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How To: Fix your clunking Recaros for good!

34K views 28 replies 21 participants last post by  DumiG4  
#1 ·
First of all I cannot take any credit for this fix, it was pointed out by Mick B in the following thread:

http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/thread/675412.aspx

Anyway I decided to do my passenger seat today and take a few photos for reference. It took approximately an hour with no rushing whatsoever [:D]

Tools required:

13mm socket & driver, philips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, axle stand or bricks for support, a lump hammer and a heavy duty chisel - something soft to lay your seat on the ground may be an idea. I used an old duvet.

First take the negative terminal off your battery, your seats have airbags inside and you don't want them going off whilst removing the seat [:|]

Move the seat as far forward as it will go on it's runners, you need to remove the plastic cap (circled in red) Use your flathead screwdriver to carefully pry the cap off

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and remove the screw underneath the cap. Do this on both sides and remove the long black plastic pieces which come away easily

Then, move the seat as far back as it will go on it's runners. Look at the centre
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See the 2 x 13mm bolts (circled in red) - these need to come off

Tilt the seat forwards, and slide it all the way back until it's free from the runner channels. Then you need to go under the seat and unclip the wiring connector(s) for the airbag and if like me you have heated seats [:p]

Take the seat out of the car, remove the black trim (a couple of philips screws) around the base, and lay it on it's side

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The following picture shows the pressed joints you need to be looking at. They're near the front of the seat

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There's 2 per side
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Now what I did was to use the axle stand to go under the opposite side to support the seat as I whacked the pressed 'flaps' down with the lump hammer and chisel

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I found it easier to use the chisel upside down as this got all 5 flaps pressed down in a couple of hits. I then finished off using the chisel the right way up. The upper joints are a bit harder to access but by no means impossible. When you've done both of them, flip the seat over and repeat on the other side. Take your time and you'll be rewarded with a silent seat [:D][y]

Refit the seat, reconnect the wiring plugs for the airbag and heating element, reconnect the battery and that's it!
 
#6 ·
Great guide - very useful.

Just to add, even with the battery disconnected, VW still advise this when removing front seats:

Warning:
Electrostatic discharges may result in unintentional
triggering of the airbag. Therefore the mechanic
must electrostatically discharge him/herself before
disconnecting the igniter and earth wires. This
can be done by briefly touching the body or striker
plate on the door.
 
#7 ·
Did my driver's seat last night in about 30 mins. Worked a treat no more clunking, thanks guys. Also had the airbag light on and discovered a loose wire in the seat connector block. Fixed that so hopefully all I need to do is get the fault code cleared.
 
#8 ·
Mine have started to clunk again [:mad:]. I need to take them out again anyway to sort the airbag connectors out. I must not have hit the star shaped pieces of metal hard enough. Can anyone else who has done this confirm if they need to be bent flat?

Cheers

D
 
#10 ·
I have a comment about this. Just my drivers seat is clucky so I bashed the lower two crimped joints, which stopped the clunking for an hour !!. So was going to do the tops as well. But i have found that the seat is much stiffer to flip forward now, (As its a 3 door), so these joints are there to allow the seat pivot forward !!!. Surely smacking these up isnt good !..

Any Ideas
 
#12 ·
whoops just seen the replies - I have not had a squeak out of mine since doing this, nor has the operation of the mechanism changed - sorry it hasn't worked as well on some folk's seats [:(]

this is more of a close up pic of how far back I bent the tabs

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#13 ·
HUmm ok, so it seems i may of been a bit ambitious with the hammer. from the pic i imagine i have bent them back too much and they are catching. So its NOT the bending the pins back that stops the cluck, more just the compression of the shaft. I better try again, Grrr
 
#15 ·
Obviously this was ages ago but can anyone confirm what kind of 'clunking' it is. I've got a problem where the top half of my passenger seat moves more than it should which causes a constant rattle when no one's sitting in it. Is this the problem this might fix? Cheers
 
#18 ·
Grr, why are mine so god dam noisy. Both sides are clunking under heavy acc/braking, drivers side a bit more actually. Think ill try to get the other half to sit in and make them clunk whislt i try to look underneath.
 
#21 ·
I shall be trying to fix my seats today, I'm being negative as I find it really hard to believe my drivers seat clunking is replicating the sound of a broken Shock or sub frame etc.

I mean the noise is horrible,

but I did have mecahnics lift my car up in the air and done all the tests, they said your seat bracket is worn.

So fingers crossed it will work!
 
#23 ·
just tried this, and seat still rocks back and forward, about 1-2mm of movement when you use your hand whilst standing outside the car and rock it back and forward and you can hear a clicking noise coming from below the seat.

wonder what i can do next :(.
 
#24 ·
hi,

in the 3rd pic down which shows the under side of the seat, what is the purpose of the spring that seems to connect something on the front to something on the rear as 1 of mine has some how come off on my passenger seat?

my seat still goes forward/back, up/down etc....

matt