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VW Golf 1.8 GTi AUQ Engine Idle Issue


Best Answer superchickenn , 03 August 2020 - 10:05 AM

You’re right. I don’t think I’ll bother cleaning the throttle body but hadn’t considered a leak. Thing is I’m due new sparks anyway this year just checked and they were last changed July 2016!


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One of the first things id check is your PCV system, i checked my neighbours AUQ (octavia) when his idle was playing up...  the 2 - 1 pcv pipe had a massive ole in it...

 

for a few quid its easy to rule out... 1 meter of 19mm ID silicone pipe and a 19mm plastic T piece.

 

At this age the cars rubber hoses tend to let out 

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#1 Sean161

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Posted 02 August 2020 - 07:12 AM

I don't own a VAG Com nor do I know anyone who posses such a thing.

I'm pretty sure the answer is either, new sparks, new coil packs or cleaning the throttle body, but here goes.

Recently when the engine is at idle, mostly either just after warming up, for example when it's 90 degrees, then I stop at the lights, I can see the rev counter going manic, 600-1200 revs whilst no pressure on the accelerator.

I just wondered, after cleaning the throttle body is there any thing else I can check, or how do I pin point the problem without a VAG Com?




#2 northpole

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Posted 02 August 2020 - 07:26 AM

You don't you'll be just changing parts until you find it... cheapest solution would be to have the ecu readout by a garage than take it from there...

Alternatively look in the VCDS location topic and ask someone that is close to you to help you out...
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#3 ypvs

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Posted 02 August 2020 - 08:37 AM

On my 1.6 an uneven idle when hot was down to the EGR out of alignment. As above, it will need someone with VCDS to run run the adaption routines on both Throttle Body and EGR.

 

Any local independents VW specialists close by to do the job?



#4 adam-

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Posted 02 August 2020 - 10:43 AM

Typically that's an indication of a leak.  Pressure/smoke test.  I've never had a throttle body so unclean it won't idle, but everyone on the internet seems to know a mate who had a mate.


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#5 Sean161

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Posted 02 August 2020 - 10:48 AM

Typically that's an indication of a leak. Pressure/smoke test. I've never had a throttle body so unclean it won't idle, but everyone on the internet seems to know a mate who had a mate.


You’re right. I don’t think I’ll bother cleaning the throttle body but hadn’t considered a leak. Thing is I’m due new sparks anyway this year just checked and they were last changed July 2016!


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#6 superchickenn

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Posted 03 August 2020 - 10:05 AM   Best Answer

You’re right. I don’t think I’ll bother cleaning the throttle body but hadn’t considered a leak. Thing is I’m due new sparks anyway this year just checked and they were last changed July 2016!


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One of the first things id check is your PCV system, i checked my neighbours AUQ (octavia) when his idle was playing up...  the 2 - 1 pcv pipe had a massive ole in it...

 

for a few quid its easy to rule out... 1 meter of 19mm ID silicone pipe and a 19mm plastic T piece.

 

At this age the cars rubber hoses tend to let out 


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#7 Sean161

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Posted 03 August 2020 - 02:00 PM

One of the first things id check is your PCV system, i checked my neighbours AUQ (octavia) when his idle was playing up...  the 2 - 1 pcv pipe had a massive ole in it...

 

for a few quid its easy to rule out... 1 meter of 19mm ID silicone pipe and a 19mm plastic T piece.

 

At this age the cars rubber hoses tend to let out 

I don't know if quality of hoses vary over the different versions of the golf, but last time i checked i was very impressed with the condition of the hoses for a 17 year old car, no signs of any leaks.

Hoses aside, would old spark plugs cause the iratic revving alone? 



#8 ttg4l

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Posted 03 August 2020 - 02:20 PM

Hard to tell just by the age of the plugs. You need to take them out and inspect them.

 

The condition can vary depending on how it's been driven, what fuel has been used, the length of journeys, etc.

 

Usually a bad plug or coil would flag a code for a misfire. 



#9 northpole

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Posted 03 August 2020 - 02:20 PM

I don't know if quality of hoses vary over the different versions of the golf, but last time i checked i was very impressed with the condition of the hoses for a 17 year old car, no signs of any leaks.
Hoses aside, would old spark plugs cause the iratic revving alone?

They can but that means they have serious damage or are the wrong type...

#10 Sean161

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Posted 03 August 2020 - 02:25 PM

hmmm its a tough one, Anyone near me with a VAGCOM? Crosby, Merseyside?

The car does about 4000 miles a year ranging from driven 1 or 2 times a week, to long drives down to Suffolk every year.

Its not a daily runner, but I look after it tip top, I can safely say 99% of the car works fine (the exception is this little idling problem and the drivers door lock module which does work but you have to pull twice for some strange reason (another story)



#11 Sean161

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Posted 03 August 2020 - 02:53 PM

OK I will check the PCV where is the dam thing?!



#12 northpole

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Posted 03 August 2020 - 02:55 PM

Standing in front of the engine bay righthand-side on the front of the engine... just watch a oil catch can install video on your 1.8t you'll soon see the location.

#13 Sean161

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Posted 03 August 2020 - 04:28 PM

I’ve had a good fiddle with all the pipe work that I can fiddle with. I can’t feel any air movement at all. Thanks. I'll order a PCV and see if i can do it myself when I service it this month


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#14 Sean161

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Posted 03 August 2020 - 05:24 PM

lol, does anyone know where to get the PCV from or any recommendations (Links?)



#15 superchickenn

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Posted 04 August 2020 - 09:34 AM

Ebay 19mm ID silicone pipe.. 1 meter will be plenty 

also need a 19mm plastic T piece 

 

On another note, have you tired unplugging the MAF once it starts to hunt to see if it makes any difference?


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#16 Sean161

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Posted 04 August 2020 - 09:41 AM

Ebay 19mm ID silicone pipe.. 1 meter will be plenty

also need a 19mm plastic T piece

On another note, have you tired unplugging the MAF once it starts to hunt to see if it makes any difference?


Thanks mate, well to be honest I’m just playing around as have limited knowledge or anyone nearby to ask for help. I hate going garages as I like to solve the issue myself. No one round my way into this sort of thing they all have 20 reg cars up their drives lol


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#17 superchickenn

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Posted 04 August 2020 - 10:30 AM

Thanks mate, well to be honest I’m just playing around as have limited knowledge or anyone nearby to ask for help. I hate going garages as I like to solve the issue myself. No one round my way into this sort of thing they all have 20 reg cars up their drives lol


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The guys on this forum are always happy to help, also im happy to talk you through replacing the PCV lines.. 

 

if you are still having issues im staying in liverpool over night mid september so i can always plug my laptop in. 


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#18 Sean161

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Posted 04 August 2020 - 07:04 PM


Ok I understand a bit more now.

Under the Y shaped piece its completely rotten, (under my finger) then I followed the Y shaped piece back and then forwards to the front of the engine, by the dip stick.
I'll need to replace all these PCV hoses and found they are available as kits on eBay.

 

(I had to laugh at myself for posting that the hoses and pipes where pristine condition!!)

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#19 NooNoo

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Posted 04 August 2020 - 09:40 PM

Much of the PCV stuff I found on eBay to be very poor quality.

 

The valve I had wouldn't hold boost, just hopeless (there is a small valve in the T-piece under the inlet). The valve closes off under boost so it's not lost back to the intake. At idle, the valve opens and draws a measured amount of crank gas into the inlet for combustion. This keeps the crank clear of condensation and gathered blow by gases (which includes fuel). These gases contaminate the oil.

 

OEM is near £200 for the complete kit.

 

Delete it all. Silicone hoses and catch can. However, you lose positive crank case ventilation which is a very good thing at idle / low RPM.

 

So, if you do delete and potter about in town, make sure you change oil on a 6k mile interval. As it's the oil that suffers.

 

:Y:

 

At higher RPM the blow by gases are much larger causing 'self venting' of the crank via the hockey puck back into the intake tract. The cam area also vents by the same route, guessing the cam area gets slightly pressurised by valve seal leaks etc and the passing crank gas draws it out. Note the shape of the bit you are pointing at, it's by design, to draw gases out of the cam area.


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#20 Sean161

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Posted 08 August 2020 - 09:58 AM

Hey guys

Looks like this was the cause, well it definitely needed replacing as the pcv system was fully corroded (inside the rubber pipes).
I replaced the pcv with a kit I found on eBay. Yeah I’m up for replacing it again in a few years but this has lasted 17 years anyway!
Didn’t want to do the catch can thing - I understand why you would do it but I like it just standard.
So after replacing the pcv system and an oil change the car runs pretty much smoothly now.

One issue I fell into was, there is ‘U’ shaped clip that attaches the ‘L’ shaped plastic part to the engine (the final part) it’s broken. However the plastic tube does click into the engine. I’ll have to keep an eye on it. May need part number to order one if anyone knows it?

Thanks for your help guys it’s really satisfying doing this yourself.


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#21 NooNoo

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Posted 08 August 2020 - 03:09 PM

Yeah, that clip is awkward but essential IMHO.

After a few thousand miles I'm not sure the crank breather would still be where it should be!

:)

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#22 adam-

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Posted 08 August 2020 - 06:54 PM

037 121 142 A.


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#23 Sean161

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Posted 11 August 2020 - 11:21 AM

037 121 142 A.


Forgot to say thank for this!
Ordered one!


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