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MonK-E's GTI end of the 5dr


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#1 MonK-E

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Posted 11 January 2014 - 05:51 PM

A96ABF16-A970-478C-A0B7-E414C29EE833_zps
(I don't have any pics of when I first purchased my car)

I purchased my car about 1 year before I started this thread in completely standard trim. With the intention of just going for a nice stage 1 map and keeping the car a fairly standard daily runabout.
Before this I had a blue mk4 golf 2.0L 8v as my first car, so I have only ever owned mk4 golfs.

The more I read through threads on here the more I wanted to go stage 2 (I think this is where everything started to go wrong) Its now gone far beyond what I originally set out to do, I still want to do more as my situation has changed a bit and I want to play on track more nowadays.



Progress so far....

This page: k03s, FMIC, wheel refurb and first attempt at engine mount.
Engine mounts version 2, Bumper mod(plastic welded)
New version of heat shield, catch can relocation, carbon can removal and 2.0L 8v gearbox strip down
Engine out
DIY turbo rebuild, ehaust manifold ported, turbo ported, BBT waste gate actuator
Side exit exhaust, R-Tech remap
312 brakes, battery relocation, WMI
WMI continued, K300 install, Airbox/heat shield new version
Vband decat, finished airbox/heat shield
R-Tech remap(307bhp)
15mm rear wheel spacers
TT hub carriers, turbo/exhaust manifold leak fixed
another engine mount
DIY gearbox rebuild
7kg flywheel and VR6 clutch
interior strip out
TT quick shift linkage, adjustable TT front ARB mod
28mm rear ARB install
KW V3's, K-Mack adjustable top mounts
DIY 034 style subframe bushes, braced and seam welded subframe
LCR quick rack, TT control arms, superpro caster bushes
Air Con removed, headlights and sprayed badge
-1 degree rear beam camber plates

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Today I reinstalled the TIP and cut off about 30mm to get it to fit better. I straightened out the home made heat shield and added a better cold air feed from the bumper straight into the air filter. Replaced one of the catch can pipes as it had closed up and wasn't venting any more. I also replaced the baffle in the catch can with some good old stretched out scouring balls.

BA1FD807-7E8D-4B9B-96F7-E7088E1A0170_zps

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Good thing I did have a play about today as I found the gearbox mount is knackered again (replaced about 10 months ago) and a leaky cam cover seal, right where the half moon is.
So when we get some better weather I think I will take the opportunity to paint the cam cover gloss black when it is off.

I also think I am going to go with a uprated transmission mount as they clearly aren't up to the job (or its just the way I drive :whistle: )

I have a nice 2.0 gearbox sitting in the shed which I'm thinking of fitting. It has the same gear ratios as my AGU box just with a shorter final drive. but I'm not sure yet, I have a couple of other ideas I might want to do first...




#2 MonK-E

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 05:07 PM

A couple of picks of the MIJ silencer before I fitted it and with it on the car today (needs a bit of a clean)

 

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I thought I would take a couple of pics of other bits and bobs I have fairly recently done

 

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GTI foot rest and a chrome golf ball gear knob (damn cold on your hand in the morning this time of year. Special thanks to my buddy Al for donating the boost gage :Y: 

 

I put some 6x9's in quite a while ago. I don't really want them any more, I prefer listening the the exhaust note. so I think I'm going to take the shelf out and sell them on at some point

 

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I also added some cheap little chrome rings to the clocks. They are surprisingly easy to fit and I think the make the clocks look a bit more interesting.

 

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One of my next silly little jobs is going to be the glove box. its scratched to buggery but in good working order so I don't really want to replace just do something to cover it up. not sure what would look nice though. Oh yeah and I'm slowly swapping out all the wood effect parts because I don't like the wood style.

 

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I don't know if covering it in vinyl will be all right, it will probably look crap though, same as flock. it would be nice if you could get spray on rubbery stuff like the OEM finish.



#3 sawfordtdi

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 07:20 PM

Closest thing to spray on rubber would be plastidip which quite a few people on here have used on various bits including alloys and whole cars.

#4 MonK-E

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 07:50 PM

Cheers sawfordtdi, I just ordered a can. Ill give it a go and see how it turns out. Guess I can just peel it of if it does not work out so great.

 

I wonder how durable it is, as its the Mrs handbag that caused the scratches in the first place  :angry:



#5 sawfordtdi

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 08:29 PM

Should be fairly durable. If not just spray over it to fill in any gaps or scratches.

#6 MonK-E

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 09:37 PM

if it works out nice ill do the wood effect centre console trim with it as well I think



#7 MonK-E

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 08:04 PM

Just a little bit I done.

The little red immobilizer light on the door card never worked. So I pulled it apart and drilled it out, pinched a LED from work and resin'd it in. 

 

C23FFEA4-7764-4482-B87C-885CAFF11BD8_zps

 

Job done



#8 B4DVW

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 12:01 AM

Good work on the mods mate, will watch out for more updates.

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#9 MonK-E

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 07:05 PM

Cheers mate, I'll try and update regularly but as usual it's down time and money.
I do have a couple of bits planned for the weekend though.

I'm about to pick up 2 of my semi refurbished wheels in about an hour XD

#10 MonK-E

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 09:45 PM

ere we go.

All primer'd and ready for paint.

 

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I'm half tempted to just put tyres on them now, however I have been advised not to as they are not UV protected.

So ill stick a coat on them on Saturday and rubber next weekend.

 

Cant wait to swap them over and send the other 2 off for sand blasting now.

 

Suppose I should really get my finger out and paint those callipers  



#11 MonK-E

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Posted 18 January 2014 - 04:26 PM

I have done the plasti dip as recommend, it's turned out quite nice and OEM looking.

First coat

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I done another 4 coats after this leaving it to dry between each one


The glove box turned out well, I think I'll keep the other bits like this for a while then change it up after a bit

D0B0B16D-124A-4295-8609-73463BA23FAE_zps

#12 Co4

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Posted 18 January 2014 - 04:57 PM

nice work man,  glove box cleaned up well, what wheels are they? skoda ones? 17's?


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#13 MonK-E

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Posted 18 January 2014 - 05:22 PM

Seat 17's.
Got them off a buddy for £50 a while back when I had my 2.0 and have been meaning to referb them ever since

#14 MonK-E

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Posted 19 January 2014 - 05:15 PM

Wheels have been top coated, I'm going to leave them to harden till Friday and get some rubber on them

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#15 MonK-E

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Posted 25 January 2014 - 04:30 PM

2 of the wheels are on the car now, the other 2 are at the sand blasters.
Should have them on the car next weekend.

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Mrs won't let me have a FMIC until the end of next month!!
I'll remember this when she next wants something....

I'm thinking I might do a cheap engine mount. Get the old one and fill it up with liquid poly

#16 MonK-E

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Posted 25 January 2014 - 06:11 PM

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#17 MonK-E

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Posted 26 January 2014 - 02:49 PM

As it's such poor weather today, I thought I would make a start on remaking my sub.
I had to take it out because it's no longer practical with a littlen and shopping runs.

At the moment it is like this and takes most of the boot space

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I plan to make it into something like this. It should fit up against the seat in the middle and still give me enough room to fit the buggy in.

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#18 MonK-E

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Posted 02 February 2014 - 11:47 AM

All the wheels are on now, still need to do the rear hub caps and callipers

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#19 MonK-E

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Posted 02 February 2014 - 11:53 AM

There is a really annoying bit of cracked paint work on the spoiler. It looks like the previous owner has filled the arial cut out at some point.

What's the best way of removing the spoiler with out damaging the tail gate paint work?

I just want to take it off prep it, respray and reinstall.

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#20 MonK-E

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Posted 05 February 2014 - 09:31 PM

I know I wasn't supposed to. But what the hell.

 

Just bought this

http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1439.l2649

 

should arrive by the weekend



#21 stobo91

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Posted 06 February 2014 - 09:56 AM

Nice work on the car bud.

 

Just a small note on the FMIC though, from it advert it says it only has 2" piping which is smaller than the OEM intercooler.

 

Have a read of this - http://r-techperform...2-tuning-guide/



#22 MonK-E

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Posted 06 February 2014 - 12:52 PM

Cheers dude.
Yeah I know. The way I see it is, I'm only after 235 ish bhp so not a massive figure from a k03s and I want as little amount of lag as possible. The turbo outlet is 2" so by going bigger than that I'm just creating more space to fill.
I don't want to go balls out as this is my daily so I'd rather go for something that fits nicely hidden under the bumper and does the job well enough to get a nice reliable custom stage 2 tune.

#23 MonK-E

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Posted 06 February 2014 - 05:31 PM

I can't see the k03s flowing more than 585cfm. Maybe if I was thinking of going hybrid or BT then it'll be worth going for kit with bigger pipe work. But I'm going to keep with the k03s so I think it will be good enough

http://forums.tdiclu...ad.php?t=363037

#24 MonK-E

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Posted 07 February 2014 - 12:45 PM

Interesting thing just happened.
The FMIC is due to arrive today but It hasn't been shipped yet.
I got in contact with them and they are upgrading it to the race version and shipping it out today.

So I'll have 2.5" pipes with a 3" core
Nice little upgrade but still not sure if I'll need it.

Thanks Revo, good customer support

#25 MonK-E

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Posted 07 February 2014 - 03:34 PM

Does any one think it is worth getting injectors and vr6 maf housing to squeeze the most out of the turbo?
Because I have read the the agu injectors are at the dc limit with a custom tune

#26 MonK-E

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Posted 09 February 2014 - 09:24 PM

not much done this weekend.

I did finish painting the rear callipers and hub caps, also lowered the front by another 5mm or so to make it have the same wheel arch gap F & R  



#27 MonK-E

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Posted 12 February 2014 - 10:45 PM

The Eurojet race FMIC kit turned up. Sorry for the very poor quality pics.

If the weather is good this weekend I will try and install it.

I have a feeling that there is not going to be much left of the bumper and airblade valance. The core it 8cm thick and from the edge of the bumper to the rad is about 10cm so it it going to have to be cut back allot. It also may not fit the valance even with major trimming as it looks like the bottom of the IC is lower than the join.

 

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#28 MonK-E

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Posted 16 February 2014 - 07:06 PM

Right, update time 

Special thanks to my good buddy Al for helping out today, Cheers dude.

 

We managed to get the bumper off with only having to grind one of the bolt heads off as it was too corroded and the captive nut started to spin. I'll replace the captive nut next weekend with a clinch-nut.

 

If any one wants to buy one of these Eurojet Race mount kits Only buy if your good and willing to do a lot of modification to the rad surround and bumper. The standard one will fit, Just. if you have a R32 bumper it would be allot easier.

 

 C03025A5-40AD-44B3-8CE0-5D4B2F46E55B_zps

 

 

 

This is how much you have to modify the rad surround. You have to get it tight up against the air con cooler or it will never fit well. 

 

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I couldn't use the bonnet catch support and had to make a simple bracket up to support the cooler

 

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I mounted it up and angled it as far back against the aircon cooler at the bottom as possible

 

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This is as far as I got this weekend, Just about got the bumper on with no valance. It still needs more trimming back another 5-6mm to make it fit properly but it will do to get me to work and back this week. 

 

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Oh yeah and I made up a little blanking plate for the MAP sensor because its a AGU engine and doesn't have one 

 

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All in all a fair bit of progress. I am quite pleased that it will fit with the standard bumper. But really it is literally ONLY JUST. If it was 5mm thicker it wouldn't fit and would be external to the bumper at the bottom. 

 

I think I will also take the side vents out an put some black mesh in all three of the lower vents at some point to finish it off properly and make it so you will hardly be able to see it.



#29 MonK-E

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 11:12 PM

Had to cut a massive amount out of the bumper and valance, practically destroying it 

 

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managed to get the valance on, not very well mind. but it'll have to do for now. I might have to go R32 front bumper to make it look nice.

I still have a couple of little things to sort out still. The bonnet needs readjusting, pipe work needs tweaking so its not touching the tip and I need to make another heat shield up that fits. oh yeah and I need to re route the cold air pipe as the old place for it is blocked by a charge pipe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I thought I would do a bit of servicing and spotted this

 

DE985C5D-185B-426F-AB44-8C28697CF211_zps

 

The previous owner was supposed to of done this at 120k according to the service book. clearly this did not happen. So I made an emergency visit to gsf and bought a cam belt, hydraulic tensioner, idler, water pump and coolant. All I can say is that I'm lucky that I spotted this because it looks like it could go at any time.

 

 

 

 

 

As I have all the engine bay in bits at the moment I thought I would take the chance to paint the cam cover 

 

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I then decided it was time to tackle the engine mounts with some poly resin

 

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Now I thought I purchased the right stuff but clearly not. I was hoping for some nice cheap home made poly mounts.

However I have ended up with some rather ridiculous solid race mounts that will most likely cause all my fillings to fall out when I start the engine.

 

Big fault on my part. I should of done more research on what resin to use, as ebay just has modelling poly for casting.

What to do with them now........?



#30 MonK-E

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 06:24 PM

Turns out I bought shore D 75 hardness which is plastic and I should of bought shore A 75 which is rubber. Live and learn I guess.
I installed them any way and it's really terrible. Great for a track car but useless on the road.
I have bought some of the right stuff and I'm going to attempt to do it again with another old engine mount I have laying about.




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