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PD vac line simplification (N18 + N239 valve delete)


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#361 northpole

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Posted 24 October 2018 - 11:16 AM

I just contacted both TPS and ParkwayVolkswagen in Leicester so am sure one of them will be able to help me. I wanted to ask if anyone knows what causes the oil breather pipe to start leaking oil, is it just wear and tear or could it just be one of the ends that's become loose or something, however i inspected it yesterday and nothing looked loose to me? 

it's hard plastics without a form of gasket ... it is just a snug fit and after a few years that'll start getting looser and when that happens it'll start leaking.... kind of a questionable design but probably chosen because it was to cut down manufacturing costs... the same type of setup has been used on the former older tdi's  (mk3 and mk2 ) but don't have that problem and when they do it is because the plastics have gone that badly it won't even stay on when the car is idling...  so it's very obvious that you need to replace it...on the mk4 not so obvious... 

 

and because of what i just explained i actually stated to upgrade the PCV to a closed circuit oil catch can...  see my previous reply ;)




#362 Bhavick

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Posted 24 October 2018 - 03:52 PM

it's hard plastics without a form of gasket ... it is just a snug fit and after a few years that'll start getting looser and when that happens it'll start leaking.... kind of a questionable design but probably chosen because it was to cut down manufacturing costs... the same type of setup has been used on the former older tdi's  (mk3 and mk2 ) but don't have that problem and when they do it is because the plastics have gone that badly it won't even stay on when the car is idling...  so it's very obvious that you need to replace it...on the mk4 not so obvious... 

 

and because of what i just explained i actually stated to upgrade the PCV to a closed circuit oil catch can...  see my previous reply ;)

 

That makes a lot more sense now, ours must have become loose over time and just started leaking. Either way it needs sorting asap so that's another thing that needs doing. Me personally i understand about the upgrade that you mentioned in your last post but as I've said before this car belongs to my brother and he's already told me he wants a genuine VW part only so i can't really argue with that. Even if it lasts a couple of years after fitting the new one am sure he'll be happy with that. In order to get this pipe off do you pry it off with a flat screw driver? 



#363 northpole

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Posted 24 October 2018 - 03:56 PM

You can yes but you can also just pull it off if you grab it right so it doesn't snap in half.. but how you wanted to do it is the safer option.

#364 Bhavick

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Posted 29 October 2018 - 12:52 PM

You can yes but you can also just pull it off if you grab it right so it doesn't snap in half.. but how you wanted to do it is the safer option.

 

When you undid the 13mm bolts to gain access to the turbo did you use a mini ratchet to remove them? The reason i ask is because i know there's not much space down there so i just wanted to know as i will need to purchase a ratchet set myself so i wanted to make sure i get the right size. I've watched this red line revs video and he seems to be using some kind of mini ratchet.

 



#365 northpole

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Posted 29 October 2018 - 01:49 PM

no i just used a normal 1/2 sized ratchet set with size 13mm and the angle bit between the socket and the extender... and i got them all off without removing anything else, but like i said it helps to be 6'1 tall i just unbolted the lot standing in front of the car and leaning on the engine used one hand to guide the socket on and than i was able to take it off... 

 

but if you can't do it just remove the stuff so you have a clear view off what you are doing mate... most people do it that way... 



#366 Smudger_130/4MO

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Posted 31 October 2018 - 03:58 PM

I did mine from underneath to loosen it but I used drive on ramps. Then used 3/8 ratchet with an extension on it. Came undone surprisingly easy
😡Never argue with an idiot!...... They will drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience😡

#367 Bhavick

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Posted 20 November 2018 - 11:43 AM

Hi,

 

I still haven't got round to cleaning the turbo out with Mr Muscle, i contacted r-tech yesterday and asked if they offered a turbo cleaning service and they said it would cost around £400 to completely strip it and clean it. They also mentioned that when you spray the turbo with Mr Muscle it can cause the turbo cores to go rusty over time? Is this true and has anyone had any experience with this? I just wanted a second opinion that's all. The reason i was even considering taking it to them is because i feel a complete clean from the inside out will be a lot better in the long run then just spraying Mr Muscle inside. But then i also know that Mr Muscle it has worked for a lot of people so am not too sure. 



#368 northpole

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Posted 20 November 2018 - 12:40 PM

no rust period... the product burns off that is the whole deal of going for that long drive on the motorway using mainly 3rd gear.... but nothing beats taking the turbo apart and properly cleaning it out but comparing the price differences MR. Muscle is the way to go especially since you can buy a new CHRA (turbo core with a new VNT mechanism and new seals) for around 250 pounds... that just means you'll have to take the turbo apart completely clean it up and replace the lot...  so their price isn't to bad but i would expect them to actually replace CHRA and recalibrate the turbo so it works as it should. 

 

ps if you think oke lets go for a new CHRA it can be DIY-ed but it isn't an easy job... plus the turbo will need to be calibrated so it opens up when it should that last bit can be very frustrating.... 



#369 Bhavick

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Posted 20 November 2018 - 01:10 PM

no rust period... the product burns off that is the whole deal of going for that long drive on the motorway using mainly 3rd gear.... but nothing beats taking the turbo apart and properly cleaning it out but comparing the price differences MR. Muscle is the way to go especially since you can buy a new CHRA (turbo core with a new VNT mechanism and new seals) for around 250 pounds... that just means you'll have to take the turbo apart completely clean it up and replace the lot...  so their price isn't to bad but i would expect them to actually replace CHRA and recalibrate the turbo so it works as it should. 

 

ps if you think oke lets go for a new CHRA it can be DIY-ed but it isn't an easy job... plus the turbo will need to be calibrated so it opens up when it should that last bit can be very frustrating.... 

 

Thanks northpole for your advice, yeah i think am gonna go with the Mr Muscle clean anyway. 


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#370 ginge30891

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Posted 10 January 2019 - 04:47 PM

Sorry to bring up an old thread. Just to be sure as I'm doing this on my 2000 pd115 passat. I can remove the reservoir and the one way valve? The rest is pretty simple. I just worry that getting rid of them will cause "runaway deisel"

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#371 TomasLT

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Posted 10 January 2019 - 05:22 PM

All sorts of wrong. Runaway and one way valve are not related. You probably meant asv (anti shudder valve or whatevs). If you are not going to straight pipe to intake mani and remove egr and asv valves, you van just operate the lever yourself when the need arises, which happens in 1/10mil cars. Actual one way valve must remain because you won’t have enough vacuum. You can remove the ball reservoir thing, but unless you are doing it for looks, I’d keep it.
And getting back to runaway, all sorts of shenanigans must happen for it to happen. So if runaway does happen (which it won’t), you can only blame yourself for having such a recklessly uncared for, engine. Just follow the pictures.


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Edited by TomasLT, 10 January 2019 - 05:24 PM.

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#372 ginge30891

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Posted 10 January 2019 - 05:24 PM

All sorts of wrong. Runaway and one way valve are not related. You probably meant asv (anti shudder valve or whatevs). Actual one way valve must remain because you won’t have enough vacuum. You can remove the ball reservoir thing, but unless you are doing it for looks, I’d keep it.
And getting back to runaway, all sorts of shenanigans must happen for it to happen. So if runaway does happen (which it won’t), you can only blame yourself for having such a recklessly uncared for, engine. Just follow the pictures


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Thanks dude. Well asv will be coming out as we know it's part of the egr. Tbf I've cared for this engine for aslong as I've had it but I'm not sure on its past life. I got it on 198k miles and I'm now close to 210k.

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#373 TomasLT

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Posted 10 January 2019 - 05:28 PM

It’s gonna be fine, you have bigger chance winning a lottery than having a runaway


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#374 ginge30891

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Posted 14 January 2019 - 12:47 PM

Just found this on YouTube. Really simple tutorial on how to do this.
https://youtu.be/c44jQUZKtws
Hope this helps

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#375 leaf

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Posted 22 March 2019 - 12:47 PM

Just found this on YouTube. Really simple tutorial on how to do this.

Hope this helps

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That engine looks sideways to me :whistle:

 

Finally got around to doing this myself on my ASZ, looks complicated before you start but once you've separated out the parts and valves and are left with only the N75 it's extremely simple.

 

No lights on the dash, deleted N18 + N239 and left the plugs hanging for now.

 

Just waiting till I've got the car in the air to change the vacuum hose to the turbo underneath.







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