PD vac line simplification (N18 + N239 valve delete) - D.I.Y Guides and How to Instructions - uk-mkivs

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PD vac line simplification (N18 + N239 valve delete)


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#1 old_n07

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Posted 10 December 2010 - 04:59 PM

If you have performed an EGR delete then you can remove the control valves for the EGR and anti shudder along with the VAC lines that supply them and the vacuum resevoir, this is the standard valve and line layout on the PD:

Posted Image

When you remove the two valves you are going to this layout:

Posted Image

to do this delete the red hoses and valves etc [y]

Posted Image

To end up with this

Posted Image

Whilst doing this it is the ideal time to replace all the lines with silicone piping, you will need 3mm and 4mm diameter:

From N75 to actuator is 3ft in 4mm

From N75 to airbox is 2ft in 4mm

From valve to servo vac pipe (inc 1 way valve) is 1ft of 3mm

From N75 to vac resevoir (on a 130) if you are keeping it is 3ft of 3mm

So totals:

5ft of 4MM - so get 2 metres

4ft of 3mm - so get 1 metre or 2 depending on if you keep the vac resevoir

HTH

Neil


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#2 DANBOY

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Posted 11 December 2010 - 04:24 AM

 Thanks for that i have fitted my egr delete kit and i was going to do this in the new year when i change my turbo


you say you need 3mm and 4mm silicon hoses could you tell us all what ones they are as i have orderd 4mm as i thought that was all i needed


Has anyone workrd out how to trick the ecu so you get no error codes when its all been removed?


dan [Y]


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#3 bigjim-85

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Posted 11 December 2010 - 07:59 AM

 Once again Neil you have produced an exelent how to [Y]



#4 timbomfg

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Posted 11 December 2010 - 08:02 AM

Surely getting rid of the res will cause issues? Mine played silly buggers when the air-line running to it was leaking. 


Edit: I did the simplification and deleted the N18 and N239 on my PD, and that part worked a charm, but i left the vac res in place (logic was that the vac is only built up when the engine is running. If you do an N75 test in vag-com without the engine running, it manages to cycle the N75 about 3 times before the pressure is too low for it to move the actuator).



#5 madman

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Posted 11 December 2010 - 08:09 AM

Ive ben running with no reservoir for a long time...not had any problems at all. To stop the ECU error you need to fit a resistor. The value of the resistor needs to be the same value as the solenoid valve you remove. so take a multimeter and measure accross the electrical contacts to get the value. The resistors need to be 10w ones.



#6 old_n07

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Posted 11 December 2010 - 09:19 AM

 The vac resevoir is only really needed for the anti shudder functionality as the N75 only needs to work with the engine running unless you are doing a function test in vagcom.


Saying that I still have mine fitted at the moment.


The 4mm tube is from the turbo to valve and Vac pump to valve, the 3mm is from the valve to airbox


Neil



#7 old_n07

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Posted 11 December 2010 - 09:22 AM

 The resistor values for the valves were 15 ohm and 32 ohm when I measured them for the N18 and N239 respectively (I think that way round), I've got the resistors but haven't fitted them yet so I can't say this works or not.



#8 B47t0n

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Posted 30 December 2010 - 08:13 AM

sorry for the nooob question but is there any gains from doing this ?


 


thank you



#9 old_n07

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Posted 30 December 2010 - 08:24 AM

What sort of gains do you mean?


All this does is remove the obsolete valves and pipes that are left when you have done an EGR delete



#10 madman

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Posted 30 December 2010 - 08:38 AM

The main benifit is there is less to go wrong as you remove close on to 20 or so vacuum connections...It makes your bulkhead look tidyer too[8-)]



#11 mickstoke

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Posted 14 January 2011 - 03:20 PM

 will this be the same for the ajm?



#12 danny_sims

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Posted 14 January 2011 - 04:04 PM

 subscribed



#13 mickstoke

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Posted 14 January 2011 - 04:16 PM

 ?



#14 kirton

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Posted 14 January 2011 - 04:29 PM

 I done this a while back... looks a LOT tidier!



#15 old_n07

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Posted 14 January 2011 - 06:57 PM

 Yes Mick, it is basically the same set up all you need to leave is the N75 valve that runs the vac line to the turbo [y]



#16 old_n07

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Posted 14 January 2011 - 07:02 PM

 This is the layout for both types of system on the PD just for reference, you can see that they are very similar [y]

Posted Image

Neil



#17 kirton

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Posted 15 January 2011 - 01:59 AM

 Out of interest, where are these pages taken from mate?



#18 Dilksie

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Posted 15 January 2011 - 02:18 AM

 they will be from elaswin, a sort of computerised haynes manual the VW garages use


82517.png


#19 mickstoke

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Posted 15 January 2011 - 10:37 AM

 Done it today while i had my turbo and manifolds off again. I will post pics up later. alot more tidy and feels a little more reponsive.



#20 mickstoke

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Posted 15 January 2011 - 04:25 PM

 Posted Image

Posted Image



#21 shady_character19

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Posted 15 January 2011 - 04:38 PM

looking good mate [y] im defintely tempted by this ,great guide neil ! 



#22 mickstoke

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Posted 16 January 2011 - 03:28 PM

 Yeah wouldnt of done it with out this guide



#23 jambo005

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Posted 22 January 2011 - 01:55 PM

Subscribed! going to do this asap. cracking post



#24 MarkyMark1983

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Posted 23 January 2011 - 01:50 PM

i would replace the clap you have used mike with eithr a jub clip or a maklor clip woud hold it tighter.i need to remove my old valves will be doing this next week



#25 old_n07

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Posted 23 January 2011 - 02:23 PM

I'd replace that clamp as well Mick, if you want a clamp drop me a PM I might have a spare in my box of bits [y]



#26 mickstoke

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Posted 23 January 2011 - 02:48 PM

 got one a had with my kit. will get it on



#27 mickstoke

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Posted 23 January 2011 - 02:51 PM

 pipes i took off

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#28 MarkyMark1983

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Posted 24 January 2011 - 08:49 AM

Would having these valves still connected (power going to them) but not actually connected to the engine, make any difference to MPG? I am guessing not? Also as the pipes on mine at the moment arnt blocked off would they create a sound as they are all still plugged in(power going to the sensors), if you understand what i am meaning. :-)



#29 old_n07

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Posted 24 January 2011 - 08:53 AM

 If the valves are plugged in but no pipes on them then there is no problem


 If the valves are plugged in but the pipes are blocked where they connected to the EGR and anti shudder valve then there is no problem


 If the valves are plugged in but the pipes on them are open to atmosphere where they plugged into the EGR and anti shudder they will be drawing air into the vac system which will mean that the VNT mechanism probably won'y be working correctly and the vac pump will be over working all the time.


Neil



#30 Chris_Wales

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Posted 24 January 2011 - 08:56 AM

 I've ran this same setup since april with no issues [Y]







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