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Switch Between 2 inputs - Relay?

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#31 adam-

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Posted 29 June 2020 - 03:57 PM

*I like the clamping diode you've got too, nice touch! 


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#32 vwgtiking

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Posted 29 June 2020 - 03:58 PM

If I right in thinking I could put diodes on each wire then link the wires together and run one wire? As the voltage will not pass the diode back down the wire to the leds?


Then step up voltage to what ever the illumination wire will read? And No need for relay?

#33 NooNoo

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Posted 29 June 2020 - 03:59 PM

With that eBay PCB, you need 0V, 12V, 12V to relay common, then the two diodes cathodes would connect to the green connector IN+. 0V to green connector GND.

 

Relay N/O to boost gauge.

 

The relay solution will work above, but I'd go for 2K7 and be choosy on relay choice.

 

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#34 NooNoo

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Posted 29 June 2020 - 04:02 PM

If your step up (boost converter) will work from 1.4V you just need the two diodes... That's quite a low voltage for a boost converter!

 

:)


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#35 vwgtiking

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Posted 29 June 2020 - 04:16 PM

Oh damn yeah that’s true.

What transistor will need. Just type in transistor and anyone will be fine.

I bought this one last week?

https://www.ebay.co....tm/152752199872

#36 NooNoo

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Posted 29 June 2020 - 04:23 PM

No relay, 2 stage...

 

TuKf84D.jpg


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#37 vwgtiking

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Posted 29 June 2020 - 04:29 PM

No relay, 2 stage...

TuKf84D.jpg

After the second 10k. Is at 11v?

What’s with Additional looping etc?

Also is the 10k the resistor value? And do I pick up any npn transistor?

#38 Imagewerx

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Posted 29 June 2020 - 05:03 PM

Before you do all this,try connecting it to the sidelights (front or rear) and let us know if that works ok.



#39 adam-

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Posted 29 June 2020 - 05:05 PM

Before you do all this,try connecting it to the sidelights (front or rear) and let us know if that works ok.

 

KISS.


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#40 Imagewerx

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Posted 29 June 2020 - 05:19 PM

Oh and of course if the cars got them,NOT the ones that work as daytime running lights.



#41 NooNoo

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Posted 29 June 2020 - 05:30 PM

I would still find a better source or buy the comparator PCB off eBay.

It's too much hassle building up these circuits.

:)

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#42 Imagewerx

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Posted 29 June 2020 - 05:34 PM

I would still find a better source or buy the comparator PCB off eBay.

It's too much hassle building up these circuits.

:)

Anything like an Arduino relay driver board will do,there's aenough of those on there.



#43 vwgtiking

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Posted 29 June 2020 - 05:40 PM

Before you do all this,try connecting it to the sidelights (front or rear) and let us know if that works ok.


Side lights permanently on. (Angel eyes). The 12v fuse for headlights is a constant live

#44 Imagewerx

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Posted 29 June 2020 - 06:07 PM

Side lights permanently on. (Angel eyes). The 12v fuse for headlights is a constant live

They're daytime running lights,use the rear lights instead.



#45 vwgtiking

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Posted 30 June 2020 - 03:03 PM

They're daytime running lights,use the rear lights instead.


I think they are led too.

#46 vwgtiking

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Posted 30 June 2020 - 06:40 PM

You will be pleased to know that due to perseverance from you guys, to find an alternative source, I decided to check the rear lights. Thankfully cos they are pre lci they are still 12v so I ran a wire from there to the front (from 2015 same f30 got led rears). I didn’t really want to cut into the original loom but I did with a little bit of dodgy soldering and wiring through the grommet (that’s lines you the lights) it still sat pretty flush. That’s how I got the wire in to the boot. Then A bit of mission through the boot by pulling up carpet but got to back seats. Then it was easy. All done.

Thank you for your help.
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#47 Imagewerx

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Posted 30 June 2020 - 07:05 PM

Glad you got it working in the end,but you could get to that same wire behind the kickpanel or at the end of the dashboard.



#48 vwgtiking

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Posted 30 June 2020 - 10:05 PM

Glad you got it working in the end,but you could get to that same wire behind the kickpanel or at the end of the dashboard.


It’s all controlled by canbus there is nowhere else to cut into. The headlight wiring is so compact and access is hard. To change a bulb you have to take the front wheel off.


In golf mk4 I would either use the lighter 12v illumination or splice from the headlight switch. In this car the 12v socket has no illumination and the wiring for the headlight switch is all in enclosed units. Again controlled by can bus.

The fuse box is split up. One row is ignition live and the other row is constant live. The headlights are a constant live. Seems odd to me.

#49 adam-

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Posted 01 July 2020 - 06:46 AM

Are you sure they're not controlled by the BCM?


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#50 Imagewerx

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Posted 01 July 2020 - 02:15 PM

It's controlled by CAN-BUS on a separate network,the lighting wires themselves are 12 volts and don't carry CAN data and will go up to the front of the car where they're connected to a lighting control module,or the footwell module on that particular car (BMW 1 series wasn't it?).
If it's one of the very latest cars they have the contol module built into the headlights,so yes will have permanent live on them and a data signal (CAN-BUS) to tell them what to do.As far as I can remember,all the wires to the rear lights run forwards to the front of the car,exactly where that is I can't tell you I'm afraid.



#51 vwgtiking

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Posted 01 July 2020 - 03:44 PM

It's controlled by CAN-BUS on a separate network,the lighting wires themselves are 12 volts and don't carry CAN data and will go up to the front of the car where they're connected to a lighting control module,or the footwell module on that particular car (BMW 1 series wasn't it?).
If it's one of the very latest cars they have the contol module built into the headlights,so yes will have permanent live on them and a data signal (CAN-BUS) to tell them what to do.As far as I can remember,all the wires to the rear lights run forwards to the front of the car,exactly where that is I can't tell you I'm afraid.


3 series 2013.

Basically how you explained. Like I say Not many places to cut into these days





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