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Golf Mk4 Boot Microswitch Replacement.


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#1 dantheman1981

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Posted 01 January 2010 - 10:03 AM

Hi guys.
Just a basic 'How To'. I've had my Golf nearly 2 months, and in that time all i've done is put right broken things right, and this is one of them. Basically, my trip computer should have shown this when the key was in the ignition and the boot opened:
IMG_3733.jpg
But it didn't. So after a bit of research, I found out that a dodgy wiper motor had been leaking into the latch on the bootlid frying the microswitch, which in turn was stopping the bootlight come on and the non display of the above message...
So, I called VW and found out what the part number and price was to repair this. You will however, have to disconnect/remove/fix your rear wiper motor before you do this reapir otherwise you'll end up needing to do this again. I repaired mine, but some may want to remove etc.
So, for this 'How To', you will need:

  • The boot latch, part no: 1J6 827 505 CB 41. Price (exc. VAT) is £24.46.
  • A Phillips screw driver, an mate Spline bit (like a Torx, but more edges), possibly a smaller flat bladed screwdriver and maybe some WD40.
  • Possibly this little plug, part no: 1J0 973 115. Price (exc. VAT) is £1.24. However, you can buy this part with about 1" of wiring coming out of it (not sure on part no) so you can splice the wires to the original loom, which is about £2-I would recommend that as it can be very fiddly.

1) Open the bootlid, and inside the grab handles are a single phillips screw, one each side. Remove.
IMG_3721.jpg
2) Prise the trim off. This can be quite tricky as the tabs holding it in are quite strong, plus remember, plastic can be very SHARP, so watch your fingers.
IMG_3722.jpg
3) Once the panel is removed, you will see the mechanism inside:
IMG_3737.jpg
Underneath the mechanism are the two pieces that need to be disconnected. One is the small metal arm that pulls the latch open/shut (right side), the other is the electrical connector (left side).
4) The metal arm needs to be removed before you undo any bolts. It's not too tricky. Just hook your finger around it and pull it out of the small white plastic pin that it's going through. Be careful not to bend it as it may require a little bit of force. Don't worry if the white plastic tab breaks as there is a new one on the new latch.
IMG_3729.jpg
5) Now you can unclip the wiring loom from the tabs holding the wire in place:
IMG_3738.jpg
6) Now use your mate bit to remove the latch from the bootlid:
IMG_3723.jpg IMG_3734.jpg
7) Now that the two bolts are out, you can pull the latch out and pull some of the wiring through. You will now be able to see the small connector going into the latch.
IMG_3724.jpg
8) This is where it can get tricky. The connector has a small tab on which needs to be levered to pull it out, however, depending on how long the switch has been soaking in screenwash will depend how easy it is/isn't to get out-the tab may be very brittle and could snap off (like mine!). Don't be tempted to just pull the wiring. This could yank all the wires out of the connector block, or even snap them. If you can't get it out, just give it a generous helping of WD40 and some wiggling and it should eventually come out (not like mine...[8-)] - see NB at foot of this page).
9) Once removed, you can see the difference:
IMG_3728.jpg
10) Before reassembly, check that it has worked! Hold the latch and connect the loom: the boot light should come on. If it doesn't, check the bulb is in or not blown. If I remember correctly it should light up without the key being in the ignition. Then, get a friend to hold the latch, ensuring the locking mechanism is flicked open, and jump in the drivers seat. Shut your door and turn the ignition on without starting the car. You should hear a small 'tone' and see this message on the on-board display:
IMG_3733.jpg
If it does, then you're ready to reassemble. If you don't, check that all the connections are clean. If it's all green (like mine was), then WD40 and a rag will get most of it off. It worked for me so should for you too. If it still doesn't work, then you may have a more deep seated issue that I can't help you with!
11) Clean up your connector, and start to reassemble in the reverse order, which goes like this:
Connect wire to latch > Bolt latch back to bootlid > Press metal arm back up through new white plastic hole (ensuring it goes through fully using the locating groove) > Put loom back into metal tabs > Replace boot trim > Replace Phillips screws in boot grabs.
And there you have it. I'm not sure if it's the same for cars without the on-board computer, but this is for cars with. I would imagine it's the same just minus the message, but you'd need to find that out first.
One of those satisfying jobs: it should work, so make it work! No point modifying a car if all the little bits aren't done first.
Hopefully it'll help some people. If i've left anything out let me know!
Dan
NB: I should note that the connector on mine was welded in with limescale, the tab on the block did snap, and so did the wire (no fault of my own, it was just so corroded and very very fragile). I have managed to sort a temporary wiring solution for the time being, but next time i'm at VW, i'll be finding out if the connector (see pic) is available to buy. I'll update this info as/when I have it.
IMG_3730.jpg
Can be purchased with about 1" of wire, which I would recommend (about £1 more).
IMG_3775.jpg


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#2 cpome7

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Posted 02 January 2010 - 05:12 AM

Thanks for posting this. I've just found it really helpful.


2 [Y] up from me!


Mike



#3 M4SKELL

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Posted 20 February 2010 - 01:38 PM

I've got this problem and have done since owning the car for nearly a year now. I've always been too hesitant thinking that VW will charge me 100 pounds to get the boot light working or whatever, I'll definitely be doing this when we get some nicer weather [Y]



#4 theshabster

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Posted 14 April 2010 - 07:05 AM

 Nice write up dude. I contacted VW, & they deny all knowledge of being able to source the plug part with the additional 1" of wiring. They have both the boot mechanism & the plug on their systems, but no sign of the plug with additional wiring (unless you pay £70 for the plug with full wiring harness).


 


My boot light has never worked, & I've never seen the 'Luggage comp. Open' message either, so sounds like I've the exact same issue as you had.


Should my 2000 GT TDi 115 have the 'Luggage comp. Open' message & icon?


 


 



#5 dantheman1981

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Posted 14 April 2010 - 12:44 PM

 Nice write up dude. I contacted VW, & they deny all knowledge of being able to source the plug part with the additional 1" of wiring. They have both the boot mechanism & the plug on their systems, but no sign of the plug with additional wiring (unless you pay £70 for the plug with full wiring harness).

My boot light has never worked, & I've never seen the 'Luggage comp. Open' message either, so sounds like I've the exact same issue as you had.

Should my 2000 GT TDi 115 have the 'Luggage comp. Open' message & icon?

Strange about the plug without the wiring, the parts dept at my VW offered me the plug with and without. Perhaps it's NLA?

With regards to the Luggage Open message, I couldn't say for def. as yours is a different model to mine, but your symptoms, as you say, are identical. The easiest way to check would be to remove the boot trim as in steps 1 & 2. If your wiper motor has been leaking, then there's a good chance that the spongy material on the rear of the trim is going to be damp/mouldy/rusty-water-looking (good description eh?]. You can then have a look at the little plug that goes into the microswitch, and if thats all corroded, then thats the problem. As a check, you can close the boot, jump in the front and squirt the window. Then open the boot again and see if there is any water dripping inside...

Piece of cake to do, although if you do need the little plug, it's a fiddly little sod! But do bear in mind, if your wiper motor is leaking, then replacing the latch will be a waste of time as it will eventually get ruined again. You'll need to buy a new wiper motor or I think VW do a repair kit for it, but you'd have to check with VW.


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#6 theshabster

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Posted 19 April 2010 - 05:31 AM

 Well I managed to remove the boot mechanism with ease thanks to your simple guide. In all honesty I didn't follow the instructions exactly in order, but the result was the same nonetheless.


I hadn't purchased a replacement switch, as I just wanted to check to see if:


A: The wiper had leaked


B: Whether or not I could clean up the existing mechanism/contacts without having to purchasing new parts.


I can report that there has been a leak at some point, but it doesn't appear to be recent, nor does it appear to be leaking upon testing. I came to the conclusion that the leak may have possible originated from around the boot handle judging by the deposits left behind [8-)]


Cleaning up the switch & plug with rust cleaning spray didn't fix the fault, so looks like I'll be sourcing replacement parts this week.


I'll report back once I've fitted the replacement parts.



#7 theshabster

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Posted 04 May 2010 - 02:45 AM

 Well I managed to complete the replacement of the parts above with the aid of this guide, so thanks very much to dantheman1981 for providing it.


I now have a working boot light & the central locking/alarm also works as it should when the boot is open :)


However, the luggage compartment warning lights don't show on my 2000 GT TDi, so I'm now trying to figure out whether or not it actually has this feature...



#8 peace1969

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Posted 04 May 2010 - 04:15 AM

Dont quote me on this but i think its only late 2001 canbus cars that have the Luggage com Open feature i never seen it on my 1999 car which has immo3 boro sport clocks fitted.



#9 matthew84

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Posted 17 May 2010 - 08:01 AM

excellent write up [:D]


i think i will be trying this along with the washer pipe replacement as my boot sems to not want to open as of this morning



#10 jononfire

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Posted 10 June 2010 - 03:24 PM

great guide, helped me out no end. 


thanks.



#11 weemax

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Posted 09 December 2010 - 11:56 AM

Thanks very much for this mate, wouldn't have known where to begin otherwise. You're a star!



#12 Lowey

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Posted 08 February 2011 - 09:48 AM

I have the same problem at the moment. Used your guide to disassemble. Very helpfull thanks. Quick question, the connector block on the boot locking mechanism was it a 3 pin connector? on mine it looks like 2 of the pins have snapped and are inside the other connector if u know what i mean.



#13 swiftkick21

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Posted 02 March 2011 - 04:30 PM

Subscribed! You've reminded me actually that my boot is open and doesn't lock lol. Really must get this sorted. Where can you get a plastic cover to replace the wiper motor should I choose to delete it?


Thanks for the guide [:)]



#14 DanAllkins

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 03:12 PM

my Golf mk4 Anniversary's boot light won't come on.  I did have a leak in the 'C' pillar where the screen wash pipe had 'popped' off.  I fixes that and dried it out but no light in the boot.  I checked the bulb and replaced it but still no luck.  


There doesn't appear to have been a leak on the lock, but I can't say for sure.  Could this be a fix for me?  I don't get any warnings on the dash though!


Cheers


Dan



#15 kipper101

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 05:15 PM

 i have a v reg golf and had exactly the same problem as you. boot light wouldnt come on when the boot is open and i thought maybe its just the bulb so i changed that and it wasnt so i bit the bullet and brought a new locking mechanism and the small plug that plugs into it. plugged the plug into the new boot switch and it worked fine so i figured i needed to change the boot lock mechanism and as i had a new plug cut the old wire back about 12mm so it has a fresh connection and put the plug on and all works perfect now.



#16 DanAllkins

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Posted 05 October 2011 - 03:22 PM

 i have a v reg golf and had exactly the same problem as you. boot light wouldnt come on when the boot is open and i thought maybe its just the bulb so i changed that and it wasnt so i bit the bullet and brought a new locking mechanism and the small plug that plugs into it. plugged the plug into the new boot switch and it worked fine so i figured i needed to change the boot lock mechanism and as i had a new plug cut the old wire back about 12mm so it has a fresh connection and put the plug on and all works perfect now.

 

Spot on, got a new catch from vw and all sorted !! thank you!



#17 Truxx

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Posted 19 November 2011 - 06:43 PM

sorry i misread the date ...

#18 robsamuel2k9

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 08:12 AM

Brilliant guide, my boot light hasn't worked in 2 years and only after reading this post I realised that the light on the trip computer has never come on either.


Going to ring around GSF, Euro Car parts, etc to see if I can get one. I'm picking my car up from Cardiff VW today as it's in for a minor service so I'll ask in there too.



#19 wobblewoo

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Posted 18 February 2012 - 10:27 AM

Thats an excellent guide - thankyou.


However, ive just replaced the boot catch on my 2002 golf and i still get the boot open icon and an annoying noise when i drive round.


Should i replace the plug as well as the catch?


Ive also got an issue (for about 3 months prior to my boot going wrong) where it doesnt recognise my driver side door is being opened. Im just in the middle of stripping out the door to get to the module at the moment. WOuld that be related?


Thanks for the guide though


W


 



#20 Benjo-Kazooie

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Posted 23 March 2012 - 02:22 PM

 Great! i did this before, to replace the lock barrel, thats when i noticed the same issue, corroding on the pins, which was the reason my boot light wasnt working.


i have often thought about replacing it. but i did not have and did not know the name of the mate bit. many thanks for that.



#21 swiftkick21

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Posted 25 March 2012 - 08:12 AM

Just laughed at this - I posted a year ago that I must get on and sort this out. Guess what? Haven't done it yet lol



#22 Havelin

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Posted 28 June 2012 - 04:43 AM

Same problem for me, got myself a new latch then realised my plug that connects to it is knackered. Ordered the little 3 pin plug from vw, just need to know how to connect it to the 3 wires? I asked vw about it coming with an inch of wire but they said its only the plug. Is it easy to connect the wires to? 


Cheers guys



#23 Benjo-Kazooie

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Posted 13 July 2012 - 04:42 AM

just ugraded from 1.4 to anni, and the same no light problem, however i took it apart and the pins were all fine, swapped it for one from my 1.4 and works, faulty switch i would imagine.


next stop the glove box....



#24 Benjo-Kazooie

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Posted 13 July 2012 - 04:42 AM

just ugraded from 1.4 to anni, and the same no light problem, however i took it apart and the pins were all fine, swapped it for one from my 1.4 and works, faulty switch i would imagine.


next stop the glove box....



#25 Benjo-Kazooie

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Posted 13 July 2012 - 04:42 AM

just ugraded from 1.4 to anni, and the same no light problem, however i took it apart and the pins were all fine, swapped it for one from my 1.4 and works, faulty switch i would imagine.


next stop the glove box....



#26 Benjo-Kazooie

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Posted 13 July 2012 - 04:42 AM

just ugraded from 1.4 to anni, and the same no light problem, however i took it apart and the pins were all fine, swapped it for one from my 1.4 and works, faulty switch i would imagine.


next stop the glove box....



#27 Piskie

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Posted 02 October 2012 - 12:50 PM

Anybody know where I can get the little plug from online ?


part no 1J0 973 115


Mine was badly corroded 



#28 Piskie

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Posted 02 October 2012 - 12:50 PM

Anybody know where I can get the little plug from online ?


part no 1J0 973 115


Mine was badly corroded 



#29 paulgato

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Posted 22 December 2012 - 12:55 PM

Fantastic write-up dantheman1981.


I've just done mine.  The main symptom I had was that if I unlocked the car with the fob and then opened the tailgate (estate) to get something out - which is often as I work out of the car and keep my tools in the back - then after about 30 seconds the alarm would go off, and all the other doors would relock themselves.  Madness.


I got used to opening a front door first and then opening the tailgate, and, well, you know, I could have lived with that, and I suppose it would have been less trouble than repairing it if you add all the time up, but I know what it's like with these electrical faults: you can live with one fault, but if you don't fix it, then sooner or later another, unrelated fault will develop and then you've got two faults with symptoms that relate to either one or the other or both, and then diagnosis can get really tricky, so I really wanted to get this fixed and back to normal operation to save my sanity when the next fault comes along.


Other symptoms were having no light in the boot area despite changing bulbs, and having no rear screen washer.


These symptoms I had had since buying the car 8 months ago.


I finally plucked up the courage and removed the tailgate trim.  That wasn't easy, and I did manage to crack the plastic trim right in the middle, closest to the latch, but not too badly, and repaired it successfully with Araldite and glass fibre tape.


Once in there, I found the classic problem: the little brass tube that runs through the spindle of the wiper mechanism had broken.  Also, the washer fluid tube plastic elbow had popped off the spiggot on the back of the wiper motor assembly.  I confidently presume that water from those broken/adrift tubes had got into the microswitch in the latch and caused it to fail.


The repair kit for the wiper motor (basically a new brass tube and spindle) was going to be £40, and I decided the rear washer was not worth £40 to me so I attempted a repair myself.  Again, using Araldite, I replaced the damaged section of brass tube with a slightly wider diameter stainless steel tube I had lying around (part of an old car aerial).  Not the easiest repair, I have to admit, but it seems to have worked fine.  I don't mind tinkering like that but was not gonna pay £40!


The latch is not repairable - and you can't take the microswitch out - so I had to shell out for a new one.  £32 if I remember right.  No point getting a second hand one as you don't know what state it's in electrically until you try it.  Chamging the switch was ridiculously simple and easy, once I had got hold of the right mate XZN 12 point spline bit for the bolts.


It all went back together fine, except that I found another leak, up by the high level brake light.  (Oh no! more plastic trim to remove!)   I found another washer fluid elbow had come adrift from a pipe up there.


These elbows, I pushed back on their spiggots and then held them in place with a short length of copper wire stripped out of some electrical cable (not flex!) which I wrapped one-and-half times around the connector, behind the 'barb' of the spiggot, and twisted the ends together to pull it tight.  Kind of like a jubilee clip, except there was no room for a jubilee clip.  The copper wire is tiny, and looks like it will hold well.


So, I'm going to leave the trim off for a few days until I'm confident there are no more leaks, but it looks like the job's a good'un.  The boot light comes on, the dash warning symbol for the tailgate being open come on (never seen that before!) and the alarm system is behaving itself.  And I have a rear screen washer, although that is a really minor thing.


The most difficult part of the whole job (apart from prising my wallet open to pay for the new part/s) was removing that stupid plastic trim.  The Mk3 Golf estate had a dozen or so screws and a bunch of plastic plugs so there was no forceful and blind heaving to release the thing from hidden clips.  Much better.  As far as I can see, the most vulnerable part of the cover is the bit i broke, as the plastic narrows there to accomodate the latch.  In the end I figured out how to remove it without breaking it, but only when it was too late.  If youc an get one side free, then you can feed a length of rod (I used 15mm copper pipe) in between the cover and the tailgate and lever the cover off, applying pressure close to the clips.


One other thing is that the upper trim, which I had to remove to get to the popped joint by the high level brake light, comes off thuswise: the side 'arms' pull off inwards (the direction of the centre of the car) and not towards the back of the car as I had assumed.  I got away with it and it came off intact even though I was pulling backwards and not inwards, but who knows, there may be someone as stupid as I am, and for that person it would be usefull to know which ditrection to pull.


In general, I have to say I hate it when fixings are hidden.  It means you need 'inside knowledge' to be able to fix your own car.  I loved my old SAAB 900 (old shape)  SAAB's attitude at that time seems to have been, "Why use a plastic clip when a steel allen bolt will do?"  I don't suppose cars will ever be built as well as that again - mostly for cost reasons but partly for weight reasons too I guess.



#30 chezney55

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Posted 28 February 2013 - 05:15 PM

Old post but this is totally brilliant cheers! 






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