side of the charge pipe.
Undo the jubilee clips on the charge pipe and the turbo outlet. Remove the hose.
- Remove the 2 x charge pipe clamps (10mm) located directly behind coilpack 2 and down behind near the brake servo.
- Remove the heatshield and charge pipe upper clamp holder, one bolt on the clamp itself, the other back right side of block.
Ignore some of image content, I did this blundering around. So if you see stuff in pics that you have already removed your doing fine!
Yes I know this is the wrong TIP for an AGU [;)]
Strip down topside...
Ouch fibre glass...
Remove charge pipe clamps...
Turbo outlet hose removal...
Heatshield and upper charge pipe clamp removal...
Heatshield and upper charge pipe clamp removal...
- Pop underneath and remove the heatshield blanket on the lower part of the charge pipe (hopefully the coolant will have finished draining). Undo the jubilee clip.
- Remove the charge pipe.
- Remove the coolant banjo bolt completely, removing the old stuck washer from the
- Remove the 3 manifold to turbo fixing bolts. I managed to use the rachet on the rear two bolts (17mm) but needed an open ended spanner for the one closest to the engine.
The turbo is now being supported on the oil and coolant feed lines.
Charge pipe lower jubilee...
A banjo bolt...
On the coolant feed line round the back of the block there is a support bracket that is held by
a 10mm short bolt (see pic in step 7). Remove this. I also removed the coolant feed hose from
On the front of the block remove the turbo oil feed banjo from the top of the oil filter (8mm hex).
Look out for loose washers.
Next to the oil feed banjo is a support bracket that is welded to the oil feed pipe. Remove the hex
bolt (6mm?). This is not easy. See pics for my multi-extended access method.
Turbo oil feed (filter end)...
Access through inlet manifold gap...
Turbo coolant feed hose...
- Remove the exhaust manifold if you didn't get the exhaust downpipe out the way. Time consuming 13 nuts and poor access.
- On the oil feed pipe there is support bracket attached to the turbo near the inlet, with
a hex bolt, remove this (see pic). Another person to support the turbo at this point would be useful.
- Remove both coolant and oil banjos, rescuing old washers.
The turbo should now be LOOSE! Extract the turbo from the underside with some weird manipulation! It will squeeze through between the subframe and driveshaft.
If you left the downpipe in place then the turbo will need to come out topside (but you must have removed the exhaust manifold).
The final banjos...
Crafty oil feed support...
Hopefully you should now have the turbo in front of you. Take some side by side pics for the memory!
- Only transplant what you need to on the turbo being fitted. Leave already solid oil or water connections alone (as long as the banjo and gaskets look sound). Don't do work for the sake of it, every connection that is remade has the possibiity of leaking and affecting reliability.
Note: The oil and coolant banjo washers are different sizes, beware!
Side by side... [H]
Alot of space now... [:|]
- Bung up the turbo oil and coolant feed holes with something to stop dirt ingress. Be careful not to use something that "breaks up".
- Manipulate the turbo into approximate position from the underside.
- Remove dirt ingress protection and use syringe to prime oil feed (hole nearest block).To be honest the feed holds about a thimble full of oil... your choice!
- Using new washers re-attach the oil feed banjo and refit the hex bracket support bolt near the turbo inlet. Tricky point getting threaded.
- Refit the coolant feed, I did not use new washers, I couldn't get the old ones off so
I figured it was best left alone. Tricky point getting threaded.
- Double check the banjos are tight NOW (8mm hex). I did it by feel, no torque wrench. I would
avoid a torque wrench here, to strip the threads would be a total disaster. I trusted
my own judgement. This is your last chance to inspect and tighten.
- Weird I know but now refit the TIP while the turbo can move about slightly! This saves
frustration later! Remember the jubilee clip but don't tighten it!
- Re-slide the coolant feed support bracket onto the support mounted on the engine
block (10mm short bolt). This will help support the turbo. Do not tighten this up.
- Reconnect the coolant feed hose to the t-piece topside.
- Refit the exhaust manifold using new gasket and nuts, Time consuming and fiddley.
- Refit the 3 manifold to turbo bolts using the new gasket. This was tricky, wasn't
easy to get them threaded. A helper might be a bonus here to manipulate the turbo into
exactly the right position. Use a torch to look down the manifold holes if necessary!
Before the 3 bolts are totally tight go underneath and fit the "hidden" turbo support
- Tighten the 3 topside bolts and finish off with the hidden bolt.
- Tighten the coolant feed support bracket (10mm short bolt that was not tightened in step 11).
- Refit the banjo on the oil filter housing loosely with NEW washers.
- Refit the banjo support bracket on the oil filter using access method previously shown
in pics (loosely).
- Now tighten oil filter banjo. Be careful not to overtighten. Now tighten the support bracket.
Notice the TIP is fitted in the pics, fit it early while the turbo still has some movement.
Turbo to manifold refitting...
- Refit the coolant return pipe using banjo and new washers to the engine block.
- Refit the oil return pipe using a new gasket to the sump.
- Refit heatshield and charge pipe upper clamp holder.
- Refit the charge pipe loosely using clamps.
- Refit lower charge pipe hose, tightening jubilee clip and restore heat blanket.
- Refit upper charge pipe hose, tightening jubilee clips and restoring heat blanket.
Refitting the heatshield and charge pipe upper clamp...
Clamps... exciting eh?
Charge pipe refit...
Refitting down under...
Refit everything topside to the TIP. DV pipes, Oil breather, N75 electical connection etc.
Retighten everything. Consider everything that has been removed. Consult digital camera pics if required.
At some points during this procedure you will have had to remove some VW hose clips. Use jubilee clips where necessary.
After checking you refitted the sump plug fill with 4.5l of oil.
Remove the coolant expansion tank cap and fill to max with G12.
Refit the downpipe (using new nuts and gasket) and exhaust middle section. Easier said than done.
Could end up being total refit front to back... you have been warned!
- Inspect everything! Ensure there are no parts left over! Check and triple check. As a minimum examine all banjos.
- Start the car. Let the car idle for several minutes topping up the coolant when required. When you have used the whole bottle of G12 use water. When you are satisfied enough coolant has been replaced refit the expansion tank cap.
OBVIOUSLY IF THERE IS A LEAK OR THE ENGINE DOESN'T SOUND RIGHT SWITCH OFF IMMEDIATELY AND INVESTIGATE!!
Testdrive locally being gentle listening for "new" noises.
- Have a beer with you mate and consider how much money you've saved for a remap!
Here comes the disclaimer...
I TAKE ABSOLUTELY NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR DAMAGE TO PROPERTY OR PERSONS USING THIS GUIDE!
You DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Have fun and drive easy with the k03s fitted on a k03 map.
Step 13 delibrately left out, call me superstitious!