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110 VE no power / limp mode


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#1 Lorcy

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Posted 19 May 2020 - 02:26 PM

During the lockdown my car has decided to go into limp mode with a code indicating control unit problem or overboost (not likely, I only drove it gently). Switching off and on again does not clear it. It takes a loooong time to reach 30mph. My garage cleared the code but it happened again as soon as the engine was started.

 

I suspect some hoses in the engine bay which I've previously been told were perishing. Where do I start looking? Also been told that the spigot the hoses push onto get brittle and break off. Great.

 

Any tips before I go delving welcome...




#2 northpole

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Posted 19 May 2020 - 03:24 PM

Yeah be careful use some form of lubrication when replacing the vacuum pipes... than since you got time... cleanout the vnt mechanism on the turbo...

#3 adam-

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Posted 19 May 2020 - 03:38 PM

What is the exact code?  Overboost is vanes.


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#4 Lorcy

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Posted 19 May 2020 - 06:47 PM

Yeah be careful use some form of lubrication when replacing the vacuum pipes... than since you got time... cleanout the vnt mechanism on the turbo...

 

I'm still working full time so have no more spare time than usual but thanks, will do.



#5 Lorcy

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Posted 19 May 2020 - 07:57 PM

Is it 4mm vacuum hose?



#6 ttg4l

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Posted 19 May 2020 - 08:54 PM

I think 3mm if you want a really snug fit, 4mm should work alright too, just you might need a cable tie in a couple places.


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#7 Lorcy

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Posted 20 May 2020 - 09:43 AM

What is the exact code?  Overboost is vanes.

 

P65535.



#8 adam-

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Posted 20 May 2020 - 09:56 AM

That's a bad ECU/file/tune.

 

http://wiki.ross-tec...index.php/65535


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#9 Lorcy

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Posted 20 May 2020 - 10:33 AM

Ah, I bet I know what that is. I had the battery on charge during the lockdown and had to disconnect the leads to charge it. Something not back on right. Thanks!



#10 northpole

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Posted 20 May 2020 - 10:40 AM

I was just about to say that the 110 VE engines in golfs are notoriously hard to remap... as most of them are the AHF... people usually don't bother... the ASV is easier to remap... anyway go and check your wiring on the battery...  and for future posts... please actually say what has been done before you started having problems... and if you ave fault codes always put the fault code up.  



#11 Lorcy

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Posted 21 May 2020 - 10:09 AM

I had forgotten about the charging and didn't have the fault code available at the time of posting, but point taken. 

 

I found that the negative battery terminal connection was loose, now tightened but it hasn't made any difference. Perhaps the code needs clearing again?  



#12 adam-

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Posted 21 May 2020 - 10:14 AM

Worth noting the last bullet on Ross-tech:

 

When found in certain older TDI Engine Control Modules (ECM) which have a vacuum line going to them:
Check/Repair the Vacuum Line before and inside the ECM.

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#13 northpole

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Posted 21 May 2020 - 03:10 PM

If he got an AHF than he doesn't have that... maybe someone messed with the ve pump and knocked it back to deliver almost no fuel.... (i did that once one full tank took me 2 months to empty but the car didn't go past 60 mph full open throttle) or as said before the VNT is gummed up completely... now if you are still running the oem vacuum lines i suggest you replace them for silicone vacuum lines 3mm (do not use them as injector leak-off pipes they'll slowly deteriorate) and take the turbo off split the vnt from the turbo and clean the thing out... the reason why i point out the vacuum lines is because the by now they are hard and cracked in most places unless you've changed them already.

#14 adam-

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Posted 22 May 2020 - 06:55 AM

If you have that fault as soon as the ignition is cycled it's nothing mechanical. 


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#15 northpole

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Posted 22 May 2020 - 07:31 AM

If you have that fault as soon as the ignition is cycled it's nothing mechanical.

I I didn't suggest that I was on about his car not being able to go past 30mph... but he needs to sort out that fault code... basically check all the ground points. Clean them and reconnect them, same for the plus from battery to starter and ecu, clean the ECU connector and check if the fault code is gone...

If it is gone than the next thing would be the vnt mechanism, assuming nothing else was disturbed.

#16 Lorcy

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Posted 22 May 2020 - 07:58 AM

There's no vacuum line going to the ECU but the hoses are looking a bit sorry for themselves. The cloth braid is chafed through in places, although I can't see any cracks in the rubber underneath it doesn't mean there aren't any. The mounting bracket has come away from the bulkhead - how is this supposed to be attached?

 

q0VKCfv.jpg
 

I'm a bit unsure about using silicone as a replacement. I think I'd be happy using braided again and replacing all the t-pieces as these will probably also be brittle by now.

 

My tech advised disconnecting the battery for 3 minutes to clear the memory or something. Tried that but it didn't make any difference.



#17 adam-

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Posted 22 May 2020 - 08:10 AM

Disconnecting the battery won't do anything. Is that your only code?  I'd be tempted to source another ECU and see if that code is persistent. Worth buying on an auction site, testing and then returning if it doesn't work...


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#18 northpole

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Posted 22 May 2020 - 08:11 AM

Why for one it is cheaper and for seconds it is much more durable than those rubber vacuum pipes... just use that already... I used to have a mk4 110 AHF and did the exact same you'll need to buy 5 meters of silicone vacuum pipe than replace the lot, remove one pipe hold it next to your new silicone 5m pipe and cut the same length off, than put the new one on...

Those things are connected through the firewall you can see the 2 bits it used to connect to....just use a cable tie and secure it to something else once you've replaced the lot... ps if you use WD40 on those little connectors you'll be able to pull the old pipes right off... do the same with the silicone pipes to push them on and nothing will break...
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#19 adam-

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Posted 22 May 2020 - 08:25 AM

ps if you use WD40 on those little connectors you'll be able to pull the old pipes right off... do the same with the silicone pipes to push them on and nothing will break...

 

Good tip.  A small 90* pick will help get under the original pipe.  Once under, flick it round and it'll crack the pipe off the fitting and it'll pull right off.  A little WD or silicone lube and the new pipes slide right on.  IMO i'd go silicone too.


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#20 Lorcy

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Posted 22 May 2020 - 09:08 AM

Thanks for the advice chaps.


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#21 Lorcy

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Posted 23 June 2020 - 05:14 AM

My tech has been out with some kind of device that monitors vacuum and everything on the control side is working as it should, including the actuator. Still no boost though. He's 99% sure it needs a new turbo, but would it really go from full boost to no boost overnight? Turbos usually smoke and get noisy when they fail, this was working perfectly pre-lockdown.

 

If it does need a new turbo I guess it could be a drama getting the old one off with broken studs etc? I don't want a massive repair bill for a top end rebuild at the end of the day, I'd rather cut my losses and get something else.



#22 northpole

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Posted 23 June 2020 - 05:17 AM

My tech has been out with some kind of device that monitors vacuum and everything on the control side is working as it should, including the actuator. Still no boost though. He's 99% sure it needs a new turbo, but would it really go from full boost to no boost overnight? Turbos usually smoke and get noisy when they fail, this was working perfectly pre-lockdown.

If it does need a new turbo I guess it could be a drama getting the old one off with broken studs etc? I don't want a massive repair bill for a top end rebuild at the end of the day, I'd rather cut my losses and get something else.

No it doesn't the only thing that I know would do that is the VNT mechanism... and that can be cleaned...

#23 Lorcy

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Posted 23 June 2020 - 05:42 AM

How? Is there a guide somewhere? Does it mean taking the turbo off?



#24 northpole

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Posted 23 June 2020 - 05:59 AM

Lookup mr muscle vnt cleaning... but before you do anything... try and move the lever on the turbo if it's not smooth and easy to move than it is stuck.

It should be really easy to move it by the push of your index finger...

Ps l have written a few times on how to do it on the car it is quite detailed so I suggest you look it up.
Ans when you find it... follow every step... especially the bit that says take it for a 80 mile 3rd gear run on the motorway..

#25 adam-

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Posted 23 June 2020 - 08:25 AM

Struggling to see how vanes could cause this.  Even if it is, it's soft limp and will clear with an ignition cycle and you'll get one good shove of boost before it trips again.


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#26 northpole

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Posted 23 June 2020 - 09:42 AM

it can happen if he left it for a long time the gummy tar like substance got hard... and isn't soft enough to get the vnt mechanism to open properly... 

isay remove the down pipe fill it with MR muscle, work the leaver until it is smooth to the touch put downpipe back, take it for a 80 mile rd gear motorway rash, if it hits limpmode, rolling start an keep doing that until the car stops going into limp mode... 

 

and FYI the turbo on the 110 VE engine is seriously reliable, they don't easily pop a seal or need to be rebalanced, unlike the PD versions, because the ECU on most of them can't be flashed via the OBD port.. has to be done on a bench... so most of them don't ever get to be pushed to their limits.  



#27 Lorcy

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Posted 23 June 2020 - 12:34 PM

The actuator arm has got full movement but is a little graunchy in the middle of the stroke, so we're going to remove the turbo for a proper clean and if there is anything broken replace it. If it just needs a clean it can be put back on the car. The car has never been remapped. Thanks again for your advice. I did look up the Mr Muscle thing but it's not for me.



#28 Lorcy

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Posted 27 June 2020 - 05:45 PM

Update: The Yellow Peril rides again. Working the actuator rod with penetrating fluid then resetting the code then disconnecting the battery for 3 mins did the trick. No need for turbo removal or kitchen cleaner, at least for now.

 

Our theory is that the VNT mechanism got sticky over lockdown and wouldn't return to zero boost at idle, triggering the fault code from start up and creating the limp mode condition. Took it for a good drive today fully warm and all is well.

 

Thanks again for all the input chaps.



#29 northpole

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Posted 27 June 2020 - 05:53 PM

Update: The Yellow Peril rides again. Working the actuator rod with penetrating fluid then resetting the code then disconnecting the battery for 3 mins did the trick. No need for turbo removal or kitchen cleaner, at least for now.

Our theory is that the VNT mechanism got sticky over lockdown and wouldn't return to zero boost at idle, triggering the fault code from start up and creating the limp mode condition. Took it for a good drive today fully warm and all is well.

Thanks again for all the input chaps.

It won't last long I did it before and it worked for a week or so than got stiff again...

Also the oven cleaner works because of the LYE that is in the product... it actually breaks up the soot and gummy build up.. Penetrating fluid will just make it soft and it'll stay right where it is...

But you'll find out soon enough...

Ps look up what all the turbo cleaners have as a main chemical... yes it's lye....





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