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MonK-E's Compound (twincharged) project


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#61 MonK-E

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Posted 17 September 2017 - 04:51 PM

Haha yeah a snoozer bug sounds good :Y:

No argument 600bhp+ would be good. Not so useable as a every day road car though. But I honestly can't afford to go that far. Or it would take years to complete and I'd run the risk of another unfinished project.


#62 mks2310

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Posted 17 September 2017 - 06:39 PM

Yellow is the daily 220 on standard ko3 put extras etc intercooler, tip, Decat, exhaust system. Have ko3s hybrid to fit and rods f01c8e82f74010b64f045f780020c493.jpg

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#63 mks2310

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Posted 17 September 2017 - 06:45 PM

Silver v5 sport now with tt v6 engine in. V5 box and vr6 flywheel and clutch. Has down pipes and Decat. Needs remapping. But go's really well as it is lol98387d880522ffefabd2fb661ea7e4d0.jpg

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#64 TomasLT

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Posted 17 September 2017 - 07:18 PM

I like you. More photos?


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#65 MonK-E

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Posted 17 September 2017 - 09:04 PM

@mks2310 spot on, thanks for posting pics. It's given me a idea of what they are like under the skin. Is there much room between the crash bar and the rad to fit a dirty great FMIC. If not it probably won't be much hassle to fabricate another bar tbh

#66 mks2310

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Posted 17 September 2017 - 11:07 PM

Crash bar needs modifying to take large cooler than the one I have. Will do mine when hybrid is installed. But been on going for years. Was going to quattro the silver bug. But didn't want to lose rear seats. Mite quattro yellow one as I still have tt left over
f3bc707d2444441c781816544dbf5ea5.jpg2e98bba2d8e4a384b8a5a1f526d328b7.jpg94c99aa829d149d1aa133dcd69170880.jpg

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#67 Franko180

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Posted 17 September 2017 - 11:22 PM

Silver v5 sport now with tt v6 engine in. V5 box and vr6 flywheel and clutch. Has down pipes and Decat. Needs remapping. But go's really well as it is lol

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Lovely job on the 3.2. Not that many fans of V6 motors on this forum with the usual "thirsty / heavy / slow" comments but I'm a big fan, such a nice drive having the mix of the low end torque and the fact you can rev them right out all day long and they don't feel like they are going to throw a rod and seem to love it.  :Y:


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MK4 Golf R32 - Rescue Build Thread  ++ Full licensed VCDS (VAG COM), key coding, cluster coding, diagnostics etc.++


#68 northpole

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Posted 18 September 2017 - 06:34 AM

I love a v6 petrol engine it just has to be an R32 engine though on the mk4 platform... and it needs a turbo to really release the hidden power... a low boost setup (just up to 1 bar) will see you about 350 bhp and that is just plumbing a cheap turbo kit in (yes that is with the oem mapping).... pay about 2.5k with a better turbo and uprated injectors and that figure is upwards of 430 bhp but you will need a custom map... also if you drive it on a daily basis adding a turbo (or supercharger) actually make them more economical... I still don't get why VW haven't fitted R32 engines with forced induction from the factory.... 



#69 MonK-E

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Posted 18 September 2017 - 02:51 PM

@northpole yup completely agree with that, nothing wrong with the vr6 once boosted. Definitely should of been doing it from factory especially with SFI on petrols now.

#70 barrym381

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Posted 18 September 2017 - 05:34 PM

Lovely job on the 3.2. Not that many fans of V6 motors on this forum with the usual "thirsty / heavy / slow" comments but I'm a big fan, such a nice drive having the mix of the low end torque and the fact you can rev them right out all day long and they don't feel like they are going to throw a rod and seem to love it. :Y:


Well I can admit to being a big fan of the v6 I just had to get myself another one to replace my 1.8t

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#71 madkat

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Posted 19 September 2017 - 03:51 PM

Owing a Golf mk4 VR6, and knowing how hot in can run when pushed hard (and it kindof invites you to do so) i fail to understand how such engine can survive without overheating in such a grill-less body as the beetle...

 

i know, much fan, much run, wow, you'll say, but i don't think it's quite ok...


Hoping for the best, but expecting the worst.


#72 mks2310

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Posted 19 September 2017 - 05:07 PM

It has 2 radiators as standard on the v5.
1 is were the intercooler would be on a 18t

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#73 MonK-E

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Posted 19 September 2017 - 07:15 PM

My topend gasket kit turned up. Which I was all happy about. Until I opened it and found no valve stem seals WTF it was supposed to be a complete kit.
It annoyed me so much I had to go out to the shed and put another coat of paint on the block to calm myself.

360.jpg

#74 Ben L

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Posted 19 September 2017 - 07:53 PM

My topend gasket kit turned up. Which I was all happy about. Until I opened it and found no valve stem seals WTF it was supposed to be a complete kit.
It annoyed me so much I had to go out to the shed and put another coat of paint on the block to calm myself.

360.jpg

 

 

Block's looking nice! Subbed to this thread with interest. I'd like to see 350bhp in a bug :D 


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#75 MonK-E

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Posted 19 September 2017 - 08:15 PM

Block's looking nice! Subbed to this thread with interest. I'd like to see 350bhp in a bug :D


Cheers bud, should be a nice straight forward build. Nothing too spectacular. apparently you can fit a gt30 in a bug without much fuss so a little 28 should be nice and easy
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#76 Ben L

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Posted 19 September 2017 - 09:53 PM

Cheers bud, should be a nice straight forward build. Nothing too spectacular. apparently you can fit a gt30 in a bug without much fuss so a little 28 should be nice and easy

I'm surprised a GT30 would fit down the back of a bug! I was recently at J-tech in Reading type-neck-of-the-woods for some servicing, and they had a 28 bolted up to a super clean looking Mk2 Rallye with a built BAM conversion + Haldex, and that was very much over the back of the lump not so much tucked into the firewall.  Are you planning on relocating the snail with some mani fabbing or is it intended to live in place of the stock jobbie?



#77 MonK-E

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Posted 20 September 2017 - 05:33 AM

Apparently the gt30 fits in more of a top mount position. With a portion of the heat shield removed and a bit of manipulation of the bulkhead.

I'm not sure yet. I'm seriously thinking about making another manifold, a bit like the one I made for the twincharger project. Or I could just pickup a nice cheap cast manifold and have it roughly in the stock position. Plus cast is better for multiple high temp heat cycling really.
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#78 MonK-E

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Posted 22 September 2017 - 07:19 PM

I whipped off the sump this evening. Some real manky oil used in this for some time by the looks.

360.jpg


Then off with the windage plate and oil pump.

360.jpg


Popped piston and rod 1 out and compared it to a AGU rod and piston.
Note how the later rod is a one piece desigh that is fractured to fit the big end shells. All done to save at least 3 machining proceeds and probably saved them millions just on that one design change. Still it's of no consequence as neither of these rods are being reused.

360.jpg

#79 rainbird

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Posted 23 September 2017 - 09:37 AM

Cracked rods like that also make for a stronger join - the irregular surface from cracking rather than cutting helps avoid things moving around at all which is relatively rare, but could cause major issues. Win:win.

 

Iffy oil aside, how are things looking inside the bottom end?


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#80 MonK-E

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Posted 23 September 2017 - 11:05 AM

That's a very good point, it would give a lot more surface area for the cap and rod to lock together.

On initial look the bottom end is looking spot on. Very little visual wear, about what you would expect from a 40-50k mile engine. Later this afternoon I'll start mic'ing up parts to make sure and update on what I find

#81 rainbird

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Posted 23 September 2017 - 01:38 PM

Sounds like a decent base lump to work on. Nice to see another build with a focus on attention to detail too. Since things shifted primarily to Facebook they're harder to come by, but nothing compares to a nice detailed build!
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#82 MonK-E

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Posted 23 September 2017 - 02:25 PM

The engine was a right little local bargain. £150 complete with a 5speed 4wd box that I sold on for £90. So it only really cost me £60 :)


Yeah I completely agree. Facebook has brought allot of forums to their knees, then with Photobucket being complete money grabbing c***s. I'm surprised it hasn't completely killed them all off.
I miss spending a few hours of an evening reading through long build threads with loads of pics and valuable info, something FB will never have.
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#83 northpole

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Posted 23 September 2017 - 03:09 PM

The engine was a right little local bargain. £150 complete with a 5speed 4wd box that I sold on for £90. So it only really cost me £60 :)


Yeah I completely agree. Facebook has brought allot of forums to their knees, then with Photobucket being complete money grabbing c***s. I'm surprised it hasn't completely killed them all off.
I miss spending a few hours of an evening reading through long build threads with loads of pics and valuable info, something FB will never have.

I can't deal with Facebook orientated forums they do my head in.... to many rubbish and stupid stuff is on it
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#84 MonK-E

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Posted 23 September 2017 - 07:26 PM

So I popped the other rods and Pistons out. All the bearing surfaces look immaculate

360.jpg


I removed the piston rings and labelled them using cable ties. Depending on how they measure up in the boars I may just clean them up and re use them

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Then using a micrometer measured all the Pistons, they are all within 0.01mm of each other

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Just to make it a bit easier for everyone to see the rough measurement from imperial to metric obviously the vernier is no where near as accurate as the micrometer.

360.jpg



Then on to measuring the AGU Pistons I want to clean up and use.
Turns out they are also within 0.01mm of the originals even though they have done another 60 or more k miles on top of what the ARX engine has done.

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Thought I'd best check the crank end float while I'm at it. 0.07mm I'll have to look the spec up for this as I can't remember what it is off the top of my head.

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Hopefully get some more time to play tomorrow ;)

#85 rainbird

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Posted 23 September 2017 - 08:44 PM

Bottom end of the limits so no concerns there.

 

5nerRfF.png

 

In fairness, I'm yet to see a reasonable condition crank to be out by much.

 

I assume you have the Bentley manual? If not drop me an email address and I'll get it over to you (Y)

 

Top work on the clearancing. I'd go for new rings though if at all possible. Light hone providing it's still within tolerance and fresh rings for a good seal.


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#86 MonK-E

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Posted 23 September 2017 - 09:37 PM

Spot on, like new then :)

Yeah I have the Bentley PDF on the laptop, just been too lazy to fire it up. Thanks anyway dude :Y:

Normally I'd totally agree and slap a new set of rings in, I have a 83mm flex/ball hone which would do the job just fine.

However I think this might be the first time I've come across an engine that I think I will be able to get away with not doing them.
All the evidence so far says that the mileage is pretty bang on advertised. The bores are in excellent visual condition, I'll check tomorrow with my dial bore gauge. There's no feelable lip where the compression rings hit TDC, just a polished ring. It's still got very visible crosshatching all the way down the bores (I know that doesn't really mean a great deal) but before I really make a decision wheather or not to re use them will come down to the measurements taken from the dial bore gauge, ring gap and thickness.
If they are like the rest of the engine as in like new tolerances, I would see no reason to put a fresh set in and might as well save myself a couple of hundred £ on rings, seals, main bolts and what not.



This is when I first took the head off. It's hard to tell from a pic but they are in unbelievably good condition.

360.jpg

Either way the measurments will be the deciding factor in all honesty, if any are near the limit then they all will be done ;) :Y:

#87 rainbird

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Posted 23 September 2017 - 09:56 PM

Please don't reuse the main bolts. As much as I get the thinking behind reusing the rings (and those bores do look mighty fresh!) the mains are a single use item and have been known to go on relatively low-powered stuff after being reused.

 

Props for checking every measurement. I did much the same, though didn't really keep a lasting record of it all which I should have for future reference. Such a loser.


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#88 MonK-E

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Posted 23 September 2017 - 10:44 PM

Haha yeah don't worry, I think you slightly misunderstood me a little bit. I'd never reuse main bolts if they have been disturbed.
I'd only need to replace them if I undone them, which I don't plan on doing if the rings and bores are good.
There would be no point in taking the crank out, the bigends seem to be in spot on condition so I don't see any reason to believe the main shells would be any different. Same goes for the crank seals I'd only replace them if necessary I.e. If damaged or I disturbed them in any way. Obviously with forged rods the bigend shells will be replaced along with using arp rod bolts though :Y:
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#89 MonK-E

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Posted 24 September 2017 - 04:00 PM

Half this morning was spent on my other track bike project.

360.jpg


Then went on to measuring a few more bits and bobs

The book says max bore deviation is 0.08mm
I measured each bore, front/back and side/side in 3 places. Top middle and bottom. Max deviation I had on the worst bore was 0.15mm that's just over half a thou in old money(0.00059"). Which is by far the best result ever. I've seen new honed perfectly good bores be out by 1 thou.

360.jpg



Then I got the rings out and checked the gaps (more for the sake of it than anything) by this point I was very confident that they was going to be good.
Book says new tolerance is 0.20mm to 0.40mm and wear limit is 0.80mm.
All top compression rings were 0.31mm, good as new.

360.jpg



After such a good turnout with the bores and top rings I thought there's not much point in measuring the 2nd comp ring and oil scrapers.
So I gathered them up re cable tied them and have left them to soak in a tub of jizer for the next couple of days

360.jpg

#90 Adam_Jonezy

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Posted 24 September 2017 - 10:58 PM

Love the thread and detailed updates mate, il be keeping a close eye on this 👍

I've also come across this as well, not sure if it would be any good to you but if it goes cheap might be worth a punt...

https://m.ebay.co.uk...217?_mwBanner=1
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