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VW Bora V6 4motion Fuel Pump Buzzing?


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#31 northpole

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Posted 10 April 2020 - 09:14 AM

Yes the fuel pressure should stay constant but... I did the upgrade on mine when I blueprinted my engine and the need for more fuel at a faster rate couldn't be supplied by the oem fuelpump... I also ran a higher pressure in the fuel rail than a standard vr6....


#32 northpole

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Posted 10 April 2020 - 09:17 AM

Ps cover the access panel to the pump in dynamat and the rest of the floor, not the pump... but that should be obvious
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#33 JustBaron

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Posted 10 April 2020 - 09:19 AM

Ps cover the access panel to the pump in dynamat and the rest of the floor, not the pump... but that should be obvious

Yeah, obviously.


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#34 JustBaron

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Posted 15 April 2020 - 07:56 AM

Ok, so I've ordered a second-hand stock fuel pump and some Dynamat for starters.

I'd like to check the replacement pump before adding a Walbro 255 pump.

I've seen a few write ups about how to remove/replace the fuel pump, and am planning on using this as a guide:

https://www.r32oc.co...moval-diyhowto/

 

But are there any additional steps that need to be taken for 4motion/saddle pumps/tanks?

 

For example, this post mentions a siphon hose: https://www.vr6oc.co...th-old-and-new/

 

But I don't know where this fits into the 4motion pump/tank..



#35 northpole

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Posted 15 April 2020 - 08:19 AM

If yours has it it will be connected to the pump and if it is floating about... well you need to get it between that gap in the picture... it's not rocket science mate... it needs to be submerged in the fuel and that is the way to keep it down...

#36 JustBaron

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Posted 15 April 2020 - 12:40 PM

If yours has it it will be connected to the pump and if it is floating about... well you need to get it between that gap in the picture... it's not rocket science mate... it needs to be submerged in the fuel and that is the way to keep it down...

Ok thanks man. I appreciate it's not rocket science and sorry for the basic questions, but I haven't attempted anything like this before.
Airing on the side of caution though, I'd rather know in advance rather than stop/start in the middle of the swap...
 
I've got the 1J0 919 051 G pump in the OS tank; and the 1J0 919 673 N suction jet pump in the NS tank.
 
So I am guessing that it will look something like this: 

01.jpg

 

02.jpg
 
The black hose looks like the siphon hose to the suction pump; which appears to be mounted onto the fuel pump. So when I remove the fuel pump; I just carefully detach this?
As for the brown hose; is it advised to remove this from the fuel pump end or the suction pump end?
 
Cheers



#37 northpole

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Posted 15 April 2020 - 12:53 PM

Fuel pump end... and honestly it is not as daunting as it seems to be, actually it's quite easy the hardest bit will be getting the pump with the level sensor out of the hole.

Tip here it needs a quarter turn...and try to do it when the tank is as nearer to empty... if you want to make sure you've got enough fuel in the tank until you are going to do it, just fill up a jerrycan and keep it in the car and when you fill up just fill up enough for the trip until you are going to tackle the job.

It helps immensely not having to stick your hands into the fuel... granted it is petrol but the smell will be in your skin for a day if you have to much fuel in the tank...brake cleaner helps but than you smell of that.

Also if you have access to marigold household gloves (I got black ones) use them to get it out saves you from smelling like fuel...
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#38 JustBaron

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Posted 15 April 2020 - 01:27 PM

Fuel pump end... and honestly it is not as daunting as it seems to be, actually it's quite easy the hardest bit will be getting the pump with the level sensor out of the hole.

Tip here it needs a quarter turn...and try to do it when the tank is as nearer to empty... if you want to make sure you've got enough fuel in the tank until you are going to do it, just fill up a jerrycan and keep it in the car and when you fill up just fill up enough for the trip until you are going to tackle the job.

It helps immensely not having to stick your hands into the fuel... granted it is petrol but the smell will be in your skin for a day if you have to much fuel in the tank...brake cleaner helps but than you smell of that.

Also if you have access to marigold household gloves (I got black ones) use them to get it out saves you from smelling like fuel...

 

Awesome, thanks again dude.

I think I've got enough to give it a whirl once the replacement pump arrives. 

Will let you know how it goes.


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#39 JustBaron

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Posted 20 April 2020 - 01:10 PM

Right, replacement pump arrived.

Removed old and installed new. A bit fiddly but no way rocket science.

New pump doesn't prime and the car does not start!

Removed new pump and installed old one just to be sure and, as expected the car starts.

 

Will have to send the replacement pump back and look for another one.



#40 ttg4l

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Posted 20 April 2020 - 03:00 PM

That's very annoying.


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#41 JustBaron

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Posted 20 April 2020 - 03:16 PM

That's very annoying.

Tell me about it!

I might give it one more go later. Just to be triple sure.



#42 JustBaron

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Posted 21 April 2020 - 09:53 AM

Tried the new pump again this morning and it blew fuse 28.

Replaced fuse and old pump and its now working again.

 

Told the seller and he said:

 

"Did you check if the pump is free? Please knock it a few times, it may be a little stiff through time."

 

Is it worth doing this? And any tips on where/how I should knock it; and if I need to remove the pump from the housing first.

 

Instinct tells me I should send it back.



#43 ttg4l

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Posted 21 April 2020 - 10:05 AM

Send it back.

The only time knocking a pump works is if it's old, gummy and failing.

A good, used pump should just need to be installed and working.
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#44 JustBaron

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Posted 21 April 2020 - 10:29 AM

Send it back.

The only time knocking a pump works is if it's old, gummy and failing.

A good, used pump should just need to be installed and working.

 

That's what I thought, thanks.



#45 northpole

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Posted 21 April 2020 - 10:35 AM

Yes send it back it should work on arrival... if it is stuck and needs tapping, it means the inside has corroded... it should go in the bin not be sold as a replacement... because when you've finally got the pump to start working again the stuff that made it be stuck in the first place will end up clogging the fuel system down the line(filter and injectors)...
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#46 JustBaron

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Posted 25 April 2020 - 12:08 PM

Still waiting for the seller to accept the return so in the meantime I found another one that came with one year guarantee.

 

It arrived from Holland within two days and fitted it this morning.

 

Sounds exactly the same as my original.

 

So it looks like I could have been going a bit mad.

 

Installed the original and sent the replacement back.

 

Added some Dynamat Extreme tape and Dodo lining and has made a load of difference.

 

I guess the original issue was a bit too subjective and that my previous Bora must have had a particularly quite pump...or had so many other issues that I simply didn't notice it.

 

Anyway, thanks for all your tips and advice.

 

Baron 


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#47 ttg4l

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Posted 25 April 2020 - 12:42 PM

Good to hear you've come to a conclusion. The take away is you've gained peace of mind that your pump isn't failing.
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#48 Neutron

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Posted 28 May 2020 - 01:15 PM

I use Lucas Oil Fuel Treatment https://lucasoil.com...-fuel-treatment in my wake boat (dual fuel LPG/Petrol hence the need for a bit of lubricant) and tried in both my cars (Golf 4motion + Honda S2000) for both of them the biggest difference was quieter fuel pumps. Might be worth a go if it's driving you crazy - doesn't seem to need it every tank to keep the noise down either.







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