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Camshaft Sensor?


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#1 Evil

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Posted 04 April 2021 - 09:35 AM

Car is refusing to start, VCDS says..

 

1 Fault Found:
16727 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) 
            P0343 - 35-00 - Signal too High
Readiness: 0110 1101

 

We come from a GM background where any fault code could be an indication of any fault anywhere, pretty much..

 

The symptoms fit with a duff sensor, does the error??

 

We found 058905161B if anyone could confirm/deny the part number (and I need one yesterday, preferably genuine, or recommended brand)

 

Help us Obi Wan Kenobi, you're our only chance....  :blink:




#2 northpole

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Posted 04 April 2021 - 09:45 AM

Unlike GM the code means it is goosed... and yes get oem or Bosh... on my phone as I am busy so you'll have to use a parts catalogue to check the part number...
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#3 Evil

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Posted 04 April 2021 - 03:01 PM

Bosch one on click and collect from ecp Tuesday morning..

If a genuine one miraculously manifests between now and then I'll have that..

#4 Imagewerx

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Posted 05 April 2021 - 08:10 PM

Faulty cam sensors will normally mean it takes a long time to start,but will still start eventually as long as it gets the crank sensor signal.This could also be timing,or just faulty wiring.You can scope the output from the sensor before you fit the new one in case it's not needed.



#5 Evil

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Posted 05 April 2021 - 08:21 PM



Faulty cam sensors will normally mean it takes a long time to start,but will still start eventually as long as it gets the crank sensor signal.This could also be timing,or just faulty wiring.You can scope the output from the sensor before you fit the new one in case it's not needed.


It did (start after a while) 3 times... We quit trying to use it then because it was at home and I didn't want to kill the battery.

What should the output be and what does it mean if it's higher (or lower)??

I'll be up early enough that I can try and test it before the new sensor is ready for collection..

#6 Evil

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Posted 06 April 2021 - 10:42 AM

New sensor, fitted in ten minutes...
Problem solved.

Thanks chaps ca4298ab14d546b437ca02313b8bd4ec.jpg

#7 northpole

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Posted 06 April 2021 - 12:45 PM

told you it was goosed... 


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#8 Evil

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Posted 06 April 2021 - 01:05 PM

told you it was goosed...

You did. And it was. Thank you.

When the engine cover came off one of the coil packs looks like this...
Should I replace them? 6cf72910eefed98e6715a04e8d67787d.jpg

#9 northpole

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Posted 06 April 2021 - 01:46 PM

It's just missing a cap... can take that of any same engine car and put that on... it doesn't affect the workings of it, it's just cosmetics..
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#10 Evil

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Posted 07 April 2021 - 08:28 PM

EML came back on today for the cam sensor.

It's showing an intermittent fault.

Cleared it and it's not come back yet..

All wiring, plugs etc look 100% and not damaged.

Tried to find out voltages via vcds measuring blocksbut couldn't find the relevant group.

#11 Evil

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 08:31 AM

It's back on permanent...

Had the meknic take a quick look this morning when we picked the Vectra up and he reckons the timing is a gnats out..

Cambelt was done just before we bought it.

#12 adam-

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 09:21 AM

You get a correlation fault for timing.

 

Signal too high means it can't see it.  Check the wiring with a meter, not visually.


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#13 Evil

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 09:36 AM



You get a correlation fault for timing..

Little more info please?

(I don't know where my multimeter is)

If it couldn't see it, surely the car wouldn't start?

#14 adam-

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 10:22 AM

It's a separate fault code for timing errors.  It's Crank/Cam Correlation.  

http://wiki.ross-tec...00/P0016/000022

 

No, on a 1.8t it's just an extended crank until it fires (usually 3+ seconds from memory).  ECU just needs to see a full rotation from the crank to understand where the motor is.


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#15 Evil

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 10:24 AM

It's a separate fault code for timing errors. It's Crank/Cam Correlation.
http://wiki.ross-tec...00/P0016/000022

No, on a 1.8t it's just an extended crank until it fires (usually 3+ seconds from memory). ECU just needs to see a full rotation from the crank to understand where the motor is.

So you think this is likely a wiring issue?

#16 adam-

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 10:28 AM

Signal too high means the signal wire is being pulled to positive.  Check the harness with a multimeter.


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#17 Evil

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 10:46 AM

Signal too high means the signal wire is being pulled to positive. Check the harness with a multimeter.

Multimeter is awol at the moment

And you'll need to use simpler terms for me to understand.. I don't know what the signal wire is or what *pulled to positive* means.

#18 adam-

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 11:39 AM

It's a three wire sensor with power, ground and a signal.  A signal too high code means that the signal wire (the one that returns to the ECU) is being dragged to positive, or 12v.  If you unplug the sensor, you should get a 'signal too low' code.


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#19 Evil

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 11:59 AM

It's a three wire sensor with power, ground and a signal. A signal too high code means that the signal wire (the one that returns to the ECU) is being dragged to positive, or 12v. If you unplug the sensor, you should get a 'signal too low' code.

Gotcha... Thanks...

Any idea why this would happen?

VCDS said intermittent, a damaged wire or insulation?

If I can find my multimeter, one probe in the signal wire, where would I stick the other one?
And am I measuring for voltage or resistance?

Edited by Evil, 08 April 2021 - 12:00 PM.


#20 adam-

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 12:08 PM

Intermittant means it happens every so often, but it sounds like it's been advanced to permanent?

 

I'd need to check pinouts, but one is ground, one is power.  If the third is also power, that's your issue.  Could be a dead sensor out the box.  Unplug the sensor and see if you get a low code.


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#21 Evil

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 01:23 PM



Intermittant means it happens every so often, but it sounds like it's been advanced to permanent?

I'd need to check pinouts, but one is ground, one is power. If the third is also power, that's your issue. Could be a dead sensor out the box. Unplug the sensor and see if you get a low code.


New multimeter ordered...

Gonna have to wait until the wife's got a couple of days off

It's still coming up as intermittent, I'll check again tomorrow..

If I am getting power from 2 pin outs its a wiring fault?

Guessing a nightmare to fix?

#22 adam-

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 01:34 PM

Unplug the sensor and see if you get a low code.


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#23 Evil

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 02:26 PM

 

Unplug the sensor and see if you get a low code.

 

Unplugged it, fired it up (didn't realise it'd start right up with the sensor unplugged - it struggled a lot when the old sensor was on)..

 

16727 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) 
            P0343 - 35-00 - Signal too High
 
Switched it off, plugged the sensor back in, reset the codes, fired it up, went for a spin (about 5 miles)... no EML..
 
W the actual F.  :huh:


#24 northpole

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 03:09 PM

Check the wiring to it further down the line it might have rubbed through somewhere making a false contact... that would be the only explanation.
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#25 Evil

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 04:04 PM

Check the wiring to it further down the line it might have rubbed through somewhere making a false contact... that would be the only explanation.

 

That's quite an undertaking I think... iirc that run of wiring is underneath unmoveable crap...



#26 Evil

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 09:54 PM

In case I have to rewire, is there a resource to find out the colours and gauge of the wires?



#27 northpole

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Posted 09 April 2021 - 06:43 AM

yeah it's called elsawin ...but longstory short you should be able to see the colour codes on the side of the sensors cable connector... I did some looking around to see if this was a common skoda problem and basically all i could find was that the timing was out in most cases with signal too high after replacing the sensor, but also found that the Delphi branded camshaft sensors are prone to be DOA's so faulty while being brand new (looked on a few skoda specific  topics on different forums to verify)


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#28 Evil

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Posted 09 April 2021 - 06:46 AM

yeah it's called elsawin ...but longstory short you should be able to see the colour codes on the side of the sensors cable connector... I did some looking around to see if this was a common skoda problem and basically all i could find was that the timing was out in most cases with signal too high after replacing the sensor, but also found that the Delphi branded camshaft sensors are prone to be DOA's so faulty while being brand new (looked on a few skoda specific topics on different forums to verify)

So it could actually be timing?

I been googling this mofo for days, it's making me head hurt.

#29 northpole

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Posted 09 April 2021 - 06:53 AM

Yes timing a few teeth out can cause this problem.. according to other octavia1.8t vrs drivers ... but they also said check the wiring first at the sensors connector should be 5v 5v and ground has nothing if ground has resistance around 600ohm it means the sensor is messed up... and since you got a bosh one you should be fine with your sensor... as stated the problem ones seem to all come from the delphi brand.
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#30 Evil

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Posted 09 April 2021 - 06:56 AM

Yes timing a few teeth out can cause this problem.. according to other octavia1.8t vrs drivers ... but they also said check the wiring first at the sensors connector should be 5v 5v and ground has nothing if ground has resistance around 600ohm it means the sensor is messed up... and since you got a bosh one you should be fine with your sensor... as stated the problem ones seem to all come from the delphi brand.

Multimeter is, arriving today.. I'll unplug the sensor and check the pins..







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