Golf Mk4 Boot Microswitch Replacement. - Page 2 - D.I.Y Guides and How to Instructions - uk-mkivs

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Golf Mk4 Boot Microswitch Replacement.

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#31 richh



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Posted 10 July 2013 - 07:49 PM

Would like to add to this a bit of an oddity with my microswitch.

I have a belgian imported 130 pd tdi.

I had no boot light which led me to this thread and sure enough my microswitch had been fried by a leaking pipe that had come off the wiper motor.

The fried microswitch boot lock on my car 1J6 827 505B only had 1 pin, the cabe had three wires but only 1 contact on the plug.


Question I have is how did my car bootlight ever work with only 1 pin?

What are the 3 pins for? Being an import my car doesn't have internal alarm sensors.. Is that what one of the 3 pins is for?

On a sidenote I accidentally bought an extra boot lock on ebay. It's brand new genuine VAG 1J6 827 505 C and if anyone wants it I can send it to your door for the price I paid for it £23. Drop me a PM.



#32 richymk440


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Posted 02 August 2013 - 11:24 PM

my boot door wont lock by remote and i cannot turn the key lock it siezed or glued in place lol and i dont want to brake my key need help i cannot lock my car :(

#33 AntsRants


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Posted 07 October 2013 - 08:58 AM

Just checked my local VW garage for the part, they said the part number 1J6 827 505 CB41 was just the locking mechanism, and didn't include the microswitch, the lock was £40ish inv vat, and for the micro switch it was £38.57 inc VAT.  So, whilst talking, and looking on the bay of E, found some genuine parts for £35 which was the lock and micro switch.

#34 RandallFlagg



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Posted 09 January 2015 - 12:04 PM

Thanks for a great guide. I had all sorts of symptoms going on: Lack of rear washer pressure, alarm going off randomly, no indicator flash when alarm set, rear wiper misbehaving, Luggage compartment open warning on dash... All down to leaky rear washer dripping on boot latch.


Having worked through this, I just wanted to elaborate on a couple of things:


1. The size of spline bit required is an mate and you can pick one up from eBay for £0.99.

2. Its impossible to "Fry" a micro-switch. Micro-switches are mechanical devices with electrical contacts in them. When they are adjusted mechanically then they will either create a short circuit or open circuit.

The one fitted to the boot latch has two sets of contactors in it. I am assuming that one is for the boot interior light and the other to tell the ECU if the boots open or closed.

If either or both of these functions stop working, there is a simple fix:

  • Remove the bootlatch.
  • Spray lots of WD40 on the connector and on the micro-switch itself.
  • Clean up connector.
  • work the micro-switch back and forward, keep adding WD40 ensuring that its soaking into (Yes actually inside) the micro-switch.

Use a multi-meter to ensure that on the bootlatch connector, the centre pin to each side pin is short circuit, then push the micro-switch in and ensure that the centre pin to each side pin goes open circuit. If its not, more WD40, more working the switch, more cleaning the connector.


Unless the micro-switch has literally fallen apart, it should be (and was in my case) that simple to get the bootlatch micro-switch working properly again.


Hope this helps

#35 crazycraig



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Posted 18 January 2015 - 04:52 PM

Great tutorial dantheman sorted my boot light issue and the car locking itself when you just go in the boot!! Dont supposed there's  a write up on the rear reading lights/alarm sensors? Mines a 2002 25th Anni

The light on the o/s works ok, but the n/s ones does not! Bulb looks ok, any ideas? I must admit I havent got a spare bulb but once I packed all my tools away, I should have swapped the bulb from the other side to confirm! The bulb is an odd one as well, not seen one of the before!!

thanks again for the great article  :D  :D  :Y:  :Y:  :Y:

#36 jacko17



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Posted 20 March 2016 - 10:07 PM

Can anyone tell me what sort of star head you need to take the latch from the bootlid.

#37 Jay Hanmore

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Posted 10 June 2016 - 10:53 AM

Thanks for the great posts, My boot light was staying on with the boot shut (I found out through flat battery more than once), but the luggage compartment warning was coming on only when the boot was open.

after reading from Newbie that the microswitch actually has separate switches inside it for both light and boot open warning/alarm etc, it would explain why the light staying on was my only issue. I shall try the WD40 thing exactly as described using a continuity/volt meter and hopefully get a free fix out of this,,, will let you know guys.

#38 porkstirfry



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Posted 29 November 2016 - 05:21 PM

Just replaced my microswitch and boot latch as my boot light wasn't working. Had the old problem of the rear washer leaking onto it. So i repaired that first, then cut the old wires and put them on the new microswitch connector simply by pushing down with a screwdriver. Boot light now working. However, when i open the boot, there is no 'open door symbol' on the dashboard. since it's been over 3 years since this problem, I am wondering whether this symbol is actually meant to appear or not on my car, i cant remember? golf mk4 1.4 S? should i be seeing that symbol? everything else working fine, with regards to locking unlocking and the boot light. Help appreciated, thanks.

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#39 tomkilner



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Posted 02 February 2017 - 12:14 PM

I managed to fix the tailgate microswitch - better than shelling out £30 plus for a replacement!

Removed 2 screws in trim handle holes, levered off the trim panel, disconnected the catch microswitch wiring connector, unscrewed the XZN mate bolts holding the catch to the tailgate (tool cost about £3), levered out the catch operating connecting rod, removed the catch.

I could see the microswitch is riveted in. There is a slider at the back of it that the rotating catch hook pushes. This was sticky and dirty. By sliding the switch repeatedly, whilst soaking the slot with contact cleaner, I managed to get it moving smoothly again and opening and closing the circuit, after about 5 minutes of squirting and wiggling.

The wiring connector was also corroded (see above about screenwash leaks) so I cleaned that out with contact cleaner and some scraping. The pins in the connector are not much larger than a human hair, so go easy.

Cost £3, took 15 minutes. is an independent Volkswagen enthusiast website owned and operated by VerticalScope Inc. Content on is generated by its users. is not in any way affiliated with Volkswagen AG.