[Mk4 Golf] Clutch slip after re-map - Clutch and Gearbox - uk-mkivs

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Clutch slip after re-map



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#1

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Posted 08 July 2003 - 05:09 AM

Hi all, just joined your forum as it looks and sounds great.

Had my 1.8T remapped at AMD 3 weeks ago, really has made a massive difference!! This last week though I reckon my clutch may be slippin after above 3000 revs, It pulls really well in 1st and 2nd, gets to 3000 revs in 3rd and appears to slip. Is this common as I am assuming the extra power may be a bit 2 much for the stock clutch. Any views/comments would be appriciated



thanks[?]


#2 R1GTI

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Posted 08 July 2003 - 05:39 AM

Hello mate welcome aboard.



I had a remap about 15k ago and the clutch was fine...but then when it started going it went quick...within three days. and then it was absolutely shot.



If you suspect it is going, be ready to have it done soon... otherwise you will be stuck with no motor and no way to drive it to a garage. I was lucky and got mine in and fixed under warranty because of other issues.



How many miles you done in total and what is your poewer after the remap?

also are you drive by wire or not?



Rich

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Posted 08 July 2003 - 07:47 AM

Hi Rich,



Mines done 108K!! but runs really well, Remapped to 198bhp @ AMD

Ive already t'd up a mechanic who can do it 4 me - is it worth buying a performance clutch, or just the standard 1??

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Posted 08 July 2003 - 07:50 AM

Mines a '98 model, so I assume its the usual cable drive



Cheers

#5 talk-torque

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Posted 08 July 2003 - 08:18 AM

A new standard clutch would handle the power OK - a lot of people have remapped with no clutch problems - yours was obviously a weak point, at 108k, which the extra power is quickly destroying! As you've got to replace it though, an uprated clutch is a good idea. The extra cost will be marginal and it should be more resistant to the abuse I'm sure it will get!



Welcome to the forum.

#6

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Posted 10 July 2003 - 06:16 AM

Hi Chaps,



I have had two clutches fitted since the original Superchip remap, some time ago and recently I took the car to Stealth Motorsport in W-S-M to have the new Turbo and other stuff done. I told them about the clutch slip and they stripped out the clutch for a look.

Good job too....the pressure plate was knackered, the springs had completely failed and the whole assembly needing replacing. They spoke to VW stealer in W-S-M and they could not supply a new, oem assembly as there is a reconised prooblem with the clutch system fitted with to the Golf Mk4. (Notice no recall has been advised by VW, eh?).

The resulting fix was to by a complete clutch assembly for an Audi TT 225 and this was duly fitted with a Helix organic paddle clutch, which is mmore than enough to handle the increased power developed from the mods! The delivery is now very good and the clutch is absolutely spot on, although low speed traffic work generates enough exercise for your right leg to last you a lifetime!!!



Whilst doing the work on T18PET, the guys also replaced the CV joints as they were also knackered! (Funny how VW didn/t pick this up on the last service, which was just after the warranty had expired!) Beware, one of the CV joints has to be purchased complete with a drive shaft, so it ain't cheap, but the car is so much more driveable now!



Learn from my costly experiences!!!





#7 R1GTI

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Posted 10 July 2003 - 08:35 AM

quote:
Originally posted by talk-torque


A new standard clutch would handle the power OK - a lot of people have remapped with no clutch problems - yours was obviously a weak point, at 108k, which the extra power is quickly destroying! As you've got to replace it though, an uprated clutch is a good idea. The extra cost will be marginal and it should be more resistant to the abuse I'm sure it will get!



Welcome to the forum.






I'm running 230 BHP and my clutch went at 37K It did run well for 15K of chippage though so they aren't that bed, but as TT suggests, upgrading the clutch is a marginal cost over a standard one. And as RR mentions, he has 250HP and the Helix set up is Ideal.

I'm just waiting for the MK IV version of the VR6 Flywheel and Helix clutch unit to be ready. A couple of weeks according to Stealth In Banbury (different to the WSM Stealth).



This is the clutch setup Badger5 is using running over 350BHP and it's they way forward in my book. Next time my clutch goes, maybe even before, I will have one of these put in as I'm not going to wnd up in the same situation as I had last week where the car was just useless.



RR is quite right,

Learn from our expensive experiences

#8

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Posted 11 July 2003 - 03:06 AM

Cheers guys, must get it done now as its slipping in 2nd quite a bit!! Ive heard that black diammond clutches are 15% more durable than the stock VW clutch - are they any good?? Does anyone think that 17" rims are 'old hat' as every1 seems to be sticking 18's on there dubs. Are there any arch mods needed to accomodate 18's[?], and whats the best drop required to 'seat' those wheels into the arches. I guess about 40mm but would like your views - thanks

#9

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Posted 11 July 2003 - 04:26 AM

quote:
Originally posted by R1GTI


quote:
Originally posted by talk-torque




This is the clutch setup Badger5 is using running over 350BHP and it's they way forward in my book. Next time my clutch goes, maybe even before, I will have one of these put in as I'm not going to wnd up in the same situation as I had last week where the car was just useless.






My Ibiza 20VT Helix/VR6 setup is still going fine after 18K miles abuse. It more aggressive than stock and a little firmer, but not anything nasty.



Golf also runs same kind of setup with Helix clutch, but more power and boost. Rag it on standing starts and it will smell orrid! But it keeps on going.



Bill

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Posted 20 July 2003 - 11:15 AM

I had a helix padd clutch and cover plate fitted at Stealth Racing about 3 months ago

after I experienced slipping. Saw the old clutch after vince took it off and there

was plenty of friction material left, it just couldn't hold the torque (I was running

240ft/lbs at 3400 RPM at the time).



Have to say the paddle clutch makes driving the car a bit of a chore. It's very on/off

so changing gear can be a bit jerky (I also have ABD poly inserts on my rear gearbox

mount which don't help the ride smoothness much). It's also very chattery at low RPM's

(i.e. a rattling sound) unless you rev higher than you normally would. What are other

people with Helix clutches experiences?



Having said that, when driving on an open road with nothing in front it does make the

gear change very snappy and it definitely holds the power. BTW, don't hold your breath

for the Helix G60 flywheel/clutch combo - I was told 2 weeks for that when I had mine

done in April.





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